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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
You have me thinking about winter projects already. Glad the 5 speed is working out for you as well. After all said and done I'm curious how it will handle trails you bring it on. Or like you said earlier, it may be street only. But even more of a reason to get a ct125 then! Ha. FWIW I use quadlock for my phone and it is worth every penny in my opinion. SUPER sturdy.
Last time I put a phone mount on a motorcycle it broke the camera in the phone from vibration.

Haven't tried again since.
 

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Last time I put a phone mount on a motorcycle it broke the camera in the phone from vibration.

Haven't tried again since.
I was reading about that and I heard it effected certain camera systems (I'm technology stupid so excuse my terminologies) I know quadlock has an anti vibration piece that can be added on that is supposed to resolve the issue but I'm not sure
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I ordered a bag style phone mount so there won't be vibration and I don't need a special case or attachment to the phone.

ARacer has updated the Monkey maps and has a big bore map now so that has been loaded onto the ECU.

When I run it next I'll update the AFR table again to run rich and cool but I need the phone mount to monitor what is going on, making sure the bike stays cool, before running in.

Also have to adjust valves again and reroute the catch can lines.

Nothing terribly difficult there.

Plus get the exhaust fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
Just did my first full rpm rips on the bike hitting 12k rpm. It is so fast compared to a stock or even 181 2 valve.

Just hit 70 mph in 3rd gear on an almost flat, very slight uphill. That was fast enough to catch up to traffic.

I still think 16/32 is too tall and I'm planning to go back to 16/34 unless the bike becomes significantly faster with break in and tuning.

Definitely created a monster!
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
90003


Got this phone bag phone holder so I can watch the auto tune table/temperature.

When I got back earlier from the test run it didn't log the majority of the activity. Maybe because I turned off the screen when I put it into my pocket.
 

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View attachment 90003

Got this phone bag phone holder so I can watch the auto tune table/temperature.

When I got back earlier from the test run it didn't log the majority of the activity. Maybe because I turned off the screen when I put it into my pocket.
Seems strange that it wouldn't keep logging unless the screen was active. I'd assume it would as long as the app was active
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Seems strange that it wouldn't keep logging unless the screen was active. I'd assume it would as long as the app was active
I just ran it with the screen on and able to watch from the bars and it stayed on. Got some good running in.

With it in the pocket and the screen turning off I think the phone app stops the function.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Ceramic wheel bearings go in tomorrow.

Then I can get the exhaust fix scheduled.
 

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Ceramic wheel bearings go in tomorrow.

Then I can get the exhaust fix scheduled.
I know your bike is still tuning, but I would be very interested in your opinion of the ceramic bearings once installed. Which brand did you go with?
 
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
I know your bike is still tuning, but I would be very interested in your opinion of the ceramic bearings once installed. Which brand did you go with?
I ordered from MNNTHBX.

Waiting to pick up the wheels to reinstall.
 

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I know your bike is still tuning, but I would be very interested in your opinion of the ceramic bearings once installed. Which brand did you go with?
I’ve installed ceramic bearings from ceramicspeed. My wheels surely turn nice and effortless, but if it’s worth the price that’s up for debate. But I like them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Got the Monkey out to go shooting in the desert. No doubt about it, she rips! In a tuck I hit 93mph and a red dash light started flashing. I believe it is a preprogrammed speed warning light, I'll have to check the instructions and settings again.

Otherwise it runs without issues. Oil isn't leaking. Going up one of the mountains chasing after the other trucks in our group maintaining low 70's mph in 3rd gear the oil temps were getting warm. That was spinning up the engine to fight not only the long incline but also the wind.

The way home I was cruising 65 to 70 mph in 5th gear. It wasn't having to fight as hard but still had a harsh cross/diagonal wind.

Power comes on strongest up top but it still goes with traffic easily by revving to 6 or 7k rpm before shifting.

6500 to 7k rpm is pretty unstressed.

Edit: it starting to get warm so rides are going to be limited. Need to reregister one of the vans so I can haul it to riding locals.

If I get a dirt friendly exhaust by all means I'll lower gearing back to stock. You'd think with the speed this thing generates it would be a wheelie machine but it has to rev out so far before you hit the big pulling power that it isn't yanking the wheel off of the ground.

