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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. Does anyone know if the Takegawa clutch cover has flow and return on the lower inner and outer takeoff ports that are used for an external oil cooler? I fitted a high up oil cooler on its side at an angle and want to fit a none return valve on the flow side to stop the oil draining out of the cooler when motor is off. No markings on the cover to say which is which.
Thanks
 

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Going by the way the thermostat mounts, outlet should be the port closest to crankcase, but I would double check with the manual.
 

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Ok. Thanks for that. Have the thermostat aswell but neither have manuals only a piece of paper in Japanese. So will go with what u reckon. Ta
 

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This may seem like a dumb idea, but.....why not just connect a length of hose to both ports, briefly turn-over the engine, and see how the oil squirts out?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Finally got round to trying that,but oil came out of both at same Time! So none the wiser. Probably will just try switching pipes around till oil flows through the cooler. Could be least of my troubles as have fitted Neo 181 bbk,yoshi full exhaust takegawa throttle body kitaco 5 speed gears etc. PWCV WB2 kindly set up by Hard racing. Fired it up first time ever yesterday. Lots of compression so needed fully charge battery,started wouldn't idle slowly only 2-3000 revs but reckon I can maybe fix this. Even with WB2 being set to 13AF,gauge showing lean at that rev like 17-18 AF and just a couple of minutes idling fast the exhaust header was glowing RED HOT is this because AF way out or valve gaps not correct or I got a tooth wrong when putting it back together and timing Out? To make it that Hot? . Anyone had anything Simular? Will go through stuff in morning and hook up computer to bike aswell. But hoping all the knowledgeable people on this forum can help incase things don't go well... might post problems in different posts than this clutch cover one. Haven't found the same sort of info in the uk so thanks for the help.
Darren
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Checked timing and valves, all good there. Reset all ecu procedures again like the hard racing video says. And only thing different was to turn in the air screw to half a turn out which made the AF richer which I wanted and altered the throttle stop to make it idle slower, and plugged pwcv into computer and it started a treat ran OK at 10-11 AF till warm then 12.5-13.5 AF that's when set the throttle stop to get nice idle speed. Exhaust normal colour so all good so far. Haven't riden it yet been raining cats and dogs all day so hopefully tomorrow. Only things different were that I had to change battery over and fiddled with air screw yesterday without then reseting ecu again, so was that why it wouldn't run properly or was it that I turned the air screw in to half a turn out from fully seated that made all the change for the Good!? Oil cooler got oil to it too but not sure if flowing round it properly yet will know more once riden it.
One question, if throttle steady up to say 5-6000 revs then back down AF gauge holds steady around the 13 AF mark no popping from tail pipe (good) but if I snap rev it the gauge can climb to say 16-18 AF then back and maybe a little popping from tail pipe on deceleration. Is this Normal??
Bike sounds very very slightly a little ticky and rattley from around the valve cover area and cam side but just can't remember if the old original set up was quiet or not, being overly cautious as don't want it going Bang!! Hoping that it's normal aswell as every thing seams to be set Right!
 

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revving it at idle to check AFR isnt really a good representation of what it will be when riding, so I wouldnt even take that into account. When first starting out, youre going to have spots all over the board. Some rich, Some lean. Some so rich you cant even ride that. Just give it a bit of time to tune and if its lean, dont run it hard there.
 

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Finally got round to trying that,but oil came out of both at same Time! So none the wiser. Probably will just try switching pipes around till oil flows through the cooler.....
I have found myself thinking about this a bit more, and something just doesn't seem right to me. If both ports on the clutch send oil *out* under pressure when the oil pump is turning, how in the world can anyone be getting decent flow through their oil coolers? Assuming that this is indeed how the outlets behave, this just doesn't seem to make sense.....ideas?
 

