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Ended up ordering the Yoshimura ST-2M cam.

I need to get my ECU reflashed again now. I probably need to step up to the aRacer Mini 5 soon, but good grief it is expensive when you add in the AF-1.

I hope I like it. Looks like you don’t really lose much at all on the bottom end and midrange, but gain quite a bit up top.
I ended up ordering the ST-1M today. Will be cool to compare notes once we get the cams installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
My Yoshimura ST-2M left Kanagawa, Tokyo, Japan on Thursday and arrived at my house Friday afternoon. DHL getting stuff done!

I love Webike. When it comes to Kitaco and Takegawa parts, they have everything. I spend a lot of money with American shops too, but Webike often has things that no one else has.

This thing is a work of art. I sent my ECU back to Cameron Jones for another reflash. He will receive it Monday. I hope to have it back towards the end of next week. In the meantime, I will get the cam installed.

I have changed a ton of parts recently. It will be fun to try everything out.

In the paperwork for the cam, I found the statement after the specification chart kind of funny.

“The values in the table above are designed values. It may differ slightly from the measured value.”

Well, maybe that is why the “Farkas Chart” differs so much from what all of the manufacturers claim.

It will be cool to compare notes. Cameron Jones felt like I would be really happy with the ST-2M, since the Grom is pretty much WFO all the time.
 

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My Yoshimura ST-2M left Kanagawa, Tokyo, Japan on Thursday and arrived at my house Friday afternoon. DHL getting stuff done!

I love Webike. When it comes to Kitaco and Takegawa parts, they have everything. I spend a lot of money with American shops too, but Webike often has things that no one else has.

This thing is a work of art. I sent my ECU back to Cameron Jones for another reflash. He will receive it Monday. I hope to have it back towards the end of next week. In the meantime, I will get the cam installed.

I have changed a ton of parts recently. It will be fun to try everything out.

In the paperwork for the cam, I found the statement after the specification chart kind of funny.

“The values in the table above are designed values. It may differ slightly from the measured value.”

Well, maybe that is why the “Farkas Chart” differs so much from what all of the manufacturers claim.

It will be cool to compare notes. Cameron Jones felt like I would be really happy with the ST-2M, since the Grom is pretty much WFO all the time.
When you mentioned webike I decided to check it out. Ended up canceling my order on the Yoshimura cam and ordering the kitaco HC piston with the kitaco type 1 cam. Hoping it’s a good combo.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok, now I’m really interested to hear how the high compression piston works out. I’ve had the Kitaco HC piston in my cart at Webike for quite some time. It is the one I would get. Kitaco parts are very nice.

The Grom has such low compression. David at DHM recently told me I would benefit from a higher compression piston.

I watch the exchange rate when ordering from Webike. The prices can swing substantially. You can get some good deals when ordering if you time it right. My Kitaco oil cooler was a great deal, plus I was able to get silver tappet covers which no one in America stocks. You can also build up Webike points to use toward a future purchase.

I have gotten burned by PayPal with a foreign transaction fee though. I’ve read that if you use a bank account instead of a credit card through PayPal, you can avoid the foreign transaction fee. I need to look at my bank account and see if that is true when I bought the cam.

You can usually get a little bit cheaper shipping than DHL, but the Japan Post/EMS option is currently shut down due to Corona Virus. It takes longer though.
 

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Yeah I was set on getting a HC piston but everybody is sold out. I went to buy the Yoshimura cam and the drowsport HC piston and over night the piston was no longer available. DHM has been out of stock for weeks so when I saw that the Kitaco HC was available and the cams were cheap I just went for it.

Ultimately I’m going to end up doing the 181 Neo so I figured I’d keep my current build as cheap as possible while still giving myself a small bump in performance. Getting the piston and cam for less than I was going to get the Yoshimura cam alone sounded like the way to go. Plus it gives another cam to add to the cam chart if that is still being done.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yeah, I’m at the end of my engine upgrades for a little while. I think, anyway! I’m going to run this cam and see what I think. My bike has spent too much time in pieces lately. It’s time to start riding, instead of wrenching.

