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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need a little help here. From any who have installed the Pro-Taper Honda mine SE bars.
Since I have put these on the bike I am finding that the throttle sticks on occasion and
since I removed it the start button housing which also includes the throttle is not completely
closing on the horn button side. See photos attached...

I have assembled and disassembled this housing many times and I can not get it to close plus
I am still having the throttle stick issue.

Has anyone else experienced this?
Did you have to purchase New cables & if you did do you have any part numbers to share?

Any advice would be appreciated.

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Did you drill out the bars or grind down the little nub on the bracket?

I have these bars installed and I opted to grind vs drill.
Your controls should def be flush. Mine are. Also my throttle only sticks if the bars are turned ALL the way right. Even then it's very minimal. I haven't had time to figure it out yet.
 

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If you take the screws out of your switch housings and separate the 2 pieces gently ,you will see a silver band with 2 small screws ,if you remove them and take the silver strap out gently (because they have very small alignment pins molded in to the switch housing). You will notice there is a small nipple punched in the strap,grab a Dremel and smooth it out and then reassemble. That should do ya...10 minute job, good luck.
 
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That will probably take care of the throttle problem as well, it's probably sticking because you have the throttle tube misaligned and pinched it when you tightened the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, I ground down the bright metal tab flush that contoured under the bars and the throttle seems better but I still have the same gap.
Strange... Any suggestions??

Thanks for the replies...
Pete
 

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Take it back off the bar , hold it in your hands and try and close it , it should close up nice and clean.
 

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I think I may have got it, when you have the housing pinched together , try to twist the throttle .it may have rotated forward and when you tighten the screws it's pinching the throttle cam (that's the crescent shape that's molded into your throttle tube).
 

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Just switched out my bars and had this happen. For me, there is a screw right where the two pieces meet. That was hitting the backside for me. Take it apart again and mate up the side with the screw first. There's a little square piece of plastic that got caught on the screw, the extra pressure cause my throttle to be twisted and bind. This fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I ground down the metal tab, swiveled the tie wrap that holds the wires on the thin metal tab and it still will not close on the bars.
If I take the throttle assembly off and put it together you can hear it snap together and it is flush and tight. Once i put it back on the bars and
begin to tighten the 2 screws the tighter i make the screws the more it draws the assembly a part.

It's like the bars are too wind in diameter and holding the housing a part.

Open to your thoughts...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The sticking throttle has been fixed.
My issue now is that I can not get the throttle housing to close tight.
The same thing is happening in the photos that I attached in the opening thread.
That's my issue now.
 

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i had the same issue. I couldn't get my housing to close.
Then i realized the bars needed a hole drilled in them to recess that tab.
Yep. And it might be too late but it is much better to drill a locating hole in the bars for that tab then to grind down that tab. IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am past that since I cut the tab off but something is still holding it from closing correctly.
Why not remove the tab completely? What more does it do since it is no longer a locator for the controls?
Just looking for feedback..

I appreciate all the input.
 

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I am past that since I cut the tab off but something is still holding it from closing correctly.
Why not remove the tab completely? What more does it do since it is no longer a locator for the controls?
Just looking for feedback..

I appreciate all the input.
Because once you remove the tab the only thing keeping the switch housing from rotating around the bar is the tension/tightness of the screws into the plastic housing. Those screws should be tight enough to hold the two pieces together, not to clamp down on the bar, that is the job of the tab.
 
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