This came out when I drained the oil
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Dilitium Crystals!! Bwahaha!! (I actually have a parts drawer at work labeled Dilithium Crystals)... Holds spare batteries for our small manufacturing faclilty.
Not really concerned.. Just surprised!
The way I see it, a dealer or service center would not look at the used oil, usually funneled into a bigger container I would assume. Even if they did see it, they would not want to alarm the customer. Had I not done it myself, I would never have known. Tons of folks will never know what was swimming around inside their engines. :smile:
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426 Posts
Is the black piece hard soft? And how the hell did u pull that small ass metal piece out of oil. I seen sum post up metal shavings and this. I just dumped and watched to see if anything drained out in the oil pan. No screen but mine was just dark. But we should all change oil more often for this little guy. 7 bucks oil 1 crush washer is cheaper to do then a rebuild.
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253 Posts
What he said. Folks who put stupid expensive oil in their motor and then never change it aren't doing their motor any good. An excellent and inexpensive motorcycle oil is Shell Rotella. At $13 a gallon at WallyWorld you can afford to change the oil regularly which is what these little motors need especially during break-in.
Always remember that bikes are assembled by folks who go out for three beer lunches just like everyone else. Sometimes a burr or whatever will be missed during the machining process and end up breaking off when the motor is assembled or run for the first time. Add in the microscopic particles that come off of the gears and the clutch and you end up with that fine metalflake looking stuff in your oil drain pan.
You cannot change your oil enough. It's cheap insurance for long engine life.
I used to work on a transmission assembly line and worked on one of the first assembly stations after the tranny cases were put on the line. One case came to me that looked like it had been used as a trash can--it was FILTHY. I hit the line stop, told the group leader the problem and he went to get tools to replace the case on the stand. The foreman, an asshole from a high-volume auto plant in Michigan, came up to see what the problem was. I pointed out the problem and he reached up and restarted the line, saying "Don't worry about it--it'll get washed out in the test area."
Yup...
Always remember that bikes are assembled by folks who go out for three beer lunches just like everyone else. Sometimes a burr or whatever will be missed during the machining process and end up breaking off when the motor is assembled or run for the first time. Add in the microscopic particles that come off of the gears and the clutch and you end up with that fine metalflake looking stuff in your oil drain pan.
You cannot change your oil enough. It's cheap insurance for long engine life.
I used to work on a transmission assembly line and worked on one of the first assembly stations after the tranny cases were put on the line. One case came to me that looked like it had been used as a trash can--it was FILTHY. I hit the line stop, told the group leader the problem and he went to get tools to replace the case on the stand. The foreman, an asshole from a high-volume auto plant in Michigan, came up to see what the problem was. I pointed out the problem and he reached up and restarted the line, saying "Don't worry about it--it'll get washed out in the test area."
Yup...
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257 Posts
Agree!
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Not a bad idea. I have some paint style disposable filters that I could strain the next dump through. I could drain & strain into a clean container then pour back in a few times to see if more junk comes out.
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211 Posts
you could always send it off for an oil analysis like we do in aviation 
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If you're really paranoid about it you could clean the internal screen, assuming it has one like the old 50/70 motors. Not having my shop manual with me at the moment I don't know if it has one or not. Remember that these motors are built to withstand third-world conditions including rebuilds done on dirt street corners so a flake or two of aluminum ain't all that much to worry about. Continue to change your oil frequently and visually inspect what comes out and/or strain it through a coffee filter. While not a scientific analysis like mentioned above it's probably enough for a ground-going vehicle. A magnetic oil drain plug is always a good idea to catch the ferrous metals in the oil, too.
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648 Posts
When I changed my oil the first time at 63 miles I had pretty much the same thing, but instead of a dime, I had two nickels in the crankcase. Seriously, mine didn't have anything large in there but it was dark and had some shiny metal flakes and seemed to need changing. I went to full synthetic. I changed again at 283 (still pretty dirty) and again at 580 miles and the oil looked a lot better. I will go to 2500 mi. now. Break-in is complete with over 1200 miles on my baby.
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648 Posts
No, no. That would not happen. For one thing, they wouldn't know if you changed the oil. And for another thing, you can't change it too often, only too little. Really though, you will be fine going with 600 miles if you didn't do a hard break-in. Those of us who change early are mostly doing hard break-ins which stresses the oil much faster and we don't know for sure that we needed to change it sooner either. It's only if you don't do the 600 mile service and then have engine problems that they would question the warranty. I am so certain that this motorcycle is solid that I didn't even record anything...never do. The only way I would worry is if the engine sounded bad or acted bad and the dealer would know about that sooner than 600 miles. They just build engines better today. I have never even heard of a catastrophic failure of an engine in recent years outside of the race track.
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