As I have mentioned before, from here I could add a HC piston and possibly a larger valve head, or just do the Neo 181 kit. I think I’ll ride my newest setup for a bit and see what I think.

You know how it is though, you start getting bored with the power you have and then start thinking about how you can get more.

Either way, I’m going to have to swallow the bitter pill of purchasing an aRacer Mini 5 and AF1. I feel like at a certain point, a reflashed ECU isn’t going to be specific enough for my build. It’s just too bad the aRacer units costs $700+. If I knew someone locally with an AF1, then maybe I could borrow it to build a map, and only have to purchase the Mini 5 for now, but I’m a solo Gromer.
 

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When you mentioned webike I decided to check it out. Ended up canceling my order on the Yoshimura cam and ordering the kitaco HC piston with the kitaco type 1 cam. Hoping it’s a good combo.
From other people's feedback on my local board the type 1 cam is a really really low RPM cam, most switched to the type 2 after a while. Hope you'll like it.
 

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From other people's feedback on my local board the type 1 cam is a really really low RPM cam, most switched to the type 2 after a while. Hope you'll like it.
Thanks. Should be interesting. With the low rpm nature of the cam and my long tube intake I should be getting some real grunt out of the 125.

I made my decision based off of a post Kitaco made on Facebook concerning the difference between the cams. They claim it’s better for street riding than the type 2. If I end up not liking it at least it didn’t cost as much as the Yoshimura.

I think it’s going to be a good base for a stunt build which I’m leaning towards.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
From what I’ve read on this forum, both Kitaco cams have been described as pretty mild, especially compared to DCR/TB type cams. The Type 2 has pretty similar lift to the Yoshimura ST-1M, but the Yoshimura has more duration. At least according to the “Farkas Chart”.

I definitely think you won’t be giving anything up in the low to midrange. It should have more grunt as you say. I imagine it might be fun for ripping around town. It all depends on what your mission is.

I considered the Type 2 for a while. Seems like people are happy with it. The Kitaco cams are definitely priced more attractively than the Yoshimura offerings. I had some Webike Points to use, which made the ST-2M much more affordable.
 

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From what I’ve read on this forum, both Kitaco cams have been described as pretty mild, especially compared to DCR/TB type cams. The Type 2 has pretty similar lift to the Yoshimura ST-1M, but the Yoshimura has more duration. At least according to the “Farkas Chart”.

I definitely think you won’t be giving anything up in the low to midrange. It should have more grunt as you say. I imagine it might be fun for ripping around town. It all depends on what your mission is.

I considered the Type 2 for a while. Seems like people are happy with it. The Kitaco cams are definitely priced more attractively than the Yoshimura offerings. I had some Webike Points to use, which made the ST-2M much more affordable.
I envy you. Ive always had good luck with webike. But I placed an order and it said shipped on 4/11/20. But a month later and its still stuck in Yamato in japan. Sent plenty of emails but no answer

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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I envy you. Ive always had good luck with webike. But I placed an order and it said shipped on 4/11/20. But a month later and its still stuck in Yamato in japan. Sent plenty of emails but no answer

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
That’s weird. I placed my order Sunday, as of right now is departing the Cincinnati facility heading my way. Due to be delivered tomorrow.
 

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I kinda want to cancel my order and place another one. But i used my webike points for that order. I wonder if ill get them back or what

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
I envy you. Ive always had good luck with webike. But I placed an order and it said shipped on 4/11/20. But a month later and its still stuck in Yamato in japan. Sent plenty of emails but no answer

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I don’t know if you read the updates on their Facebook page or not. I don’t have a Facebook account, but I found the link on their homepage.


My order was delayed by a few days until “Golden Week Holidays” were over with. In other words they were completely shut down for the first week of May. After that was over with my order shipped immediately and went through Cincinnati. It arrived in one day. That was with DHL.

