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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Let her rip!

Sorry for the camera angle. Still more mods to do and I'll get some real riding content up before too long. Waiting on low fender mount, second oil cooler, new rear axle, tapered steering head bearing swap, fork oil swap, and then settle on gearing.

Also plan to quiet down the exhaust, eventually do the aluminum frame and swingarm plus some flashy wheels.

 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
It looks like she is pulling nice 馃憤 Exhaust sounds just right to me, I wouldn鈥檛 quiet her down
It's much louder in person. Plus it makes my tinnitus ring louder after each ride!

Thinking now a small premuffler like a cherry bomb style to replace the section of header under the bike. Something to take the edge off of the volume.

Also considering adding some intake tube length.

Found a shop that sells silicone sections and I can color coordinate it with the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
90154


Installing the side cover but it doesn't fit over the catch can. Need to perform some relief cuts/sanding to make it fit properly.

Looks good though. Way overpriced, IMO for such a thin piece that needs customization to make fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
So far so good on the running in.

Installed the manual can chain tensioner, let the engine idle and finger tightened and locked it down. All's quiet there.

Got scheduled for Tuesday with the fabricator to remove the reducer in the silencer so max flow can be attained.

Ever since getting the bike together and running it seems to always be running a bit off with the timing or tuning. I added some octane booster on that tank I did the video and it really smoothed out the performance.

Today I ran it without again and it runs good but it is a little flat/buzzy like pinging.

When I got home with 50 miles into a tank I put the octane booster in and then filled it up.

Immediately it smooths out and gives nice strong progressive power.

Also, gas mileage is way up! Ever since doing the first 181cc 2 valve I've been getting at best 90 to 95 mpg.

After blasting around this morning cruising 65 to 70 mph around Blue Diamond, past Red Rock, then through Summerlin at 35 to 45 mph then on the highway ripping it to high 80's mph and back home on city streets at 45 mph it got 106 mpg.

I'd say 40% of the ride was above 60 mph.

If I could cruise a steady 55 mph I bet it would see 125 mpg again. Tough to go that slow when 65mph is so effortless.

Temps are staying in check too.

90183


90184


That second pic was from the second ride today where the winds picked up and the skies started to threaten rain so I came back home.
 

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Have you tried pulling some timing out of it in the range that it pings without the octane booster to see if that helps?
 

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Removing timing is safe, if you go too far you ruin performance. Adding timing is dangerous, if you go too far you ruin your engine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Removing timing is safe, if you go too far you ruin performance. Adding timing is dangerous, if you go too far you ruin your engine.
Once I run the octane booster through this tank I'll pull timing across the board except for idle and maybe the immediate squares around it.

I'll try dropping 2 degrees and see how it feels.

Idle shows timing of 2 degrees.
 

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Dub sloho told me that one of the big tuners told him timing should not exceed 30deg above 8k rpm. Have you run and logs? If you are above 30deg advance I'd dial those cells back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Dub sloho told me that one of the big tuners told him timing should not exceed 30deg above 8k rpm. Have you run and logs? If you are above 30deg advance I'd dial those cells back.
I'll definitely check this out. Mine definitely runs kind of flat and buzzy from 7k on up. The octane booster had helped a lot here to smooth it out everywhere a provide strong pull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Timing after 8k drops to 28 degrees.

I ran into another issue though. The bike doesn't want to start sometimes. I was showing some folks around today and at high elevation the bike refused to start.

I ended up bump starting it several times.

It is flat off idle and pops from time to time.

When I got home I backed the idle air screw out to 2 turns and that seemed to give it a stronger idle.

The off idle performance is flat.

Wondering if I should play with the fuel base. Throttle response at low rpm is twitchy. If I were to add more fuel would that cure the low rpm twitchiness?
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Not much progress on the Monkey lately and motivation matches that. Just saw 114掳f while driving over to pick up my exhaust.

One shop I asked to remove the inserts in the perforated core so I could attain max flow. They sat on it for a week.

Took it to another go to and they didn't quite understand what I was after and took everything out and reassembled. Can't imagine how annoyingly loud that would be!

The restrictions are significant though and when all is said and done I look forward to more power!

Look at these chokers!

Catalyst holder:
PXL_20210604_235425113.jpg


End cap side reducer:
PXL_20210604_235456314.jpg


This is a 1 3/4" perforated core.

Also, the packing was already blown out in a spot by the entrance of the end cap reducer.

My plan is to grind the welds holding the reducers in to remove them and wrap it with stainless mesh and then I have some ceramic fire blanket packing to wrap it with.

Still have to do steering head bearings, fork oil, fender bracket, and second oil cooler.

This exhaust has been a pain in the a$$!
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Still waiting on the exhaust to be finished. Getting stupid now! Way too much effort on this pipe and would not purchase again due to heavy restrictions.

Still haven't seen anything I really like and none will have power without deafening sound.

Put the Takegawa low fender kit on. Much more involved than the other kits but by far the most sturdy.

90274


90275


Once the exhaust is done I'll add the second cooler for the dual setup. It waits in a box.

The later when business is going again I'll possibly re-do the suspension, do the aluminum frame and swingarm, and get a wheel upgrade and be about done!
 

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The Takegawa down fender is a quality piece indeed. I tweaked it a bit by lowering the fender even more and turned it around. Very pleased with the result馃槉
90283
 

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Just in case anybody needs ring gap on the Takegawa 181 cc 4 valve - 4V Superheat it is as follows:

Top ring: 0.50mm
2nd ring: 0.60mm
Oil rings: 0.90mm

Haven't measured yet but I hope they are good. I'll need to go get another tool for messing with that if they are off.

I lost my Takegawa woodruff keys so I've ordered some Honda stock Monkey/Grom keys to substitute. Stock woodruff keys I believe are 2 different sizes. Definitely different part numbers. Ordered 2 sets.

Takegawa just says 4mm woodruff keys x 2.

I know I'll need to get a new intake manifold o-ring too plus some screws to bolt down the throttle body to manifold and then to the head.

This kit did not include those parts.

View attachment 89737

View attachment 89738

Good thing I'm not getting paid to do this!

Although I'm going over everything multiple times because I don't want to do this again any time soon. I'm ready to ride!
I think you got the gaps wrong mate.. those are the service limits I believe?

90303
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
I think you got the gaps wrong mate.. those are the service limits I believe?

View attachment 90303
Here's where I took the information from:

90304


It shows the measure of the ring gap in the image. You chopped it out of your picture.

No other information in the instructions regarding ring gap numbers.

Not sure if I noted measurements on this thread or over on ADV but they were much tighter out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 · (Edited)
I went over the instructions again and I cannot see anywhere that ring gap numbers are provided other than that one section.

90305


Did you find ring gap specs?

Another section mentions thickness of the rings themselves at .8mm for 1 and 2 and oil ring 1.5mm.

Those are the thickness of the rings themselves.
 
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