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How to: ND4's fork upgrade mod.... 15 bucks, worlds better!

245K views 375 replies 100 participants last post by  Expoguy  
#1 · (Edited)
NOTE: This does not work on the 2nd gen groms as they have different fork caps.

If anyone needs these parts PM me, I can get them to you for ~15 bucks shipped.



Alright, as we all know the stock forks are super soft, bottom out stupid easy and dont have much travel.

So after looking at options from racetech, ohlins etc and looking at how the forks were built i was like... hmm i dont feel like dropping 300+ bucks for fork upgrades, but id like to do something about it. So i purchased some 20wt oil, but while that was coming in the mail i decided to take it one step further, Get me some more suspension travel.

On the grom front forks this is actually REALLY easy and can be done CHEAP, im talking 5 bucks in parts at the hardware store. Essentially i made the internal damper rod 1inch longer via a 1inch long steel spacer to move the top of the rod down one inch. This is not adding preload to the spring, but increasing overall travel (similar to the racetech fork upgrades and how they are 20mm longer than stock). Personally i like the soft springs as they provide a nice ride and i do a good amount of off roading as well... so this mod has a twofold benefit as i get ground clearance, more suspension travel etc.

Here are the stock top cap internals taken apart


And stock top cap internals stacked together as they come out. Note that the damper rod goes through the center and there is a lil cir clip on the rod that holds the big washer you see from sliding down the rod.


Below are the parts I used for the spacer. The row at the top are parts I bought at the hardware store. An M8 x 50mm long cap head bolt, a 1inch long spacer that just so happened to be the perfect size (same OD as the damper rod ~ 12mm), 2 small thin 1/2in ID rubber washers to take up some space, and a small OD M8 washer to hold the stock bottom out washer in place (this was the job of the small circlip previously)


Here is the spacer seated in the stock top cap


Here is the stock rubber bottom out bumper over the new spacer (2 thin rubber washers went between the top cap and stock rubber bumper). Note how there is a little extra of the spacer sticking out. The stock bottom out washer slides over this and gets held in place by the M8 washer purchased above)


And this is the final product that gets screwed back on the damper rod. Yes the silver M8 washer is much larger than the stock circlip used to hold the bottom out washer, but its not an issue, the inner diameter of the stock lower fork tube that this assembly goes down into is PLENTY big enough for this washer to clear. In essence the spacer and silver m8 washer are sandwiched between the stock top cap and the top of the stock damper rod.



While i was doing this mod, I also changed out the fork oil to 20wt maxima fork oil at the recommended height (YOU CAN NOT increase oil height by much at all!!!!, after some measurements and experimenting with oil height, stick with the stock 75mm of oil height. Going taller makes it to where there is no room for air when the fork is compressed... NOT GOOD!)



Overall impressions.... HOLLY SHIT, WORLDS better, I had to TRY to make it bottom out now, places where it would bottom out before didnt even come close.

For 15 bucks (10 for fork oil, 5 in parts from the hardware store) I could not be happier with the results!!

Feel free to ask questions.

FYI here are the quantities hillman part numbers and description if anyone wants

Quantity - part-number - description

2x - 59363-F - 1in Spacer (5/16ID - .469in OD - 1in Long)
4x - 3815-F - Neoprene washer (7/16ID - 1in OD)
2x - 43110-N - M8x50 1.25 pitch bolt
2x - 43893-E - Small M8 Washer
Here you go.
From left to right with quantity needed. 1. Steel spacer 2x, 2. Rubber washer 4x, 3. Longer bolts 2x, 4. Small OD m8 washer 2x.

These are all Hillman Fasteners brand part numbers.

View attachment 26630 View attachment 26631 View attachment 26632 View attachment 26633
Here are the part numbers used.


Thank you nd4spdbh!!! What a deal to change the uber poor performance of those stock forks! I didn't do the 20wt yet (couldn't wait:), but oh what a difference. Here's how I did the mod, hope I did it right:

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk


Decided to make a video of us doing this mod! What a huge difference!
 
