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I’m looking at high flow BCM or KOSO air filter, catless OE header, and possibly a cam (KOSO or DCR, based on recommendation from MNNTHBX), hence my research on the EFIE. Motor is otherwise stock with OE rev limit.

Trying to avoid the added cost of AFR monitors (safest route), but I also need to assess and balance the risk of potentially running too lean with those mods and the EFIE spoofer.

ETA: P.S. Just received a Corbin that I got off Craigslist for $138.

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Corbin seats are the best for me, I bought two back in 2014 and for your price of $138 that is a stealer price for a Corbin.
 

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Just a heads up for anyone who makes it this far into the thread...

I was setting up my EFIE and noticed that the voltage offset changed over time (without a pot adjustment). I had read some comments that the screw will migrate over time, so after my last tuning session, I set the EFIE at 225mV and used some liquid electrical tape on the screw to set it in place.

I measured the EFIE voltage the following morning (after it sat all night) and it was up to ~238 mV. Rode it to work, and back home (22 miles each way) and checked it as soon as I rolled into the garage (still hot), and it was back down to 228mV. I hypothesize that the circuit heat soaks after some usage, which increases the resistance of the circuit and drops the voltage. When it cools off, resistance drops and voltage rises again.

At the end of the day, I don't think the 13mV variants makes a hell of a lot of difference, but it was driving me nuts that I was getting different readings without making an adjustment. Probably makes the most sense when you're doing your initial setup to run for a while, make your setting, and deal with the temporary rise when things are cold.
 

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Just a heads up for anyone who makes it this far into the thread...

I was setting up my EFIE and noticed that the voltage offset changed over time (without a pot adjustment). I had read some comments that the screw will migrate over time, so after my last tuning session, I set the EFIE at 225mV and used some liquid electrical tape on the screw to set it in place.

I measured the EFIE voltage the following morning (after it sat all night) and it was up to ~238 mV. Rode it to work, and back home (22 miles each way) and checked it as soon as I rolled into the garage (still hot), and it was back down to 228mV. I hypothesize that the circuit heat soaks after some usage, which increases the resistance of the circuit and drops the voltage. When it cools off, resistance drops and voltage rises again.

At the end of the day, I don't think the 13mV variants makes a hell of a lot of difference, but it was driving me nuts that I was getting different readings without making an adjustment. Probably makes the most sense when you're doing your initial setup to run for a while, make your setting, and deal with the temporary rise when things are cold.

just built in fuel enrichment for cold running hahahaha.
 

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Holy old thread revival time! I see posts referring to 250mv and -250mv. I ordered the efie, wired everything correctly(green to ecu & white to o2) but I also get a -250mv. Which is correct? 250 or -250? Do I need to keep rotating the screw till I hit positive numbers?
 

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Holy old thread revival time! I see posts referring to 250mv and -250mv. I ordered the efie, wired everything correctly(green to ecu & white to o2) but I also get a -250mv. Which is correct? 250 or -250? Do I need to keep rotating the screw till I hit positive numbers?
Is your multimeter orientation correct? It should give you a positive reading.
 

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I'm unsure what you mean by that. When I initially wired it up it had a reading of -380mv. I just turned to pot u till it read -250mv. I see a cpl other people reference a negative number and wondered if it was all the same?
 
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