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Does the takegawa come with a bypass or anything you have to put between the 2 oil ports? If not, both may very well be highside. Look at Takegawa's oil cooler and 4v head, doesnt it have it configured to feed into the valve cover? (or something like that)
 

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Does the takegawa come with a bypass or anything you have to put between the 2 oil ports? If not, both may very well be highside. Look at Takegawa's oil cooler and 4v head, doesnt it have it configured to feed into the valve cover? (or something like that)
Takegawa's clutch covers only need a bypass if you want to run an oil cooler without the thermostat. He mentions he has the thermostat, so I hope it is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi again. Well I have managed to run the engine now and even had my first ride since the rebuild! Yep have the thermostat fitted and so its seams that when engine got to around 80 degrees C the oil cooler then started to warm up so must have the hoses round the right way as there is a one way check valve on one of the lines and oil would flow all the time before the thermostat kicked in to let the oil by in the other line if I had them the wrong way round. And when the engine cooled down below 80 odd degrees C the oil cooler went cold as thermostat must have kicked in again and shut off the oil flow. Not tried it with out the check valve or in hotter weather yet but so far think it is working the correct way with what I believe is nearest crankcase on the clutch cover is flow DSC_0045_25.JPG DSC_0103_17.JPG DSC_0102_17.JPG DSC_0104_16.JPG DSC_0108_16.JPG DSC_0115_15.JPG outer is return. Will try and upload a couple of pictures of what I have been on about....
 

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After translating the included instructions using google translate's camera on my iphone, I have deduced the following:

1) If do not want to install an oil cooler, or choose to run an oil cooler off the head, you leave the Thermostat hole empty and just use the cover that came with the kit.
2) If you want to install an oil cooler to the oil ports on the Takegawa clutch cover you will need either the Takegawa Thermostat or the Takegawa Oil Hole Plug.

Do not install an oil cooler to the oil ports without the use of the thermostat or oil hole plug!

Note: Takegawa makes two different Oil Hole Plugs. I bring this up, because the Takegawa Oil Cooler kit for the special clutch cover comes with an oil hole plug, but the kit pictured on Webikes website shows the wrong plug. They may be simply using the wrong picture as it is the same part number as is on the Takegawa website, which shows the correct oil hole plug. If you purchase the kit from webike, make sure you confirm the oil hole plug is the correct one. The part number provided below is the correct oil hole plug.

Also, if you plan to purchase the Takegawa Oil Catch Can, make sure you buy the Takegawa Oil Fill Plug Swivel Breather as the oil fill port on the Takegawa Clutch cover is a larger diameter than the oem clutch cover oil fill port.

I have decided not to run the Thermostat as the engine running cold should not be an issue. I believe that the thermostat creates one more potential fail point, and that I don't think it will flow as well as the Oil Hole Plug (just a feeling, have not tested this theory). I plan on buying the Takegawa Oil cooler, 4AN hose used in conjuction with the fittings included in the kit($24 for 15 feet on amazon), and fabricating my own frame mount bracket using some L-brackets. The purpose of the replacement 4AN hose is so I have enough length to properly mount the oil cooler up high by the frame with the ports in the correct orientation (on top of the oil cooler). I am sure you can buy the same universal oil cooler, 2 x 10mm to 4AN banjos w/ bolts, 2x 12mm to 4AN banjos w/ bolts, 4x 4AN hose ends, 4AN braided hose, Takegawa Oil Hole Plug, and make a bracket for the oil cooler. I couldn't imagine the out the door cost difference will be much as AN fittings can get pricey, plus shipping from various vendors. To me it just makes sense to buy the whole kit and some extra hose on Amazon.

I hope this helps those with or planning to purchase the Takegawa Clutch cover, as I was unable to get many answers from several vendors. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out.

Takegawa Thermostat: 02-01-5052
Takegawa Oil Hole Plug: 00-02-0391
Takegawa Oil Cooler: 07-07-0233
Takegawa Oil Catch Can: 07-05-0026
Takegawa Oil Fill Plug Swivel Breather: 07-06-0001
 
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