#3 ·
It raises the front of the bike by 1 inch, exactly the same amount as the spacer added. This will increase rake a little. I think someone else did the measurements and its around 1-1.2*, this should make the bike a little more stable at speed at the sacrafice of every so slightly harder turn in. Neither of those are likely felt much.

After doing some more riding with the spacer setup and thicker oil, its worlds freaking better. The extra inch of uptravel actually allows the stock valving to work in the thicker oil SO MUCH BETTER. I use to bottom out hard on the bottom out washer at the top cap all the time with the original fork setup and all that is nearly gone now.
 
#5 ·
Stock oil weight is 5 or 10wt. Honestly i wouldnt go above 20 as then you might get into the realm of the suspension not being able to keep the tire on the ground properly (suspension moves too slow). 20wt with the extra fork height seems to work very well. That stated i am light, 160lbs.

Some have gone to 30wt however and have reported good results!

You can always give it a try, its 10 bucks for a quart of fork oil.
 
#7 ·
Great mod - need to stop by the hardware store I think. Looking at the stock exploded diagram, am I right that the damper rod just rests on the little tapered bolt in your first picture? I'm 6ft 200lbs and the bottom out and brake dive is getting pretty old, this looks like a perfect solution without having to drop massive money on springs.
 
#12 ·
Here is the stock rubber bottom out bumper over the new spacer (2 thin rubber washers went between the top cap and stock rubber bumper). Note how there is a little extra of the spacer sticking out. The stock bottom out washer slides over this and gets held in place by the M8 washer purchased above)
View attachment 24978

And this is the final product that gets screwed back on the damper rod. Yes the silver M8 washer is much larger than the stock circlip used to hold the bottom out washer, but its not an issue, the inner diameter of the stock lower fork tube that this assembly goes down into is PLENTY big enough for this washer to clear. In essence the spacer and silver m8 washer are sandwiched between the stock top cap and the top of the stock damper rod.

View attachment 24979
Am I understanding this correctly? It looks like your stock rubber bottom-out bumper is no longer able to absorb a bump (if you were to bottom out) because the spacer is taller than the bumper. You mentioned the RaceTech internals lengthen the rod by 20mm (0.787 inches) so maybe that's what those guys intended- lengthen the damper rod as far as they could while still taking advantage of the bumper in case of a serious bottoming-out.

I think it would it be possible to use a slightly shorter spacer or to put some washers UNDER the bumper rubber (to raise it up a bit more) and you would retain the functionality of the bumper.

Either way, you've certainly piqued my interest. I want to take mine apart now and take a closer look.
 
#13 ·
If you opened up the forks and looked at the inner tube it becomes super clear. The big washer slides over the spacer and can float up and down, The small silver washer i have put in place between the spacer and stock damper rod had a diameter thats smaller than the inner diameter of the lower fork tube. When the suspension comes up to bottom out the small silver washer goes inside of the lower fork tube (there is plenty of clearance). The top of the lower fork tube makes contact with the big washer and because the big washer can slide up and down on the spacer (the same way it could on the stock damper rod) the stock rubber bumper and two thin extra rubber washer can be compressed.
 
#14 ·
I guess you done this for both fork legs or is damping+compression controlled just on one side?
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've been waiting to do this for a while, but ofc couldn't find M8x50 socket head cap screws, only hex head. Thoughts on if this will work? Possible interference with the socket when tightening in the fork cap. I guess I could always turn the cap on the lathe and take out a bit of matl so the socket would fit.

I could also buy them from McMaster carr and have them tomorrow, but $5 a bolt is a little steep.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
Ive been waiting to do this for a while, but ofc couldnt find M8x50 socket head cap screws, only hex head. Thoughts on if this will work? Possible interference with the socket when tightening in the fork cap. I guess i could always turn the cap on the lathe and take out a bit of matl so the socket would fit.
I could also buy them from mcmaster carr and have them tomorrow, but $5 a bolt is a little steep.
I don't see why the hex heads would cause any issues. I went with the cap heads so I could possibly use the stock black beauty caps that latch into the center of the cap heads.... but that didn't end up working as the head on the ones I got were taller. Also, I figured why not as the hardware store I go to had them.


