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Dude, are those on wrong? It looks like you need to swap them, then spin the mirror 180 degrees on the angled post. They look kind of tall. If what I am saying is possible they will probably not be as tall and they will be slightly wider, which is not a bad thing.

I use genuine Honda CB1000 mirrors. They have a similar shape to those. I’m not beating up on your mirrors, I’ve seen those before on Amazon, but I think those have a similar shape to mine when installed like I’m describing.

I think I remember reading a review on Amazon where someone received a set that were assembled incorrectly. I’m not sure if flipping them like I described above is possible or if yours are supposed to be that way. Let us know. I’m curious.
 

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The stock Grom mirrors were not wide enough to see past my body. The CB1000 mirrors are a bit wider. About perfect.

You have to order the right year of CB1000 mirrors otherwise you will overpay. Some years are like $60 each, while I think I paid about $30 each for the 2012 model year. They appear to be the same mirror.

Another tip when ordering the CB1000 mirrors, is to order the rubber boots that cover the mounting nuts. You can use the stock Grom rubber boots, but they are taller than necessary. The CB1000 boots are shorter and fit perfect. The Grom boot has a hollow spot inside at the top when used with the CB1000 mirror.
 

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I remember Cameron Jones saying once that the wind drag from mirrors on the Grom was pretty substantial.

Wife: Why did you spend money on a Big Bore Kit?

Me: Compensating for drag. It’s a safety issue, sweetheart.
 
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Yep, that looks good. Much better.
 

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What exhaust is that?
 

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I love my modified airbox. Much more quiet than those aftermarket intakes. I feel that the airflow is pretty darn good. I’m sure it gives up a little power over something like a Dinger built. I’m totally cool with that considering how reasonable the sound levels are. The Koso outer snorkel is massive and the connecting tube is pretty big too.

One thing to keep in mind if you are using the DHM adapter to adapt to the stock throttle body, is to be sure to not over tighten the set screw. If you keep cranking the set screw down it starts to lift the DHM adapter up off of the throttle body itself. It leaves a gap between the adapter and the throttle body, potentially creating an air leak. That is not good.

Just be sure to snug it up. Once you tighten the outer clamp on the Koso connecting tube, it will secure everything in place.

The DHM adapter is a nice piece, but it is solving an awkward problem. The throttle body has a groove machined into it near the top. I wasn’t in love with the Koso connecting tube not having a flat surface to seal to when you tighten the clamp.

I am surprised no one ever asked me about the little orange ring in the photos I posted. It is the plastic safety ring under the lid on a 20oz bottle of Gatorade. I sanded it down to the proper height, then cut about 1/4 inch section out of it, making it C-shaped. The open part of the “C” is positioned where the set screw goes. I was then able to press it into the machined groove, filling in the gap. The Koso connecting tube then has a flat surface to clamp to all the way around the throttle body barrel.

I posted photos of mine in this thread:
 
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Would you mind linking the starter you bought. I've been in the market for an upgraded starter since I went 186 as well. You can get some pretty good speed out with different gears. 83mph for me so far with 17/32t gears
I noticed that Koso offers a starter now too. I think is costs like $200 though. Yikes. I would probably go with the Kitaco.
 

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i put new rims with tires on. and failed bleeding my front blue core ss brake line.
spent 300 for tires rims takegawa 181 s cam fcon2 and stock head
View attachment 87897
Do you know if those rims are any lighter than stock?
 

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Your intake valve was a little loose at .005 with the stock cam.

The ticking is normal. Aftermarket cams are typically noisier. Mine ticks some too. I don’t even notice anymore. It doesn’t sound like anything bad.

I’m running my valve clearances at .10mmIN/.12mmEX for the ST-2M cam. If I remember correctly, that translates to about .004IN and a little less than .005EX.

Yoshimura recommends .08mm-.12mm for both intake and exhaust for the ST-2M. If I cranked them both down to .08mm, I imagine some of the ticking might disappear, but it is probably better to run them a little more loose.

What did you set yours at?

I bought a set of valve wrenches from Webike. Agreed, they are well worth the money.

That sounds a lot like my cam. Low end is very similar to stock. As I’ve said before I feel like it lost nothing on the low end. Around 6000rpms it definitely starts having more oomph. At 9000 rpms you can really hear it start to scream. It then hits the 10,000rpm rev limiter real quick.

Hopefully, you will feel something more substantial when you get your BBK and head installed.

Ultimately, I think it is going to take an increase in displacement to get the kind of performance gains I’m looking for. I mean, if I left it just how it is, it is still a fun bike, but there are so many situations were a BBK would benefit the bike.
 

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That sounds all good. It will be neat to compare the temps once the BBK is installed.

A trick I use to remove the upper tappet cover for adjustments, is to first remove the front airbox lid and filter, then I can reach the front bolt securing the oil cooler mount. I can then pivot the oil cooler to the side and reach the other tappet cover screw.

I run two Kitaco hose separators. They work great.
 

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Interesting that you posted this. I was just watching videos of Hindle and Brock’s exhausts last night. Both with and without the dB killer.

I was also looking at the aRacer Mini 5 too. I’m at the point where I need the Mini 5/AF1 moving forward. Reflashing the ECU isn’t going to cut it anymore. If you could put the bike on Cameron’s dyno every time you made a change, it would be different, but that is not possible.

As your setup becomes more unique, the chances he will have an exact tune are increasingly unlikely.

I will pick up a stainless Hindle With carbon end cap. I like how the Brock’s Alien Head 2 is polished though. I think I can probably find a better price on the Hindle. The dB killer doesn’t sound all that effective, in videos anyway. Need to hear it in person, with and without.
 
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Installed a gcraft oil catch can plus gf vented cam here’s my setup bottom hose to oil cap return, 1 to gf vented cam, 1 to air intake and, 1 to crankcase breather. What do you guys think of this setup?
You removed your Endurance can? Were you having problems with not enough ventilation?
 

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The Duke 390 does sound like it will be a good choice for what you want. I don’t want a really big or really powerful bike. I’ve been looking for something on the lighter side that can be thrown around pretty easily. The Duke 390 has been on my short list for a while. The price is hard to beat. I think I’m going to wait though, and see what the new Duke 490 is like.

My fear is that it will be heavy and lose some of the flickability that the 390 has. If KTM could keep the weight low, the 490 might be something I would consider.

I really like the Grom and I plan to keep it, but it is definitely a money pit.
 

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I am currently using a cheap flat seat off of amazon, @Hairless is still on the stock seat. We both agree the stock seat is more comfortable than mine, but at least mine is flat. He used an airhawk seat pad for this trip. I have a seat concepts flat seat kit ordered.
My friend complains every ride about the stock seat. It doesn’t bother me at all.

On bicycles, it is all about shape, not padding. Unfortunately, it is difficult for new cyclists to understand that concept. They think some thickly padded saddle is automatically going to be the most comfortable. Not true. Most of the comfort comes from how/where your two sit bones contact the saddle. I used to do 100+ mile rides on a Selle Italia C64 Carbon Saddle. I mean like ALL carbon, no padding at all. That SLR shape works for my build.

The Grom seat is a sofa by comparison to a bicycle saddle. I’m not sure what makes one motorcycle seat so much worse or better than another, but there is definitely something to it. I’m pretty thin. Somehow the stock seat works for me.

On 220+ mile dirt bike rides in Colorado, I’ve worn padded bicycle bib-shorts under my motocross gear as a base layer. It seemed to increase comfort.
 
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