Honda Grom banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Figured I'd start my build log post basic mods, intake/exhaust/tuner + bars, fender eliminator, etc.

Picked up my Red 2018 Non-ABS SF on 5/1/18, paid $3,899.00 out the door.

The bike currently has 1,223 miles on it, and I've started building it up for the eventual super 125 kit.

Mods as of 8/15/18:
Pro Taper klx110 bars w/ pillow top grips
Neverlandback mirrors
JT 14t front sprocket
ZoOM Loop Full Exhaust
Chimera intake w/ K&N RC-1060
Blaster-X integrated tail light
LED Relay
Tst flush mount front signals
Fork You 3M Satin Dark Gray fork wrap
Dobeck Performance EJK (meh)
Vagabond Motorsports cargo rack / fender delete
Pelican 1400 hard case
Kitaco clutch cover
OTB V2 Chain tensioners
Maxxis M6024 front 120/70-12 and rear 130/70-12
Wolo 419 air horn
RAM X-grip phone holder


In the mail:
Aracer RCmini 5 ecu
Aracer AF1 Wideband module
Aracer DG1 digital gauge
Aracer 4-1 splitter
O2 bung
12 O'clocklabs speedo healer

I'll update this as my bank account slowly gets smaller.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
Go man go!!

Great build!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Not bad, exactly 10cm from the end of the elbow, and the sensor is just over 1cm into the pipe, just as the AF1 documentation specifies. Now to play with this aracer app...


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Sick build! Where did you mount all your aracer components and tuck the wire?
Rcmini5 is tucked right where the stock ecu went, AF1 and associated connectors are taking up the whole under seat area, blink module is stuck to the inner fender with 3M VHB, and the 4-1 harness and excess wiring is tucked in the space between the gas tank and frame.

After removing the charcoal canister there was a bunch of space, more than enough for the cables I needed to hide. I also have my Wolo 519 air horn on the left side of the bike, so there's even less room. But still, everything fits. Just have to figure out the best way to mount the DG1, and it is currently stuck in between the bar mounts on the klx110 bars. Not the best, but it'll do for now.

Edit: I should learn to read more clearly...

Flashed the first map at first, and noticed the tachometer wasn't displaying anything, a sign that the ecu is flashed for an OG Grom.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Super 125 kit arrived, just waiting on a few more engine staples and the new cylinder to arrive.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Nice dude! What’s the main difference why some of the dudes do the super 125 kit and why some do the big bore ? Obviously different displacement but if shelling out the coin, why not go big bore ?

Sorry if it’s a ignorant question.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Nice dude! What’s the main difference why some of the dudes do the super 125 kit and why some do the big bore ? Obviously different displacement but if shelling out the coin, why not go big bore ?

Sorry if it’s a ignorant question.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd rather keep the stock bore and maintain as much of the Honda reliability as I can. I've heard good things about about RMW kits, so I figured if I was going to spend the coin, may as well try to keep the problems to a minimum. I know lots of riders have super quick, well tuned machines running big bore kits and or 4v heads, but it seems more of a gamble than the super 125 kit.

I decided to keep the Grom on the road for the rest of the season and start once winter hits, so next spring hopefully I'll have some comments.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,366 Posts
I will answer why I went BBK kit via 2V or 4V.

First off I met a few grom owners with the super 125cc kit that REN sells or other vendors sell. For one thing the super 125 kit is great for reliability and will cruz all day 70-80mph with the correct ECM, airbox, exhaust, and mapping.

I had both the 2V kits 170cc and 183cc and now the 4V kits Takegawa 181-4v.
From having been one of the first grom owners testing and tuning both these types of kit I found out that things to consider is good A/F mapping, good cooling, and correct gearing setup.

The main thing that I realized that hindered all my builds may it be 2V or 4V kits was the CCV system. With out going into details I sure if I had found the right CCV system I would maybe still be running 2V engines. CCV= Crank Case Venting. As I said with out understanding internal crank case pressure, blow-by and such I would never have gotten my engine to last and run as good as they do now.

Finding the right ECM system is the second most important area most grom builders need to take into consideration. I'll let the builder decide how much they can spend or money wasted to figure out what works or not.

Most grom owners on this website need to read everything on this website pertaining to building a good engine and decide what hardware they can afford or should buy for their type of riding style or what they want to accomplish in your build.

