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Did you guys reroute the throttle cables?

Pic of pieces used to delete the charcoal canister?
 

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Not real happy, I need to go buy a set of torx screwdrivers take off an engine sensor of some sort to get to a bolt to tighten down 1 carb bolt

This is much more involved then the chimera intake

And instr. W pics would have been nice

Not able to ride bike tom.
 

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also this used to have a tube to the charc. canister as well, cap it off also? or let it breathe?

 

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Discussion Starter #11
@racer-x

Sorry you appear to be struggling with the install. Did you buy the cold air kit or just the billet adaptor? Our cold air kit comes with the vacuum cap and plastic vacuum couplers to route your crankcase breather towards the rear of the bike. It's pretty straightforward.

Yes you will need some tools and it is more involved then simply clamping on a pipe or air filter. However when we develop a product we try to take into consider fit, function and performance and if it takes a little longer to install then sometimes it's worth it.

To try and answer your immediate questions.

The fender brackets use the stock bolts that held the factory air box to the frame and you must re use the stock rubber oval grommets if you want it to mount the plastics just like factory.

The only thing which can be marginally tricky is routing the throttle cables so it doesn't become sticky. Make sure there are no sharp bends in the cable and test the return spring before starting the bike. Depending on your handle bar location it can vary on how much tweaking you need to do. We typically run them on the right side like stock past the headset then on top of the frame and below the gas tank over to the left side. You can either loosen the front bolt for the tank or take the throttle cable off because it's best to go rear of the front mounting bolt. You may be able to just go under the frame but the cleanest and most out of the way routing is on top of the frame.

If you have any other questions please call the shop tomorrow 877-Turbo-11 (we are 9-5pst) or send an email to [email protected] and I can email you some install photos.
 

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Sorry, yes I was frustrated

Pics of the way you routed the throttle cable and the way you used those little white caps would be nice

Btw,.ordered a clutch plate, no rush in shipping

Thanks
 

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ok got everything battened down

initial impression is that the bike has alot more torque low down , but maybe it's getting too much air up at the higher RPMs cuz it just doesn't seem to make power.
i've only ridden some 20mi so the bike is still adj. to the new airflow. it does seem to be sucking down alot more gas.

i hate to say, but this kit IMO is incomplete for public consumption

so far i've had to run to the store to get the proper bolt to hold the intake on the new adaptor, that may have just been a shipping error, but now i have to make a 2nd run to the store to get bolts for the air temp sensor as ya'll didn't include any. i had some bolts off my chimera kit, but they're too short. currently the sensor is zip tied to the fairing mount.

you guys supplied 1 vaccum plug, but really needs 3 more. so a run to the store to make it complete. i've got 2 HUGE bolts blocking of the charcoal filter lines and a freaking cable barrel inserted into the other vacuum line

there were no pics or instructions. ya'll did answer the phone when i called and gave me decent info.

i'll update w/ performance feel as i get more miles on the bike.

this can be a good product, but currently this kit is lacking.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks for your imput.. Sorry about the missing / wrong hardware. We understand that something so simple and readily available can be a major pain when your bike is in pieces mid install. Again, if you need any of the screws let us know.

As for the vacuum plugs, there only needs to be one small plug for the throttle body (which we include). We also include the union for the crankcase vent (5/16") and one for the fuel tank overflow (1/8") The fuel tank vent hose just gets vented to atmosphere. Not sure what other plugs or connections you are worried about.

While i do sympathize with your struggle to install a simple plate due to the fact you had some hardware missing, please understand your situation was an isolated incident and to say that it is not fit for public consumption just because you received the incorrect hardware is a bit exaggerated. If there is anything we can do to help, please let us know.
 

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this is connected to the canister as well, i got the pic from the charcoal removal thread



but in vertical axis

does this need to be plugged? or vent to atmosphere?

there is also a line that runs on the right side of the engine, that vents to the airbox or chimera intake plenum. when i called you guys said to plug that also.

maybe thats why my bike feels sluggish at higher rpms??

Of the 6 bolts that should have been in the kit, 1 was wrong and 2 were missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
First, that whole valve assembly pictured above gets removed from the bike. You do not use it, and the electrical plug does not have to be plugged in. Zip tie it out of the way.

the only line that gets plugged is the small brass nipple on the throttle body. Use the black rubber cap we sent.

the line on the right side of the motor (next to the starter) is the crankcase vent and it NEEDS to breathe. It can not be plugged. That is the one that uses the 5/16" plastic coupler to extend the hose towards the rear of the bike.
 

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Ah, ok

Maybe that plugged line is what's making my bike sluggish up top, like I said it feels much stronger down low, just runs out if steam.

Disconnecting that connector won't throw a code?

Remember my initial comment about instructions w pics for 'tards like me would have been nice.
 

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Butt dyno says new intake is much faster

It may have been the perfect scenario but yest on the commute home, I saw 71 on the speedo

My high before that was 66

We'll see if I can replicate that today

And for those that were asking about how it sounds, I say

Who cares! when you're at 50-60-70 you can't hear the intake.and if you can you need to put on a helmet and earplugs
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Butt dyno says new intake is much faster

It may have been the perfect scenario but yest on the commute home, I saw 71 on the speedo

My high before that was 66

We'll see if I can replicate that today

And for those that were asking about how it sounds, I say

Who cares! when you're at 50-60-70 you can't hear the intake.and if you can you need to put on a helmet and earplugs
Glad you are seeing a difference! We like to think it works well. thanks for posting
 
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