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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've already been documenting my build until now in the thread Grom.net newb from Vegas with a Monkey

Got my last ride out of the way yesterday, which didn't go well, and now we start the tear down, cleaning, and install of the Takegawa 181cc 4 valve with 5 axis CNC ported head and intake manifold plus custom ported exhaust manifold, Takegawa forged crank and rod, Takegawa 5 speed transmission and replacing all other internal parts short of flywheel and clutch.

Tonight will be bathing and taking off ancillary parts.

From the last 2 valve ride which didn't go as planned as my bike was overheating:

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Slow and steady pulling the little beast apart.

Tomorrow I'll pop off the top end and pull the engine afterwards.

Anybody have dimensions on an engine box for working on the bottom end?

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Engine out.

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Cylinder is in excellent shape.

Piston and rings look good although I'd get new ones to run it again.

If I'm up to it I'll split the case tonight.

Then it is cleaning time, organize parts going back in, and start reassembly.
 

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You know you want to polish that starter housing while you can get to it, lol. Be the first kid on the block to DO IT! :ROFLMAO:
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cracked the case halves and then found out I need a press to remove the crank. Off to the shop porting my head. Should be done tomorrow and I can work on putting it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Picked up my head and crankcase.

Cleaned everything up and made sure all oil galleries and ports/jets were free of debris. Cleaned the sealant off of case half mating surfaces and I've got my crank and bearings in the freezer.

Going to heat the case, drop in the crank bearing, then heat the bearing and drop on the crank without any special tools.

Waiting on new dowel pins before I apply sealant and bolt together the case halves.

Then new head studs and piston, cylinder, and head.

Still debating on getting the ARacer(plus which one to use) or having Dynojet dyno tune the PV3.

I'm really nervous about giving the bike to Dynojet after putting out the money and time building it for them having the bike for days tuning.

Sounds like ARacer will help me get more of what I want(higher rpm ceiling, known AFR and timing advance) and I can monitor what is happening.



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The port work on the exhaust, opened up to gasket size and smoothed into the head, smoothed the valve pocket, you can see the black paint is still slightly there in some spots.

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One last thing of interest here, to me anyway, is cam chain tensioner pushrod buttons. I have been running the Chimera button along with my Takegawa HD cam chain tensioner.

Since I'm replacing all of these parts I'd found that Takegawa makes and recommends their pushrod button for correct pressure/function citing other pushrod buttons have different specs and can cause pressure issues.

Here is a pic of the Chimera and Takegawa buttons side by side:

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is what Takegawa says regarding cam chain pushrod head(button):

"Be sure to use genuine with moderate damper effect and our company push rod head.
Cam chain tensioner push rod head 00-01-0279

Because reinforced push rod heads sold by other manufacturers cause a large load on the cam chain and cause engine trouble, please do not install at the same time."
 

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Nice progress! After what we talked about and the research I’ve been doing, I think I’d go the aracer route. The ability to diagnose, monitor and adjust at your leisure without having to bring the bike anywhere or send anything out seems like that alone is worth the price. I believe that’s the route I’ll be going, anyways
 

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These are mini5 tables. Biggest consideration for a RC2 for you is the resolution you may want. Most blast through the low rpm, but with your offroading you may want some more refinement. I haven't tried rescaling the aracer tables like dynojet, but you will have a lot more powerband to tune for.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This a mini5 tables. Biggest consideration for a RC2 for you is the resolution you may want. Most blast through the low rpm, but with your offloading you may want some more refinement. I haven't tried rescaling the aracer tables like dynojet, but you will have a lot more powerband to tune for.

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You would get smaller increments between tuning blocks?

I just want a cool and safe running engine.

If I could get away with the Mini5 I'd go that route since it is smaller and possibly less complicated to use.

I want to ride, not become a tuner. Tried looking at my Dynojet tune on my bike now and I can't even get into the map to see what is what. I think Dynojet may need a purchased token or pin password to see what is there and adjust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Got my bearings in the case. Went to install the crank using heat on the bearing and frozen crank and the crank didn't go. I'll swing by the shop tomorrow to have them pull it through.

Then I'll load up the transmission, seal the halves and wait a day before slapping the top end on it.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Crank in the case, transmission installed, case halves together and realized I put the countershaft seal in too far. There is an easy two week screw up! Have to wait for that before the engine fires.

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Not sure if I'll assemble any more until the seal is in. Don't want any bits going into all those fresh expensive parts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Looks good and went for the Aracer. Let me know how it goes
Will do. Can't wait to see how it works. Kinda wished I'd went that route instead of Power Vision just based on the access to info and control over it.
 

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Nice progress so far. I think that if I went to the trouble of splitting cases, I would have to add the 5spd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nice progress so far. I think that if I went to the trouble of splitting cases, I would have to add the 5spd.
Zoom in on the last pic I posted and you'll see the Takegawa stamp on the shift drum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just in case anybody needs ring gap on the Takegawa 181 cc 4 valve - 4V Superheat it is as follows:

Top ring: 0.50mm
2nd ring: 0.60mm
Oil rings: 0.90mm

Haven't measured yet but I hope they are good. I'll need to go get another tool for messing with that if they are off.

I lost my Takegawa woodruff keys so I've ordered some Honda stock Monkey/Grom keys to substitute. Stock woodruff keys I believe are 2 different sizes. Definitely different part numbers. Ordered 2 sets.

Takegawa just says 4mm woodruff keys x 2.

I know I'll need to get a new intake manifold o-ring too plus some screws to bolt down the throttle body to manifold and then to the head.

This kit did not include those parts.

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Good thing I'm not getting paid to do this!

Although I'm going over everything multiple times because I don't want to do this again any time soon. I'm ready to ride!
 
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