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Discussion Starter #1
I got my grom at the beginning of the 2016 summer, and love it so much I decided to ride it all year round. This is a bit of a challenge as I live in northern Minnesota, and the roads are consistently covered in a layer of snow and ice for most of November to April. So I decided to make my little grom into a trail worthy machine. I took a little inspiration from the Timber sled conversions I've seen on dirt bikes with the snowmobile ski in place of the front tire, and a track replacing the rear. Buying a custom made track for the rear is way above my price range, and making one is way above my skill sets so instead I took an old knobby Maxxis tire (so generously donated by a friend of mine) and made my self a hillbilly style studded tire using some sheet rock screws and a bunch of bolts. I've got a tube for the tire in the mail as well as a ski for the front. still a bit of disassembly left to do, a little more reassembly, and a hell of a lot of fabricating a way to connect the ski to the forks. Plenty of pictures to follow and hopefully a video of the finished product, in the mean time enjoy the few I have of the tire and pre-winterization bike. Any ideas, thoughts opinions? I'd love to hear them, so throw them below.
 

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Rode around in WI last year with kold kutter studs in knobby maxxis tires, considered a ski, but that was too much work at the time.

Works great in powder up to like a foot, as well as on ice, but if youre driving on loose packed snow (or anything thats been driven on already and not solid), the wheels just slide left/right almost uncontrollably. The ski might rectify this, but even timbersleds have trouble driving on packed snow because they only have one point of contact side to side.
Mounting the ski should be pretty straight forward, just make the piece that comes up to the correct height doesnt move at all, and you get your rotation out of the axle. Also, copy what timbersled did. Locate the front axle above the center of the ski (or pretty close), and have that mounted 1-2" ahead of the axle, it will cause the ski to always want to come up, so in the event of driving over something with openings, it wont tip forward.

Additionally, for the ski, If you could have found one that was concave, thatd be the best, gets you 2 points of contact, rather than a standard snowmobile ski that is going to be convex and is going to want to slide from side to side, much like a tire would in sand.


the screws seem a little excessive, as as soon as they drive on anything hard, ie ice or frozen ground, they are going to be forced out/forward/back, and warp the tire. More stud = more traction, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've actually ground down the screws already, I had the same train of thought as you. as cool as the full length screws look, they would have just ruined the tire. They are now maybe just about half an inch long at most. I just hadn't gotten a picture post grinding, or I would've posted those.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
night 2

update for night 2: the snow bike conversion is almost done. I got the hardest part, making the front ski-to-fork mount, nearly done. All that's left is drilling 4 little holes, and a layer or two of more paint. Then it's off the the store for some random nuts and bolts and the front half will be done. And for the rear I'm just waiting for a tire tube in the mail and then on goes the studded tire. I'm starting to get excited now, the snow grom is going to break so many necks
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Definitely keep me (and the others, I guess) updated on the ski. If it turns out well, ill have to ditch my front wheel and go the ski route too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was able to finish up the ski and got it mounted up to the bike last night. It's going to be weird not having a front brake. In the future I have a a few things I will want to adjust, like grinding down the arms to give more room for the ski to pivot, and maybe some more cross bars for support (I'll have to test it to see how stable it is). I also want to find a way to make sure the tip doesn't dip down when it goes up in the air, I'd rather not face plant. Right now the arm is shaped so that it hits the skis saddle and doesn't allow a drop more than maybe 30 degrees. I'd like to increase this pivot in case of any steep or rough terrain and so I will have to make up either some kind of spring between the ski and arm, or find a rubber boot like what snowmobiles have that will work. Now I'm just playing the waiting game, looking for the rear tire tube in the mail, it should be here today.
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Discussion Starter #14
Operation winter grom was a partial success. Tried going onto an old logging trail last Sunday. The poor excuse for snow cover we had just wasn't enough. The thing handled like crap, but I only ended up crashing once. towards the end of the ride it suddenly started handling a lot better. i thought i was just getting the hang of it, but when i got to the truck i saw i had a flat tire. i havn't had the time to tear it apart yet but i'm guessing the 1/16' rubber sheeting i used to pad between the screw heads and tube just wasn't thick enough. I've since picked up a used tire that ill be cutting up and putting inside to put even more protection round the tube. also when i crashed i broke the right front blinker and bent the brake pedal almost a full 180 degrees. i did more damage to it in a few hours out there, than i did all summer when i was learning how to wheelie.
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Interested to see how this works with some thick cover. I know sleds just flip when they are on hard pack since they need a "3D" medium for the skis to work. Wonder if you'll have the power to push through. Getting some ideas for my 450...

Also, the brake pedal is crazy easy to bend. Just put an adjustable spanner on there and bend it back.
 

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Bummer to see it didnt work. Buuuut... Maybe you should try again, but this time make a 2 wide ski rig, with one on each side of the forks. Hell, you could put one on each fork! Independent suspension!

Anyway, ive given up on my timbersled dream. Its really more for technical riding, and not just ripping around. Idk. Maybe if i ride one it will change my mind, but theres something special about having just some plastic and cloth separating you from 160 hp that i may not want to give up.
 

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It is a 2017 Timbersled ST 90 Ripper track kit $1999. Fits 110cc dirt bikes. CRF110, TTR110 and KX110. Bike not included. Installation kit required $199. It would be cool to see one of these fitted to a Grom.
 
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