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Somehow I failed to digest the last sentence solidjohnny.

Installing my EFIE I found all the fuses are hot. May I ask nicely, where do you suggest I pick up a switched source from? Inquiring minds want to know!!!

Thanks in advance!!
If you run an OPMID oil temp gauge, it directs you to pull power from the front blinker relay. So I've been using that source to power my oil temp gauge and air/fuel ratio gauge. I don't see why you can't power the EFIE from there.
 

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If you run an OPMID oil temp gauge, it directs you to pull power from the front blinker relay. So I've been using that source to power my oil temp gauge and air/fuel ratio gauge. I don't see why you can't power the EFIE from there.
Thanks!
 

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If you run an OPMID oil temp gauge, it directs you to pull power from the front blinker relay. So I've been using that source to power my oil temp gauge and air/fuel ratio gauge. I don't see why you can't power the EFIE from there.
A tad bit more info on the EFIE.

I emailed the manufacturer last night and asked what is the amp pull the battery sees. This will be helpful in finding a 12v switched source. SolidJohnny suggested pulling off of the front turn signal relay. A very good safe suggestion.

I did not want another line coming from the headlight area to the battery area. Hence the question I asked.

Here is his answer...

Frankly, I don’t know. Been too many years since I designed the circuit.
But it isn’t much… Maybe 100 milliamps… likely less.


If this is true, you can pull from any switched 12v wire. 100ma 'taint nothing. I think I will pull 12v from the tail light wire. Keeps things tidy.
 

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A tad bit more info on the EFIE.

I emailed the manufacturer last night and asked what is the amp pull the battery sees. This will be helpful in finding a 12v switched source. SolidJohnny suggested pulling off of the front turn signal relay. A very good safe suggestion.

I did not want another line coming from the headlight area to the battery area. Hence the question I asked.

Here is his answer...

Frankly, I don’t know. Been too many years since I designed the circuit.
But it isn’t much… Maybe 100 milliamps… likely less.


If this is true, you can pull from any switched 12v wire. 100ma 'taint nothing. I think I will pull 12v from the tail light wire. Keeps things tidy.
I knew it was a very tiny draw because it would take a few days to drain the battery. LOL
 

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For the switched power source needed I used one of the fuses under the seat. I installed a " Add-A-Link " from the local Auto Parts store it was around $6





I will be getting my PCV and WB2 hopefully today, but probably early next week. Do I need to snag one of these Add-a-Link things?

I am just double checking that location is a switchable fuse location and wont drain the battery??? !!!! please and thank you. I just installed mine and want to be safe and have no worries.
 

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If you have a SF, that is hot all the time.

If you have an OG, you are golden.
 

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Just trying to get an update from anyone still using the EFIE. Are you still happy with it? Are you still using it at the suggested 250mv? Any significant changes with mpg or reliability?
 

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Just trying to get an update from anyone still using the EFIE. Are you still happy with it? Are you still using it at the suggested 250mv? Any significant changes with mpg or reliability?
Always check your spark plug color after any run using any ECU/ECM that is out there, it will give you heads up on the condition of your engine performance and also if your engine is running too HOT too LEAN or TOO rich.
 

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Anyone use a PCV to Piggyback a FinBro ECM? Similar what you can do for a Flash tune on a modern street bike?

Just thinking for a tune and monitoring stand point……alsowill the Finbro compensate for the need for a lot more fuel and air?

I am thinking sock bore port ect, hindle and 28mm intake with a Finbro?

Thoughts?


 

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A tad bit more info on the EFIE.

I emailed the manufacturer last night and asked what is the amp pull the battery sees. This will be helpful in finding a 12v switched source. SolidJohnny suggested pulling off of the front turn signal relay. A very good safe suggestion.

I did not want another line coming from the headlight area to the battery area. Hence the question I asked.

Here is his answer...

Frankly, I don’t know. Been too many years since I designed the circuit.
But it isn’t much… Maybe 100 milliamps… likely less.


If this is true, you can pull from any switched 12v wire. 100ma 'taint nothing. I think I will pull 12v from the tail light wire. Keeps things tidy.
WV, did this work out for you? I just ordered 1 and will be looking to install in 6 weeks once it gets in. I was think the plate light since that's and easy wire to work with the mnnthbx fender delete
 

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WV, did this work out for you? I just ordered 1 and will be looking to install in 6 weeks once it gets in. I was think the plate light since that's and easy wire to work with the mnnthbx fender delete
Worked like a charm. :big smile:

I believe I threw a 1 amp fuse in there too. Just for shits & giggles.
 

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Perfect, thank you! I planned to have a fuse aswell and will figure out what connectors once it arrives. Was shocked to see it shipped today so it may not take as long as I thought it would.
 

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Reading through this thread (from post #88 on) I see several references to the EFIE that hypothesize that after the initial learning period for the closed loop tables, the ECU may revert to a lean condition after extended periods of time at high RPM open loop operation (>80% throttle).

Has it been firmly established one way or the other that a properly configured EFIE with fully populated closed loop table will revert to lean conditions in extended open loop operation?

Thinking about attempting a SaddleSore 1000 on the Gromlin (1000 miles in <24 hrs), so there would be A LOT of extended WOT. :)


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Reading through this thread (from post #88 on) I see several references to the EFIE that hypothesize that after the initial learning period for the closed loop tables, the ECU may revert to a lean condition after extended periods of time at high RPM open loop operation (>80% throttle).

Has it been firmly established one way or the other that a properly configured EFIE with fully populated closed loop table will revert to lean conditions in extended open loop operation?

Thinking about attempting a SaddleSore 1000 on the Gromlin (1000 miles in <24 hrs), so there would be A LOT of extended WOT. :)


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Best way to check the A/F ratio is to put a O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe and monitor it with the gauge. For me seeing as quite a few people have ridden a stock grom across the USA I think the stock grom would do ok with the OEM ECU. I know Wally and Photogromer who crossed the USA on 2 brand new groms in San Francisco and rode to Florida had lots of freeway/highway miles WOT and nothing happened to the stock engine with stock ECU. Same thing with the couple's riders from Aus or New Zealand who came to the USA to ride their groms on the TWT back roads trails had no problem with their groms. My friend Johnny from Freedom Calif has ridden his grom from Santa Cruz to L.A and back and also from Santa Cruz to Tennessee and back on his stock grom with zero issues.

Make sure to get a good seat for the 1000 mile ride and ride safe.
 

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For me seeing as quite a few people have ridden a stock grom across the USA I think the stock grom would do ok with the OEM ECU.

...

Make sure to get a good seat for the 1000 mile ride and ride safe.
I’m looking at high flow BCM or KOSO air filter, catless OE header, and possibly a cam (KOSO or DCR, based on recommendation from MNNTHBX), hence my research on the EFIE. Motor is otherwise stock with OE rev limit.

Trying to avoid the added cost of AFR monitors (safest route), but I also need to assess and balance the risk of potentially running too lean with those mods and the EFIE spoofer.

ETA: P.S. Just received a Corbin that I got off Craigslist for $138.

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