Lastly, I'd really like a quieter exhaust without sacrificing power. If anybody has any ideas?

I'd like to do a sump hugging header that loops to the lower frame mount, back towards the head and loops again back behind the right rearset to a high mounted pipe back away from my heel which touches the muffler I have now.

Tried finding small diameter resonators to add in the header below the engine but am not finding much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
My bike runs warm. Cruise it around town at 50 mph or below and it runs around 200°f.

Start cruising the open road and watch the temps get up to 240°f.

I switched back to stock gearing do the bike isn't under load while cruising at 70 mph. RPM seems a little high at highway speeds so I'm no a fan of the short gearing.

My next mods are low mount fender for more air flow, adding a second oil cooler(Takegawa 4valve specific), manual cam chain tensioner, new rear axle to replace the Chimera steel axle(too tight, gets stuck), and then go over the spacers on the rear axle because after a while of riding the rear brake likes to hang some.

Parts will take a couple weeks as most are coming from Japan.

I'll keep running the bike in. Just changed back to 10w30 oil from 10w40. Maybe take the bike for a cruise later when it cools down. I'll put off any major riding for when the cam chain tensioner arrives. Looking forward to having consistent tension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I'm running it just above the sight glass.

Running hard at high rpm it stays cool, cruising around town at 50 mph or below it stays cool. Cruising at 60 to 70 mph up a slight incline it gets warm.

I think I'm at about 1.25 quarts.
 

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You running the thermostat? My car gets up to 240 doing pulls. It's never worried me and even with an aircooled engine those temps wouldn't concern me too much.

I'm trying to think what would cause the temps to increase at low load cruising speed. I honestly think it's just design of the oiling system. Your oil temp sensor is in the passage for the timing chain. The head just gets sprayed and oil runs off past the valvetrain and runs across that sensor as it drains back to the crank case. It's far from the cooled oil so I think it's a relatively inaccurate temp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
You running the thermostat? My car gets up to 240 doing pulls. It's never worried me and even with an aircooled engine those temps wouldn't concern me too much.

I'm trying to think what would cause the temps to increase at low load cruising speed. I honestly think it's just design of the oiling system. Your oil temp sensor is in the passage for the timing chain. The head just gets sprayed and oil runs off past the valvetrain and runs across that sensor as it drains back to the crank case. It's far from the cooled oil so I think it's a relatively inaccurate temp.
Once you hit a certain temp the ARacer dials back the power. That or my fuel tank doesn't vent properly since removal of the canister/valve.

I'm running just fine and once you hit 220 to 240 I'll get a sudden bog. I can stop, shut it off, and then it runs fine again. Oil temp still warm.

I'll have to look into an alternate oil temp sensor. Maybe switch to the Takegawa TFT dash and their oil temp sensor.

Not sure how ARacer gets the info from that though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
I altered the temperature compensation and went out for maybe 15 or so miles not doing any highway.

Temps never exceeded 225°f.

They only went that high when doing some hard runs through the gears getting up to 70 to 80 mph.

Somebody, I think Cisco, said that the 15/15D cam is deceptively fast. This is definitely true.

You're not popping wheelies but it pulls and pulls. I'm getting up to redline in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. Right now with the stock gearing of 15/34 it hits right around 80 mph in third near redline.

I switched to Redline 10w30 motorcycle oil before this last run and I didn't overfill it this time and it seems to run faster and cooler.

When doing the last oil change I let it idle to get the cooler full on the track stand (vertical) and not get a bunch of run off(leaned on the sidestand) and got the oil to the top of the glass.

Checked after a few hours and it did settle to the very top of the glass again.

The next oil change should see most of the 10w40 out of there.

After doing the hard runs where it got hot, if it isn't as fast as it was I'll do a new piston and rings.

To me it feels a little slower than the initial runs but that could also be 100% just being used to the power and characteristics change.

It was rolling 70 mph with taller gearing in 5th gear and I was pretty impressed by that.

Once that second cooler hits it bet it runs really cool.

I haven't played with timing or AFR. Just went back to the ARacer settings for 170 4 valve.
 
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