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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I picked up my Grom after its service and I had some parts fitted at the same time. I noticed the oil cooler was mounted from the bottom tappet with the hoses underneath and not the top (I bought a top mount kit...) but thought nothing of it.

I put around 30 - 40 miles on the bike for a test ride and everything felt ok, but the real problem for me was when I got home. The engine felt red hot, yet the oil cooler felt luke warm. Isn't it supposed to be the other way around?

:nerd:
 

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I have the kitaco oil cooler on my grom mounted to the upper tappet cover maybe the pump dose not have enough umph to pump oil in that configuration . Do what M in SC said take it apart ad flip it around .. On long rides my cooler is hot like it should be ...
 

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this is when i had the smaller cooler mounted low:

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this when i had it up top with the 1704v, later went to a bigger cooler in same spot.

note the fittings are on top of the cooler both applications.

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So I picked up my Grom after its service and I had some parts fitted at the same time. I noticed the oil cooler was mounted from the bottom tappet with the hoses underneath and not the top (I bought a top mount kit...) but thought nothing of it.

I put around 30 - 40 miles on the bike for a test ride and everything felt ok, but the real problem for me was when I got home. The engine felt red hot, yet the oil cooler felt luke warm. Isn't it supposed to be the other way around?

:nerd:
Pics of your setup?

Biggest thing is making sure that the oil lines are routed properly (filling from the top instead of the bottom) so the full cooler is utilized.


FYI even the stock oil pump has plenty of "oomph" to push oil up quite a ways (i mean it is a positive displacement pump...) My HUUUGE oil cooler has lines that go up above the backbone frame rail and she flows oil like a champ.
 

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So I picked up my Grom after its service and I had some parts fitted at the same time. I noticed the oil cooler was mounted from the bottom tappet with the hoses underneath and not the top (I bought a top mount kit...) but thought nothing of it.

Isn't it supposed to be the other way around?
Now that you know they installed it WRONG, dont do shit! You paid them for Services take it back and ask them to mount correctly, TOP MOUNT or some to all of your money Back for going thru the trouble to fix yourself... This will set the pace for them not to take advantage of you when they see you coming
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
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I tried flipping it around, and the heat did seem to be a bit more balanced between the engine and oil cooler, but I have a few more problems.

1. There is very little clearance to the front mudguard. The oil cooler is actually catching on my fender extender and rubbing on it with every little bump or even braking because of the suspension action. It's very luck I have it, otherwise I suspect the front tyre would have ripped the oil cooler right off!

2. I'm not convinced the oil cooler is going to catch much air directly behind the the front wheel / fender to perform properly.

3. The hoses have probably been trimmed to fit the wrong location and now they aren't long enough to be relocated to the top tappet cover as originally intended.

4. I have had the boxes returned without the manuals.

Argh!
 

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angle the bracket back? flip the bracket at the head upside down, and rotate it back towards the motor, then bolt the cooler on with the lines at top. this may solve it.

they work there but your belly pan might be in the way. you're just going to have to play with it to fit it. you're battling 3 aftermarket parts to work together, an oil cooler, fender extender and a belly pan.

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
After much faffing about, I managed to mount it to the top tappet cover.

It wasn't easy, there is literally zero clearance with the stock airbox. It's actually pressing onto it and access is very difficult. I couldn't quite figure out how to completely remove the airbox either, but removing the front cover gave me enough access to come up with a solution.

In the end I had to fit the rear bracket bolt to the tappet cover, and keep it loose so I can swivel the bracket to tighten the tappet cover bolts to the engine. That was a small headache because my allen keys were too long, so I used a 25mm long screwdriver/drill allen bit and put a spanner on it to tighten them up.

Once I did that, it was a matter of a zillion fractions of a turn to tighten the oil cooler to the bracket. It can be done!

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There is a downside. You can see the scuff marks where the radiator was rubbing up and down my fender extender when it was incorrectly mounted, and some of the fins have taken a beating, but it is done now. I only managed to lose 1 airbox screw in the process, result! Lessons have been learned.
 

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I realize you have had trials & tribulations remounting this oil cooler, But...

And you can take this with a grain of salt. Not trying to be a know it all.

While your cooler & fender are going to be better off with this configuration, Your top end is not. Especially in hot weather. After the air passes through the cooler & the temperature raising many degrees over ambient, now you are trying to cool the top end with heated air. Making your oil work overtime in trying to cool the motor.

There is an upside to this though. Because of the heated air going over the motor, in cooler weather your motor will be happier because it is more than likely to run at a higher temp than it would have otherwise with cooler air over it. Our motors can be too cool. They need to reach 180-210ish every ride to burn off contaminants present in the oil. Condensation (water) usually.
 

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I realize you have had trials & tribulations remounting this oil cooler, But...

And you can take this with a grain of salt. Not trying to be a know it all.

