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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Took the bike out again.

It sure does vibrate more.

Also got a scary rattle noise which I'm not 100% sure what it was but I think it may be the 4th bearing on the end of the crank. There is a mod to drill a hole to let oil in there.

Also, I've got a leak. Hoping it is an easy fix like the countershaft seal. It rolled a lip on install.

It is much quicker. The top end isn't tuned though. This thing should pull hard to 12k to 12.5k
 

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Damn. Sorry to hear of the issues, but, so it goes with the mods. Hope it's nothing serious and you get it sorted soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Rattle noise is the 4th bearing not getting oil.

Oil leak is countershaft seal.

Not bad. Two easy fixes.

Studying up on the manual for ARacer on setup so I'll have some work to do on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Monkey down.

The woodruff key replacement was an epic fail. OEM DOES NOT WORK on the Takegawa crank. They have the same width but are taller and longer.

Now the crank channel for the woodruff key is not square anymore. Not sure what I'll be doing with this.

89828
 

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I know you probably already have parts on order. I was thinking about this and woodruff keys are mostly an alignment mark. A special tool is needed to pull the flywheel because under torque and the taper of the crank, it essential becomes a press fitting. I would consider running that crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I know you probably already have parts on order. I was thinking about this and woodruff keys are mostly an alignment mark. A special tool is needed to pull the flywheel because under torque and the taper of the crank, it essential becomes a press fitting. I would consider running that crank.
The taper has some damage from the flywheel breaking the key and spinning it around the crank.

If the taper was still smooth I would have used the damaged crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
89951



89952


89953


Today I rebuilt the motor with another new Takegawa forged crank plus new flywheel.

Everything else was in great shape because of the almost no mileage on the kit. No problems with piston or rings although the rings all turned from initial which is odd to me. Didn't think that would happen. I repositioned them and reinstalled.

Because of the flywheel and crank damage I added a little Loctite 680 to the cleaned taper surface so it bonds the pieces together and no tension is added to the woodruff key.

The woodruff keys fit very tightly in the crank channels. Each had to be tapped into place and position.

Tomorrow I'll wrap up reassembly as I need to reinstall the cam sprocket, exhaust, oil cooler lines, chain and tidy up some wires.

By Saturday the Loctite will be cured and she can roar again!

Then I think I may try and have a custom exhaust made to quiet this thing down some.
 

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Rings are supposed to turn. Something something degree of the cylinder cross hatching and engine harmonics cause them to spin.

It makes sense, they would wear unevenly on the top and bottom where there is a lot more pressure when the piston slightly rocks with crank rotation opposed to the sides where most pistons dont have a skirt because there is less pressure in the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I think I found it in the Takegawa crank instructions, crankshaft rated for 12,000 rpm so I'll put my redline there.

Have to redo the mapping again after the last fiasco.

I was getting a low idle last time too so I've knocked that up an eighth turn. Should get me close.

Time to study ARacer tuning instructions again.

Anybody know how to fix the incorrect dash temperature reading post ARacer install?
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
This bike is so much fun. Did my first run with auto tune going. It needs some serious dialing in. Feels strangled all over the place.

It is still a lot faster than the 181 2 valve.

May have posted before that I am probably going to drop back to 16/34 gearing from 16/32. 5th is overdrive now. Maybe as it breaks in my mind will change but taking off from a start with kevlar friction plates it is a little choppy feeling.

One of these companies should come out with a small bike like these with a big power motor from the factory.

Give it a 6 speed and 30hp, keep the small size and wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
So what you think. Worth the investment so far?
I'm going to reserve judgement for when it is dialed in. I think when you use really high rpm it spits oil out even though I've got the venting in place. I may need a line to pull pressure into the intake.

I just had to top up the oil again after playing around on the ride earlier today.

Going to go out again soon for some more testing. Really need to get some sort of phone mount to monitor what is happening.

What I can say is there is a huge increase in speed even with the super tall gearing and 5 speeds should be minimum! So nice to have closely spaced gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Also, somebody said on the thread of ARacer timing that some performance Monkey maps will be available soon.
 

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You have me thinking about winter projects already. Glad the 5 speed is working out for you as well. After all said and done I'm curious how it will handle trails you bring it on. Or like you said earlier, it may be street only. But even more of a reason to get a ct125 then! Ha. FWIW I use quadlock for my phone and it is worth every penny in my opinion. SUPER sturdy.
 
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