Now if you had something shipped Japan Post/EMS. That option may have serious delays. They shut down the Japan Post. I think in some instances, items had to be returned back to Webike from the shipper.

I believe they are operating with reduced staff maybe too, due to Corona Virus.

Yeah, that is a total bummer. This virus be messin’ up our Gromin’!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Finished up my airbox mods yesterday. Koso outer intake snorkel is installed, BMC panel filter installed, Koso connecting tube from airbox to throttle body installed and sealed, DHM aluminum adapter installed on throttle body.

I finished tightening up the Ohlins shock and played with the preload.

Then I installed the Yoshimura cam. Went really well. I am so slow at wrenching sometimes. I could never make a living at working on anything. I would starve to death. I’m too much of a perfectionist. I do excellent work, I’m just slow at it. I triple check everything and research anything I’m unsure of. I finished at 4:30am. Cleaned up my mess afterwards. I always manage to drag out a ridiculous amount of tools. Went to bed at 5:00am.

Removing the OTB Prototypes clear cam cover is a pain. It fits super tight. I finally figured out a safe way to do it without beating it up.

Installed fresh copper washers on the cam chain tensioner plunger bolt and on the plunger filler bolt. I put 4cc of oil in there first! Loctited the cam sprocket bolt after cleaning the threads with rubbing alcohol first. Everything was torqued to spec. Refilled engine with Motul 300v 10w-40. It’s green like Brawndo!

The valve adjustments were already about perfect, but I undid them to install Kitaco titanium tappet adjuster nuts. They weigh about 50% to 60% less than stock steel nuts. In theory it should help reduce valve float I believe. They are 8mm, instead of 9mm. I bought a three pack of tappet adjuster wrenches from Webike for about $20. Wow! Worth every penny. Valve adjustments will be easy now.

Yoshimura’s recommended valve clearances are .08-.12mm for both intake and exhaust. I went with the stock clearance of about .10mm/.004inches on the intake. Then went about .12mm/which is slightly tighter than .005inches on the exhaust. I’ll have to run the engine and see if I need to change anything.

I considered installing the decompression mechanism, but stopped myself. I really don’t have a good way to press the small bearing off the cam, so I was afraid I’d end up
banging the cam up. Yoshimura says it is not necessary with standard compression engines, but is recommended for high compression engines.

Now I’m just waiting to get my reflashed ECU back from Cameron, then maybe I can ride this bike again!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well, I got my reflashed ECU back from Cameron Jones on Wednesday. Installed it and finished putting the bike back together. Rolled the bike out on the driveway, hit the starter button.....it fired up and ran fantastic!

Idles perfectly, but definitely sounds like it has a more aggressive cam now. Sounds meaner.

I’m not talking about a bunch of clicking, clanky valve noise. There is none of that. That aspect sounds stock. I mean the Grom kind of has a noisy motor, but this is nothing like what some people describe with the TB cams. I’m guessing the Yoshimura cam having a larger base circle diameter contributes to this. I will check the valves again before too long.

So far, it runs great, but unfortunately the weather has been total crap. I’ve been unable to go out and really give it a proper test ride.

Riding it around the neighborhood, it feels like it lost nothing on the low and mid range, no joke, but at about 6000 to 7000 rpm, I can feel it wanting to really start pulling. Sadly, that is about as far as I got with it. My neighbors were already looking at me like I am some sort of punk. Hopefully this weekend I can go on a longer ride between storm systems.

The intake doesn’t sound any louder so far. We will see at high speed, if that holds true. The Koso intake snorkel and Koso connecting tube really open things up, but seem pretty quiet. Just what I wanted. The DHM adapter seems solid too.

I have changed so many variables on this round of upgrades, spanning a couple of months. The ASV shorty levers are a dream. Kitaco 60% stiffer clutch springs, feel like what should have come on the bike to begin with. Kitaco billet clutch lifter plate, Kitaco titanium tappet nuts, Kitaco adjustable shift link, Kitaco 1/2 pound lighter rear sprocket, Kitaco aluminum axle spacers, Kitaco cam chain tensioner button, Kitaco 3-row super oil cooler, Kitaco hose separators, Takegawa cam chain tensioner, Takegawa 4th crank support bearing, etc.

