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When I downshift, I usually don't feel the rear wheel tug that much unless I bring to 1st gear.

For those of you who have slipper clutches on your grom. Would you say its worth it or just a waste of money?
 

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The components are worth the $ just for the well built basket and 3 added spring plate bolts. That being said, I'm running 60% stiffer springs and a 6 disc clutch set, and that has significantly reduced the slipper function compared to the Barnett kit I ran. It does let the tension off, but I can still overrev it or chirp the tire if I bang down gears with total disregard.
 

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I've skipped many times. Sometimes it's sketchy but I keep it up. With that being said, I think it's best I install mine soon. I ordered mine a while back from hard racing. I've been so busy, it's hard for me to find time to install it. Especially with this nice winter weather in NY(40-60f).

For my riding style and terrain (second hilliest city in the us) I need this. I can't wait to install this with the 6 disc set from smr (steady garage) and I have 20% springs and I'm thinking about stiffer springs.


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i installed mine witht he 164 2v kit and after i installed the yss shock (about an inch higher in the back) and racetech valves in the front + the lower bars and rearsets. this biased the weight a bit more on the front wheel. when coming into a corner kind of hot, when you are setting up the line using engine braking, its so light on the back end it helps to keep it from kicking out. for a stock bike , prob not so much.
 

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My back end used to slide around a bit until I got used to blipping the throttle on down shifts to rev match. Though I still kinda want the slipper cuz of the superior build quality and it'd be a bit more forgiving if I miss match my blip and shift(doesn't happen too often anymore). Besides the chassis dynamics will change with upgrades as m in sc mentioned.
 

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Comming from a supermoto background I learned to modulate the clutch during hard down shifting. you can get a smooth controlable slide going with proper clutch control on a grom. learned a skill and saved money. i did concider a slipper clutch at one point but in my opinion is if your racing and have the cash get one. there is no downside to having one but what a slipper clutch can do a good rider can also do through clutch control. food for thought.
 

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The components are worth the $ just for the well built basket and 3 added spring plate bolts. That being said, I'm running 60% stiffer springs and a 6 disc clutch set, and that has significantly reduced the slipper function compared to the Barnett kit I ran. It does let the tension off, but I can still overrev it or chirp the tire if I bang down gears with total disregard.
Would you recommend 30% stiffer springs instead?
 

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Unless you go with the ultra-expensive Takegawa dry clutch/slipper/hydraulic kit, you'll have to either choose a Takegawa slipper or the Hymec hydraulic lever. Rev-matching is easy but you can't do much about the lever with how the right-side engine cover is designed. I've tried both, and I preferred having a nicer lever with 60% springs and the SMR plate/disc kit.
 

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Unless you go with the ultra-expensive Takegawa dry clutch/slipper/hydraulic kit, you'll have to either choose a Takegawa slipper or the Hymec hydraulic lever. Rev-matching is easy but you can't do much about the lever with how the right-side engine cover is designed. I've tried both, and I preferred having a nicer lever with 60% springs and the SMR plate/disc kit.
Thanks for the reply.

So you ended up taking out the Takegawa slipper clutch and ran it with the OEM pressure plate with SMR springs and clutch kit ?

I was planning to run the SMR springs (60%) and SMR clutch with the Takagawa slipper clutch as you had previously done.

No sure I understand how that setup would feel worse that without the slipper, although I do understand how the slipper functionality will be degraded by the tighter springs.

Could you elaborate? Thank you.

Here are links to the products I believe you referenced. Pretty intense components! Would love to see links to threads of folks who have run these kits.



 

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Takegawa has about 20+ different versions of that kit. Dry vs. wet, slipper vs. normal, hydraulic vs. cable, old kit vs. new model, etc.

I used the Takegawa slipper with the SMR springs and plates and this caused borderline cable adjustment issues (it was at the extreme limit of adjustment). Switching to a Hymec cable made the clutch unusable.

I'm now running the Hymec lever, 60% SMR springs, and SMR plates with the OEM basket. It's right where I like it, now, and doesn't slip with a 181NEO kit.

The Hymec kit required 2 washers for my setup, and YMMV. The limit is about 4-5 washers before you'd have to have a custom spacer made.
 
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