While your cooler & fender are going to be better off with this configuration, Your top end is not. Especially in hot weather. After the air passes through the cooler & the temperature raising many degrees over ambient, now you are trying to cool the top end with heated air. Making your oil work overtime in trying to cool the motor.

There is an upside to this though. Because of the heated air going over the motor, in cooler weather your motor will be happier because it is more than likely to run at a higher temp than it would have otherwise with cooler air over it. Our motors can be too cool. They need to reach 180-210ish every ride to burn off contaminants present in the oil. Condensation (water) usually.

Yup. agreed, you are pre-heating the air that cools the actual motor now. (and you area already limiting cooling with that belly pan)

Personally id get an aftermarket intake to get rid of the stock airbox and put the cooler above the head and in a much better airflow path. The way mine is setup the oil cooler is directly in the space below the headlight and above the front wheel. Airflow is awesome, and on the hottest of days ripping her hard the hot side (left) of the cooler can get so hot to the touch you cant put your finger on it for more than a half second, but right side is maybe luke warm.

 

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What mount is that ? I just ordered a Kitaco 3 row cooler to hook up to my Kitaco cylinder. I’d love to mount my cooler up out of the engines airflow.
 

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What mount is that ? I just ordered a Kitaco 3 row cooler to hook up to my Kitaco cylinder. I’d love to mount my cooler up out of the engines airflow.
well, without the airbox your options really open up.

The mount I custom made in like 20 minutes. I used the two airbox mounting points on the frame and made to L pieces with a 90* twist at the top out of some 3/4in wide x 1/8in mild steel. Then tied them into the fairing cross bar. Supports the oil cooler from the bottom (with rubber washers to isolate vibrations) and allows air to flow through it real good and air flow to the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I'm not too worried about the slightly warmer air being used to cool the engine - it will have likely a negligible impact on performance given as a lot of my cooling will come from the oil and the large amount of English summer rain! If the warm air was going directly into the cold air intake that would be a different matter entirely, but yes, in an ideal world, it would be better for everything to have it's own clear path, which brings me to my next point.

I am deliberately trying to avoid changing the stock airbox - I'll be keeping the stock exhaust to keep emissions down for the foreseeable future, and more air in will mean I need a higher capacity to spew gas out, then I'll be running too lean, which means I'd need a fuel controller, then I'd want other bits and bobs to make it go faster. It's a whole heap of mess I could really do without right now. I've laid the foundations for a BBK and if I'm lucky, it will happen, but my wife is already annoyed that the money I spent on the bike could have easily paid for her LASIK twice over!

My build did have another problem though - I guess I didn't quite tighten one of the oil cooler mounting bolts as much as I had thought, it has vibrated itself loose, and is lost to the ether so it is hanging on by the thread of the other which I doubt will last long alone. I'll either have to source another bolt, or give up on the oil cooler entirely. At this point, I'm inclined to go with the latter.
 

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you can keep your stock airbox, I did a DIY on my airbox system and it has been working great since 2014 since I did my first mod of the air box and then tried to improve on it and added the BMC washable air filter unit. I monitor both of my groms engine temp from the oil to the head to the cylinder and I can tell you with my DiY air box the oil temps stay with in 170-230F, the head stay with in 240-290F and the cylinder the same.

Here are my various stages of airbox mod from 2014 to 2018 where I made it into a shark mouth style to capture more cold air. I first tried a front cover mod by installing air plugs and later on in 2015 I found that cutting out the front cover and using it as a frame to keep in my BMC filter worked the best.
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after all my testing, modding over the years I found that this worked the best even in the rain.I upgraded the rear rubber tube with Koso 30mm rear tube which fit over a stock throttle body if you made a rubber seal on the stock throttle body for better seal. I had a Chimea system and sold it after I found that this was better for my engine. You can see in the pic the front cover was cut as a frame and I later cut the extra plastic closer to the screw base as to give the frame a flush look.
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The only problem with the shark mouth airbox it gets noisy when you open up the grom like a ducutti motorcycle sound. I like the airbox because it still supports the side plastic panels, and the only money you are spending is for the BMC air filter or filter of your choice and if you want a larger rear rubber hose for more air to the throttle body than a Koso 30mm rear rubber hose can be bought or DIY your own rubber hose such as a radiator hose.
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I'll either have to source another bolt, or give up on the oil cooler entirely. At this point, I'm inclined to go with the latter.
I'm not sure if you have a temp gauge but if you're signature is up to date and have basically no engine mods I'd ditch the cooler. I'm pretty sure you're overcooling and that it's taking a long time to get to operating temperatures, if you even ever get there. Or at least try to monitor temps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The oil cooler was added because of a lot of stop/start traffic and delays at roadworks. That and as preparation for the future upgrades. The engine does get plenty hot - I ride it up to the redline pretty much everywhere WOT (and I still get 140 MPG WTF!) so that was never really an issue for me. I updated my signature and removed the oil cooler. It is such a shame to waste the money but we live and learn.
 
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