The Ohlins shock feels way more plush and properly sprung for my body weight. I am holding off on installing the Kepspeed swingarm until I can figure out a better chain slider for it.

I’ll report back on the Yoshimura cam, once I can take it out on a serious rip session.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Ok, I was finally able to take the bike out on a longer ride between storms.

I definitely did not lose anything on the low end or mid range, that I can perceive. Feels about the same. I’m running stock gearing. As the rpms climb past 6000 to 7000 the bike does pull harder. In fact, I need to be careful now, because the bike easily pulls all the way to my 10,000rpm rev limiter. I hit it a couple of times.

Top speed seems to be around 71mph now on flat ground, full tuck. It is still a Grom though, any hill, head wind, or sitting straight up and you will lose speed. No surprise there. Previously my top speed was 62-63mph, flat ground, full tuck.

Overall the noise levels seem about the same after the intake mods. Maybe a tad bit throatier. Is that a word? Sounds good. Love the sound.

Overall the bike just feels like it rips around better. It is definitely more fun to ride. No doubt. It put a smile on my face. Modding these bikes is so addictive. I didn’t think about the Ohlins shock one time on the ride. I’ll have to pay more attention to that next time. The ASV levers are stupid expensive, but wow do they make controlling the bike more enjoyable.

I will try to squeeze in some more riding later today or tomorrow if the weather permits. I have got to lube my chain and maybe add a tiny bit more oil. I think my valves are good to go for now. Probably need to recheck pretty soon as I stated previously.

One more variable I need to experiment with, is the baffle in my exhaust. The Anodizing Racing exhaust has a two piece baffle. It allows the bike to be reasonably quiet, but still sound like a real motorcycle and not a scooter.

I am running the baffle with the cap installed over the end (inside). I imagine removing the entire baffle or at least the cap off of the baffle could make a noticeable difference. That is something I will try soon.

The ECU is probably still learning at this point. Needs more miles, so things may continue to improve a little.

I will provide more updates as I ride the bike more. So far, I like this cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
I was able to get another ride in yesterday. First ride was about 10 miles. Second ride was about 40 miles.

In between rides I lubed the chain, added a touch of oil, and removed the cap from the two piece baffle.

At the start of the second ride, I started the bike, everything seemed normal, but when I revved up the motor, it bogged a little. I could get it to rev past the bog, but there was a noticeable bog. I revved it up, put it in gear, and took off. No more bog. It gave me no more trouble until near the end of the ride. I stopped by my parents house for about 30 minutes. When I restarted the bike, same thing. I bit of a bog. Again, it cleared up by the time I left their driveway.

Today, I cranked the bike. Same thing. A bit of a bog, then it is fine. I waited a while, tried it again, but let it warm up longer than I usually do. Revved it up. No bog.

Any ideas? Bike runs fantastic. Plug looks good. It rips. Noticeably faster. Very happy. Just wondering why it might bog now on startup.

The Öhlins Shock is plush. Can’t wait to get the Kepspeed swing arm installed soon. The bike felt no faster with the cap removed from the baffle, but was definitely louder. I reinstalled the cap. It is plenty loud to be heard, but will piss less people off.

Today, I realized my tire pressure was low. Like 22-23psi. I put them at 29psi. Maybe it will be a little faster! Probably not.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I rolled the Grom out on the driveway and started it up. This time I let it idle for two full minutes. I timed it. Then I revved the motor up. No bog at all.

Before the cam, intake work, and latest reflash, the bike seemed ok to rev up a little after 30 seconds of warmup. So far, after the latest mods it seems to need a longer warmup.

I‘m not sure what the explanation for this is. It’s just what I’ve observed. Other than that the bike runs great.
 
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