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Discussion Starter #61
Venemous, I was just looking for some feedback on getting this thing right because obviously I was having issues with that. The gauges felt snug and it still wasn't coming out right. Not to mention that airbox makes it damn near impossible to get in there with tools. I want to get a different air filter just for this reason alone.

Either way, I think I got it right this time because it sounds great now. Still concerned about that bolt but other than that, I got a good feel for this and have learned a lot thanks to those who commented on this thread.


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One other thing to check very carefully is that you don't have 2 feeler gauges stuck together. They stick together like new money.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Well, I just rode it finally after the new adjustment. It sounds just fine. Idles fine and sounds fine when I rev it up. It is slower though. It struggles to get to 50. As soon as you let off the throttle, the speed drops immediately too. Has anyone experienced this before after a valve adjustment? Too tight this time? Still too loose?
 

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Discussion Starter #66
From the Service Manual-

VALVE CLEARANCE

• Inspect and adjust the valve clearance while the engine is cold (below 35°C/95°F).
INSPECTION
Remove the bolts [1], valve adjusting hole caps and O-rings.
Remove the crankshaft hole cap and timing hole cap from the left crankcase cover.
Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the "T" mark [1] on the flywheel is aligned with the index notch [2] on the left crankcase cover.
Make sure that the piston is at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke.
This position can be obtained by confirming that there is slack in the rocker arms. If there is no slack, turn the crankshaft again until the correct position is obtained.
Check each valve clearance by inserting a feeler gauge [1] between the valve adjusting screw and valve stem.
VALVE CLEARANCE: IN: 0.10 ± 0.02 mm (0.004 ± 0.001 in) EX: 0.17 ± 0.02 mm (0.007 ± 0.001 in)
ADJUSTMENT
Adjust by loosening the lock nut and turning the adjusting screw until there is a slight drag on a feeler gauge.
TOOLS: Valve adjusting wrench
Lock nut wrench, 8 x 9
07708-0030400 or 07908-3290200 (U.S.A. only) 07708-0030100 Commercially available in the U.S.A.
Apply engine oil to the lock nut. Hold the adjusting screw and tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
TORQUE:9.0 N·m (0.9 kgf·m, 6.6 lbf·ft)
Recheck the valve clearance.
3-6dummyhead
MMAINTENANCE
Apply engine oil to a new crankshaft hole cap O-ring and timing hole cap O-ring, then install them to the caps. Install and tighten the crankshaft hole cap and timing hole cap to the specified torque.
TORQUE: Crankshaft hole cap 8.0 N·m (0.8 kgf·m, 5.9 lbf·ft) Timing hole cap 6.0 N·m (0.6 kgf·m, 4.4 lbf·ft)
Install the new O-ring into grooves of the valve adjusting hole caps.
Install the valve adjusting hole caps to the cylinder head and tighten the bolts.
 

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I looked everywhere next to the right center cap and I don't see a spot for this bolt.


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Take the right center cap off and the bolt goes there... And also for. the valve noise , I really don't want to say this but,,,,,maybe ur getting paranoid, and hearing normal engine noises and thinking its not normal .....not trying to be disrespectful... If the bike runs normal I would not sweat it to much....

braap
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Well, I just rode it finally after the new adjustment. It sounds just fine. Idles fine and sounds fine when I rev it up. It is slower though. It struggles to get to 50. As soon as you let off the throttle, the speed drops immediately too. Has anyone experienced this before after a valve adjustment? Too tight this time? Still too loose?
This is my latest post Grom1202-

I don't hear any bad noises anymore. Now I have legit loss of power. I think the intake valve may be too tight but I am not sure of this.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Called 2 dealers today and they both think the loss of power is due to the valves being too tight now. It is really a very fine adjustment and with that airbox in the way I am having trouble seeing what is going on and making a proper reading.

Because of that, I ordered a kn r1100 filter and will be removing that damn airbox.


