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Discussion Starter #82
What I do is leave the leaf in as I adjust and tighten the nuts, then check it again. It should meet a light to moderate resistence as you slide it out, but you shouldn't have to struggle. You should not be able to place the next largest size leaf in the space, and the next smaller size leafs will fit but be loose and meet little or no resistance. Sounds like you re doing it right though, but something is off if you lost power.
This has been my problem the whole time. I do this but if I make it tight enough for the next largest size to not fit at all, it is too tight. The gauge that it is supposed to be is hard to slide out when I make it tight enough for the next largest size to not fit at all. Then when I try riding it, it struggles to get up to speed and the dealer said it is set too tightly.

When I do it to where there is only "moderate" resistance, that means the next largest size CAN fit in it. Then I hear the tapping. The difference between the 2 is so small and I struggle to find the right compromise. I hope it works this time or I am paying the pros to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Good. I hope I didn't cause any damage on mine either. I only ran it for a few minutes each time after my adjustments and rode it up the street and back for a few minutes a couple times. Is that enough to cause damage on it if it is adjusted wrong? I sure hope not... My baby is just barely broken in!
 

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Are you using the correct measuring units, metric vs sae, for your feelers gauges? With the grom sizes it would lead to it being off slightly. Just a thought

Edit:
Never mind, saw you covered that a few days ago :thumbup:
 

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When doing my valve job or any mechanical job on any of my vehicle, car/truck/harley/hayabusa/etc,I have good set of tools both metric and standard size. I usually use Sears brand tools Craftsman because they seem to work great. I get the service manual for the vehicle and go over the how to section on doing the valve job/any job. I then lay out the tools I need for the job, including a extender magnet type tool and maybe a magnet bowl holder to keep my bolts and nuts that I removed from the engine, I might even have a couple of zip lock plastic bag and a magic marker and I would place the nuts and bolts in these zip lock plastic bag and label them where I took it off.

I usually have a big cardboard box that I break open and lay it out on my car port floor, first to keep my drive way clean by catching any oil/water/grease that might spill or drip on my driveway and second all my tools and such is lay out on the cardboard box since it would be EZ to see those tools.

Now if doing a valve job such as the Grom I would first remove the spark plug to make it EZ to rotate the pistons around to TDC since there is no compression on the cylinder and second I would stick a long ass Philip screw driver into the spark plug hole so I can physically see that I'm on TDC. I would rotate the cylinder and watch the handle of the screw drive and see if it goes up or down and that would give me a indication that I was at TDC compression stroke and I would also check the alignment of the T mark and the indicator mark at the inspection hole.

I would first check to see if I really do need a valve adjustment or not by doing a feeder gauge check of the exhaust and intake valve clearance.

Using the feeder gauge I would get the correct settings called out in the manual and adjust the intake and the exhaust valve to spec.
I would check to make sure that I'm close or right on by going up one setting to see if the feeder gauge does not slide under the adjustment clearance and go down one size and check that the feeder gauge does slide free. I would then lock down the nut snug and I would rotate the piston a couple of rotation until I got TDC and recheck the valve adjustment.

I hope this helps out some of the newbies, remember you never learn if you don't try or ask someone to show how to do it. Some humans do not have the patience to teach someone how to do things and sometimes some humans don't care to learn and rather have someone else fix things.
I like to learn everything about my vehicles because if I'm on a long ass trip/ride some where USA and my vehicle breaks down I can at lease try to figure out where the problem is and come to some type of conclusion if I can fix it or need help.

When I went to electronic school in the Navy one of the Navy instructor told me that I should never be a electronic technician because I was slow at learning and was getting low grades. I did not listen to him and I kept on pushing on and I became a ET on RADAR equipment and also communications equipment and also counter-measure equipment and when I got out of the Navy and got a civilian job I became one of the best electronic/computer tech and traveled all over the world as a government contractor working on computers/network switchers and such.

Never give up if you have the determination to learn. Everyone has a chance to learn and also to fail. Take the failures as a learning experience.

Good luck on your Grom.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
After the last adjustment, I finally got to ride it today. It got up to speed finally. I was thrown off a bit because it sounds different now since I just put in the KN filter R1100. So it made me second guess if it sounded as it was supposed to. No tapping though. After about 15 minutes of riding, when I got home, I swore I could hear a very faint tapping. Maybe a 1/10 scale. So I just took it to Honda to let the mechanic listen to it and the tapping of course wasn't there. He said it sounded just fine. Maybe after all these adjustments over the last week or so I am just being paranoid and forgot how it used to sound. Either way, I think I am done messing with it until I need to check again or until something changes a lot with performance/sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
After a week, it still sounds fine at idle. Revving it up sounds fine too. When riding at higher speeds, it seems a little raspy. I can't tell if this is due to the KN Air filter or the valves. Do any of you with the R1100 filter want to testify to how it sounds at 45-55 mph in 3rd or 4th? Did it seem just as smooth as before the filer mod? Mine feels a bit rougher now and I am paranoid about it haha. Is this normal?
 

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Let me clarify the clearances:

Intake: 0.10mm +/- 0.02mm (0.004 inches +/- 0.001 inch)
Exhaust: 0.17mm +/- 0.02mm (0.007 inches +/- 0.001 inch)

Oh, and one final tip for all of you out there on a pretty cheap
valve adjusting tool ... the Robertson Screw. Got this off the
Honda Rebel forum.

That's a drywall screw with a square drive indentation on the head.
Fits neatly onto the valve stem's square shank. Just screw the
Robertson into the end of a wooden dowel nice and deep and you
have the equivalent of Honda tool 07708-0030400 ... for a few cents.
Take a 9mm socket and weld a 6" bar over the end of the socket at the
square drive end ... as a handle. Then drill a hole through the bar
in line with the center bore of the socket ... so that there's a tunnel
completely through the socket and handle through which you can pass
the valve adjusting tool. That's your valve locking nut wrench.
 

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Okay, I was able to fab a perfect valve adjusting tool from a stainless steel Robertson screw and the square hole in the screw measures 1/8", which works out to a 3.175mm size. The valve stem adjuster is 3mm ... so the fit is nice and tight ... and the locknut is a 9mm hex head. I'll get some photos at work tomorrow for y'all. I mounted the screw inside a 3" length of steel brake line and it's brazed into it securely. Brazed a brass knurled disk onto the other end for the fingers to hold onto. The adjusting tool fits neatly inside the fabbed locknut wrench.

One item I need to do is to deepen the square cavity just a bit to let that valve stem square stud seat just a little deeper into the tool, but that isn't going to be a problem after I take a dental burr to it and gently remove some of the screw metal deeper inside the cavity. This is the bomb for adjusting the valves. Photos tomorrow!
Peace, out ....
 

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the amazon one is similar to mine except it was sold separately and not as a set. if i can find a link, i'll post it.
 

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What size do we need?
 

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you need the version with the 9mm wrench with the 3mm square.

you can get by using common alternatives, but this is what i use when adjusting valves: tappet wrench, tdc detector (can't always trust the markings), and feelers on a handle.
 

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Is there any way to buy one wrench instead of a $50 set?

Do you need to bend the valve gaping tool? Or do some come bent?
 
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