Below I will list the items that I think that is important for any grom build starting with mild build to wild build.
1. remove oil spinner and replace with Kitaco Clutch side cover. "advantage, you get a real oil filter, ports for external oil cooler, reduced spinning weight"
2. Mod airbox or aftermarket air-box system
3. full exhaust system, "NO crappy slip on's, want noise drill some holes in your stock muffler"
4. 60% stiffer clutch spring esp if you are going BBK, anything less than 60% you will experience slippage
5. Port match any intake or exhaust port on the head with the hardware you are using.
6. Porting of the intake on the head is very important for HP
7. CCV, get a good Crank Case Venting system, there is a lot of choice out there some good and some not so good.
8. get the correct F/I for your engine.
9. Reduce weight either on the grom or on yourself will help out the total experience in Hot Rodding the grom.

Good Luck all and ride safe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I'd rather keep the stock bore and maintain as much of the Honda reliability as I can. I've heard good things about about RMW kits, so I figured if I was going to spend the coin, may as well try to keep the problems to a minimum. I know lots of riders have super quick, well tuned machines running big bore kits and or 4v heads, but it seems more of a gamble than the super 125 kit.

I decided to keep the Grom on the road for the rest of the season and start once winter hits, so next spring hopefully I'll have some comments.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Gotcha. Makes sense .... I have seen a lot of dudes liking the idea of keeping the stock OEM reliability of the Honda components. Look forward to hearing what you think in the future.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I will answer why I went BBK kit via 2V or 4V.

First off I met a few grom owners with the super 125cc kit that REN sells or other vendors sell. For one thing the super 125 kit is great for reliability and will cruz all day 70-80mph with the correct ECM, airbox, exhaust, and mapping.

I had both the 2V kits 170cc and 183cc and now the 4V kits Takegawa 181-4v.
From having been one of the first grom owners testing and tuning both these types of kit I found out that things to consider is good A/F mapping, good cooling, and correct gearing setup.

The main thing that I realized that hindered all my builds may it be 2V or 4V kits was the CCV system. With out going into details I sure if I had found the right CCV system I would maybe still be running 2V engines. CCV= Crank Case Venting. As I said with out understanding internal crank case pressure, blow-by and such I would never have gotten my engine to last and run as good as they do now.

Finding the right ECM system is the second most important area most grom builders need to take into consideration. I'll let the builder decide how much they can spend or money wasted to figure out what works or not.

Most grom owners on this website need to read everything on this website pertaining to building a good engine and decide what hardware they can afford or should buy for their type of riding style or what they want to accomplish in your build.

Below I will list the items that I think that is important for any grom build starting with mild build to wild build.
1. remove oil spinner and replace with Kitaco Clutch side cover. "advantage, you get a real oil filter, ports for external oil cooler, reduced spinning weight"
2. Mod airbox or aftermarket air-box system
3. full exhaust system, "NO crappy slip on's, want noise drill some holes in your stock muffler"
4. 60% stiffer clutch spring esp if you are going BBK, anything less than 60% you will experience slippage
5. Port match any intake or exhaust port on the head with the hardware you are using.
6. Porting of the intake on the head is very important for HP
7. CCV, get a good Crank Case Venting system, there is a lot of choice out there some good and some not so good.
8. get the correct F/I for your engine.
9. Reduce weight either on the grom or on yourself will help out the total experience in Hot Rodding the grom.

Good Luck all and ride safe.
Lots of good feedback and knowledge in this post... totally get ya on the good CCV. Without it your gonna suffocate the engine and cause lots of oil oil consumption as well as possible internal damage and lack of power.

I just asked the question to the original poster because I was curious his particular reasoning

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Slight change of plans. I'm sending the super 125 piston, and head gasket + Tbolt cam back to RMW, and I'm essentially swapping for the new super 150 kit. Figured I was spending the cash building the bike, why not get a little extra kick. (Slippery slope, I know)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Slight change of plans. I'm sending the super 125 piston, and head gasket + Tbolt cam back to RMW, and I'm essentially swapping for the new super 150 kit. Figured I was spending the cash building the bike, why not get a little extra kick. (Slippery slope, I know)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Awesome! That’s the kit I am leaning towards as well. Haven’t heard much about the 150 kit. Wonder what they are seeing speed wise with these kits and the average size rider .... now to have a buddy buy the kit and ship it too me good ol CA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts



Can OP or anyone else who has done a front fender delete like the one above tell me how you secured the brake line bracket that's attached to the stock front fender?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #17



Can OP or anyone else who has done a front fender delete like the one above tell me how you secured the brake line bracket that's attached to the stock front fender?
oh boy, I haven't updated this in a hot second. crap. oh well: I didn't secure it at all, and I've had zero problems in the last 1.6k miles


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
It's like a splittin' image of my Brute GP! Congrats!
 
  • Like
Reactions: altek
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top