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Discussion Starter #71
Maybe take it to a shop and just get it done right
And have a good running bike...

braap

I got this bike to be a ultra cheap way to commute to work and also mix in a little fun. $90 every 2500 miles for valve adjustments is not how I go about saving money. I may be struggling with this first valve adjustment but I am getting the hang of it and learning a lot while doing it. Once I get this down, it will be much easier going forward. And my bank account will be happy too.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I give up. 4 adjustments and now there is tapping again. Very faint, but it's there. I can't get this shit right. I am using the exact right measurements and every time there is tapping or it is too tight and wont get up to speed.
 

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The valves are too loose. All I can think of is that you are bumping into something with the leaf or inserting the leaf at an angle, or you have two leaves stuck together, or you are not checking the valves on the compression stroke, or you are not getting enough resistence with the leaf, or you are not at TDC. I would go back and review several of the YouTube videos where they are checking valves to see if your technique is right.

I think I mentioned taking the individual leaves out of the set and putting a slight bend an inch or so from the end so the leaves are not binding, at least on the top (intake) valve. You can get to the bottom valve with a straight leaf.

Try it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
The valves are too loose. All I can think of is that you are bumping into something with the leaf or inserting the leaf at an angle, or you have two leaves stuck together, or you are not checking the valves on the compression stroke, or you are not getting enough resistence with the leaf, or you are not at TDC. I would go back and review several of the YouTube videos where they are checking valves to see if your technique is right.

I think I mentioned taking the individual leaves out of the set and putting a slight bend an inch or so from the end so the leaves are not binding, at least on the top (intake) valve. You can get to the bottom valve with a straight leaf.

Try it again.
Thanks for the tips. I definitely do not have 2 leaves stuck together and I have removed the right ones from the set. I also am definitely on TDC on compression stroke because I am lining up the T with the dot and the tappets are moving a tiny bit which indicates compression stroke. I have scoured youtube for a video on this with the Grom and there are none as of yet. I even asked a few times on this thread for a vid and no one seems to have done one yet. After a weekend of doing this and 4 tries, I feel like I know what to do, I just can't seem to do it the right way as of yet.

What sucks is that everytime I get do it and start the engine, by the time I find out it is wrong, the engine is warm and I have to wait hours and hours again to try again. That makes this take FOREVER.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
What is a bit confusing to me is that in the other thread, the instructions said to make the gauge fit snug and to make it tight enough to where 2 sizes up wont fit. Well I made it that way so 2 sizes bigger wouldn't fit and it was too tight because the engine would struggle to get to 50 mph. That was the first time there was no tapping though. So I was really close. I just tried to loosen them up a tiny bit from that setting and now the tapping came back, verrrrrry faint tapping though. I think just on the exhaust valve but I can't be sure. I will just adjust the exhaust tomorrow and hope that works.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
at this point you should just give it up and take it to the dealership to get it done right.
I am about there. I tried it for a 5th and final time this morning. I just adjusted the exhaust valve a quarter turn tighter because I am pretty sure that was the one tapping. It worked. The tapping is gone. It sounds great but I can't do the riding test until I get my kn r1100 in. Right now I have the entire airbox removed. So I am stuck for another day or 2 or 3 while I wait to put my bike back together. When I get that installed, if it doesn't ride normal, then I will just take it into the dealer and move on from this nonsense.
 

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What I do is leave the leaf in as I adjust and tighten the nuts, then check it again. It should meet a light to moderate resistence as you slide it out, but you shouldn't have to struggle. You should not be able to place the next largest size leaf in the space, and the next smaller size leafs will fit but be loose and meet little or no resistance. Sounds like you re doing it right though, but something is off if you lost power.
 

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I tried to do my valves over the weekend and all I did was end up getting that pinging noise. I let it sit for two days and then took it to the dealership when they opened on Tuesday. Its cheaper and less time consuming for them to do it than you doing it and end up having to pay big $$$$ for repairs.
 
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