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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if anyone has used any of the yuminashi injectors..... specifically the 8 hole type b or 10 hole type b injectors.... Having a hard time getting a finbro recommended 6 hole A type from franco, and if i can get one what will work from yuminashi that would be awesome.
 

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had one took a crap a few weeks in, (jst ran crazy rich) used a pcx one that HR reccomended (the directd me to an amazon seller actually as they wre out of stock ) and has been good. still using it.
 

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Just wondering if anyone has used any of the yuminashi injectors..... specifically the 8 hole type b or 10 hole type b injectors.... Having a hard time getting a finbro recommended 6 hole A type from franco, and if i can get one what will work from yuminashi that would be awesome.
I have the 10 hole "16450-K26-001" and 12 hole Yuminashi F/I and I had bad luck with both of them, I had better luck with Finbro type B 6 hole and PC-150 F/I using Finbro larger I/D fuel line.

Don't waste your money on Yuminashi.

JDracer used the yuminashi on his Takegawa 181 4V BBK and had nothing but bad performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have the 10 hole "16450-K26-001" and 12 hole Yuminashi F/I and I had bad luck with both of them, I had better luck with Finbro type B 6 hole and PC-150 F/I using Finbro larger I/D fuel line.

Don't waste your money on Yuminashi.

JDracer used the yuminashi on his Takegawa 181 4V BBK and had nothing but bad performance.

Ugh thats what i was afraid of..... now i just gotta get a response back from franco about the 6 hole one he recommends.

Do you still have the 10 hole Yuminashi lying around?
 

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I've got the Yumi 164 kit. Put a hard 1k miles in 2 weeks. Runs flawlessly and the injector probably is a little bigger than u need but it works great if u can tune it properly with the stand alone. A piggyback isn't gonna be able to control and adjust such a large injector the way a standalone can that's why everyone doesn't have any luck w the Yumi kits. Id have to double check but at idle i had to lower it to around 1 MS for pulse width to idle at stoich. I'm pretty sure as of right now I'm the only one whose really cracked and figured the api standalone out fully in the US. Bike rips hard up to 12k and I've got the ignition maps spot on. Will be dynoing soon! ;)
 

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mine (yuinahi) worked great until the piston lost the second ringland due to a dfect, then all sorts othe rissues cropped up.

a Power Commander can handle a big injector no issues. i mean, they run these things on gsxr's and other liter plus bikes.


im dubious the injector you get with the yumiashi kit is actually genuine regardess of what the bag says. At this point i dont care but mn, what a PIA that whole situation was
 

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mine (yuinahi) worked great until the piston lost the second ringland due to a dfect, then all sorts othe rissues cropped up.

a Power Commander can handle a big injector no issues. i mean, they run these things on gsxr's and other liter plus bikes.


im dubious the injector you get with the yumiashi kit is actually genuine regardess of what the bag says. At this point i dont care but mn, what a PIA that whole situation was
with the knowlege from building and tuning cars in mind, when putting my yumi kit together i checked the ring gap which i think a lot of people fail to do. Good thing i did because there was literally no gap with ALL rings including the oil control rings and that maybe why your "failure" occured. Ring gap must also be adjusted accordingly to how the engine will be ran. For example when i built my engines that would be turbocharged i would run my ring gaps a little fatter than a normal build due to heat. If ring gap isnt adjusted properly than ring lands and piston damage will occur due to the ring expanding with no room. And your right power commanders do run on bigger bikes flawlessly but i can bet you those bigger bikes dont run power commanders when they are running a larger bore or something exotic. I still dont think people understand the concept of how piggy backs are very limited especially when you are bumping up cylinder bore and compression. A piggy back is still relying on the factory ecu and settings. (Heck i can bet nobody can tell me what kind of ignition timing a stock grom 125 is running at wide open throttle!) Its like saying im gonna use a honda civic ecu with a power commander to run a mustang 5.0 engine. I can explain all i want about it but people that do not understand wont see or believe what im saying and its fine with me cause its their motors not mine. The PCV is designed to run with a stock bored engine with basic bolt ons not control a totally differnt engine. . .
 

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get off your high horse i understand about ring gap and setting it up. I build all my own bike and car engines and have been doing so for the past 29 yrs.

my failure occurred because the piston was defective. It happens. and yes, they DO run power commanders when running something big and exotic, or they go with a mega-squirt or similar setup.... Regardless, its a125 single, its not rocket science. Good luck with your Kit, you'll need it..

BTW.., my 170 4V runs PERFECT on a PCV and WB2. Way more exotic/far from stock that your yuminashi kit.
 

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high horse? ok mr "29 years and counting" yet has no grasp of how tuning hardware works. My yuminashi kit must be a 1 in a million kit according to you or that your 29 years didnt help u figure it out. . . "they DO run power commanders when running something big and exotic, or they go with a mega-squirt or similar setup" SMH. . . mega squirt IS a stand alone. . . and no you will never see a turbo'd Busa running Power commander. . . lmfao. . . done here...
 

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I know it (regarding the mega squirts and similar units ), that's why i mentioned it. It's well documented the quality issues the yuminashi kits have had. Like i said, mine ran great until the hard parts started failing. But i have seen many road racing bikes running PC's.

What are you running for monitoring equipment on your yuminashi? please, do tell. enlighten us.
 

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Anyone got some pop corn

We need to just go outside and jump on our Grom and terrorize the neighborhood, ride on the sidewalk, cut across peoples lawns and wheeling down the interstate while carrying our favorite side arm at our waist.

Hey ride safe all on your grom, I'm going to the great Indian pow wow at Stanford University on my grom this weekend and enjoy life with the natives of this land.
 

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high horse? ok mr "29 years and counting" yet has no grasp of how tuning hardware works. My yuminashi kit must be a 1 in a million kit according to you or that your 29 years didnt help u figure it out. . . "they DO run power commanders when running something big and exotic, or they go with a mega-squirt or similar setup" SMH. . . mega squirt IS a stand alone. . . and no you will never see a turbo'd Busa running Power commander. . . lmfao. . . done here...
 

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I've got the new 10 hole injector and seemed to run fine cruising 20 miles. I did noticed hard acceleration went stupid rich so I have to tune that portion whenever stops raining.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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had same issue. replaced with this one:
[h=1]HONDA 16450-KZY-701 INJECTOR ASSY[/h]
still going strong
 

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Question, what year busa? what fuel manage system are you using? What turbo kit did you go with? Did you keep stock compression or went down in compression? What sprocket setup did you use for street riding or do you 1/4 mile race it. I'm into mountain sweeper riding and giving the Tesla cars and exotic cars in Silicon valley a run for their money on the Freeways around here.

I was told by a builder in LA if I bring my 99 busa down there and lay down $9,000 and some change that he will build my 99 engine with all new parts/ piston and such and a turbo and it will have 300+ HP at the rear wheel and that is why I ask all these questions about your busa just to make sure I'm getting my monies worth of Hardware and tuning and if it is legit on the price I will also add a carbon fiber front/rear rims and redo all my steering parts. I have serial number 21 that came in to the USA in 1999 and I could have gotten S/N 5 if I did not change my mind about the busa color.

I want to keep my busa since it is the first year for the busa and I want to make it faster than what it does and wheelie in any gear. It already comes up in 1 n 2 stock even with 80K miles on the ODM but I can hear cam chain slack hitting on the engine and that is why I want to do a tear down and turbo it at the same time. Thanks for any tips or information and GSX can also chime on on cost figure on turbo-in a 99 busa and what needs to be done.
 
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