I would take a cap off a stock fork and inner rod and take that with you to the hardware store, then you will be able to see if it causes any issues. But so long as the copper crush washer that goes in between the head and cap itself can seat properly it doesnt matter.
 
#21 ·
Is the stock circlip/stopper ring still used mate?
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
The itty bitty lil clip that sits in the stock notch of the damper rod about an inch from the top? Nope, it is replaced by the small silver washer in the OP.

Dude, if you ever consider selling the parts used in this mod as a kit, I'd be interested.
Parts stores around here are for $hit...
I mean if you wanted me to I can stop by the hardware store where I got the parts and walk next door and pop em in a USPS small flat rate package for ya. Shoot me up with a PM.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Okay, so nd4spdbh hooked me up with the parts needed to do this mod ($9.00 parts and shipping) since the parts stores around here suck. I really didn't feel like yanking the forks out and swapping out the oil - so, I didn't. I figured I'd try it with the stock oil and worst case scenario, I'd have to rip it apart again. I unbolted the handlebars, jacked the front end up (jackstands and a 2x4 under the engine), and followed his mod. The whole process start to finish took about an hour.

The difference is utterly night and day, even without upgrading the oil. The bike feels so much more stable going into turns and even bouncing my weight onto the handlebars wouldn't make it bottom out. I took it out for about an hour and a half and I just couldn't get over how solid the front end feels now. Hands down, this is one of the best things (for the money) that I've done to the GROM since I got it.

Hugethanks to nd4spdbh for coming up with this amazing and inexpensive mod..!!!
 
#26 ·
I really didn't feel like yanking the forks out and swapping out the oil - so, I didn't. I figured I'd try it with the stock oil and worst case scenario, I'd have to rip it apart again. I unbolted the handlebars, jacked the front end up (jackstands and a 2x4 under the engine), and followed his mod. The whole process start to finish took about an hour.
So you swapped the fork bits without even taking the front wheel off?
 
#27 ·
Yeah, the forks stayed in. I jacked it up like seen below (from when I wrapped my forks), and just loosened and removed the fork caps. Once everything was loose, I just picked up on the front tire, raising the fork internals, and did the swap in hardware. I was surprised it worked out so well...

 
#30 ·
Shoot me a PM.

How about an itemized parts list with part numbers from where you got it? Maybe we could find these bits on Amazon or an online parts store. I really want to do this mod also. Thanks for sharing and kudos on the creativity and problem solving.

Next time im at the hardware store i can get "part numbers"
 
#33 ·
Bored today on my day off and remembered this so I figured I'd give it a shot, couldn't hurt my 2.5yr 22k mile old suspension. Picked up everything at ACE hardware thanks to the pic ND4 posted and got everything for $6.63

It now has an amazing amount of rebound, the forks fully extend back after dips or braking. I'm running fresh 10wt oil so it still moves kind of quick but the rebound alone was totally with the $7 and hour is spent installing everything.

Thanks again ND4
 
#38 ·
#34 ·
My parts in Canada didn't work exactly as well, but some grinding and shaping and it worked on the second round/test.

Haven't been able to test ride, but I leaned into it a bit until I over tightened one of the handle bar bolts so be careful (snapped) the stock bar clamp where the bolt attaches right next to the shocks ;(

Working on a work around but seems like a great cost effective mod!
 
#35 ·
having trouble sourcing the spacer in the uk. looks like i'm gonna have to buy a rod and cut it down to size!
 
#47 ·
Is there a how to on this? I've got the parts in and have a free afternoon coming up soon. Is it as involved as removing the forks or can you do this from the top of the fork tubes without having to remove the forks?

You could technically do it with only having to remove the handel bars and loosening the upper triple fork clamps, you could undo one cap at a time and add in the spacer hardware, To replace the fork oil you would need to remove the forks from the bike to turn them upside down to drain.

you DO NOT, have to pull the upper and lower fork apart, you do not have to remove the lower bracket from the lower fork leg as all of the new hardware goes in the top cap.


And yes it raises the bike by exactly 1inch (the lenght of the spacer) and probably increases rake by 1-1.2*