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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Partially built the head last night with cam and rocker install. Need the cylinder on to do sprocket and decompression assembly.

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The big circlip to hold the cam in place:

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I've got until mid next week for the woodruff keys so I'll get the intake attached to the head, check ring gap and work on ARacer install and remove the Speedo DRD.
 

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I think you will still want the speedo correction, or did you get an aftermarket display?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I think you will still want the speedo correction, or did you get an aftermarket display?
I'm running the Opmid display and it gives you options to change gearing ratios in the transmission, change sprockets, and account for error percentage correction after all of those are accounted for.
 

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No ABS then I assume? Because the Opmid doesn’t alter the speed signal just alter the display view. If I’m not mistaken. This doesn’t give you the ABS warning light but the ABS system is not working. I thought I have read that somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
No ABS then I assume? Because the Opmid doesn’t alter the speed signal just alter the display view. If I’m not mistaken. This doesn’t give you the ABS warning light but the ABS system is not working. I thought I have read that somewhere.
Mine is non-abs.

Even if it changes the display I'm happy to have proper info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Rings in the Takegawa kit are not pregapped like I've read on the internets.

I've only been working my top ring so far and from the factory it was .030mm and the manual says .050mm.

Will report back later with the others as I get to them.

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Should be back together this evening as long as everything lines up and fits together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Got the top end on.

PXL_20210416_012734928.jpg


Putting on the cam sprocket and decompression device involved putting the sprocket on with the dot aligned with the forward protrusion into the cam sprocket pocket along with having your flywheel on the "T" timing mark and your tensioner spring removed.

Then put the two bolts into the decompression device with thread lock and snug those down.

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Then there is the conical slider piece that goes on. Then you get a snap ring and put it on the threaded tool to pull out the decompression pushrod so you can attach the snap ring in place to keep it all together.

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Then remove the special tool by backing it out and you have yourself a decompression device.

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Right now the conical slider is tensioned in towards the cam. Once the engine fires, centrifugal force slides the weight towards the cam chain and the conical slider is forced away from the cam pulling the pushrod and dropping the decompression pin on the cam shaft.

Neat setup.

Next is valve adjustment, torque the clutch nut, clutch cover on, put it back into the bike and install the ARacer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
89780


Saving the oil pump prime/install, and clutch cover for tomorrow. Plus ARacer install, new chain, and I am planning on a smaller rear sprocket too but I haven't ordered yet.

She's almost there. Going to be big power!

All of the included rings were not gapped. Not even close. If you get a Takegawa kit, don't think they are set. You will screw up your rings and possibly piston.

Extreme case you could screw up the cylinder too but I think you need a real screw up plus run a very poor tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
She's ready! First the ARacer needs to go in and the Speedo DRD out.

89788
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
You better have a productive weekend. We're dying out here
Been slow going with work related tasks and messing with the rats nest aka ARacer with wideband AF1. Holy moly that's a lot a string!

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I would have paid more for more slim connectors and less wires. Very bulky setup.

Have to get the Takegawa oil cooler on next. If this build goes full street beastie then I'll probably add a second oil cooler off of the valve cover that Takegawa offers pulling oil from the cylinder ports.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
As I'm patching everything up I remembered the head studs and that I'm not sure which way is correct orientation.

Not the longs and the shorts but the two short ones for the oil passage side have holes in one end. I sent an email to Grom Fatherz to get clarification. If the engine had a top end failure with all other parameters set properly then this would surely be the cause.

Also need a new sparkplug wire and boot to get good routing without tension on the wire.

Waiting on the new rear sprocket so I don't have to cut the chain twice.

Also need the O2 bung fixed. The shop that did mine did a shitty job. Need a good welder to patch it and place the new one at a better angle and further forward.

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Takegawa Oil Cooler is much cleaner/smaller than the Kitaco and comes with nicer lines and a shield.

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If the setup runs hot then I will add a second cooler that Takegawa sells for the 4 valve head. That would mean strictly road use though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ok kids, she's alive!

Still waiting on my new rear sprocket to go with the new chain so no rides.

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Once I get it on the road I'm headed to an exhaust shop to fix the screwed up O2 bung. The place that originally did it used mild steel instead of stainless and it is in the wrong spot.

Got the ARacer going and picked a 170cc bike map with bigger injector and it would not idle.

Dialed back the fuel base and then it would idle but now it won't rev.

Also, it runs really cool. Could not get it over 132° F. That with idle AFR at 13:1.

Need to play with that thing a bit before I start auto tuning.

My idle speed screw is barely touching the throttle plate and I backed out the idle air screw to 2 turns.

Also, 4 valve top end is very noisy. I gathered that from the videos I've seen on youtube.

I may tighten clearances a little. Running .006 intake and exhaust.

Tomorrow should be the first ride!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Tightened up the valve lash to .003" which is the loose end of Takegawa spec.

She's a lot noisier than the 2 valve setup.


When the sprocket gets in later today I'll make a maiden voyage with auto tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Got the bike completely together(except exhaust side cover after O2 sensor fix).

Still doesn't sound right to me.

Notice a little part that popped out of my clutch cover and after some research, I need to get it back in there as I'm losing some oil pressure to necessities. Namely the cam chain tensioner which I hear making noise.

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I'll put that back in here in a bit and then hopefully she runs proper and later this evening make an auto tune run.

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With the new head, piston, and cam the bike is louder! Going to be a beast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Found a weird issue with the Opmid dash and Aracer: the temp gauge on the Opmid dash now reads very low. Like 30 to 40°f low. No idea how to fix that.

The Aracer App reads correctly though.

Haven't seen temps over 180°f yet. Planning on a run after dinner.
 
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