I would imagine the clutch plates are smoked. If hes going to try and do burnouts and other hoodrat things, he might want to put some heavier springs in it also.
Yeah photogromer dont know shit for installing upgrades, barely a decent motovlogger lmoa...:haha:Does anyone know of any videos showing step-by-step how to change the plates? I tried searching for videos and I can't find a complete video. Photogromer has a video but it's not step-by-step.
Download this so youve got it all.Awesome, that’s a good video, do I need to be torquing to specs? Or can I do quarter turn after it’s tight? I can’t find torque specs anywhere, I saw 46 lbs/ft in the service manual but I’m not sure for which bolts
I never could understand why the paint tabs had to be aligned.Download this so youve got it all.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w33hejgpui3q74s/AADPASwHBprHbHw-F695l8vna?dl=0
You could also just take it back to the dealer and claim ignorance to why its not working. lol.
Semi related, ive got a box of friction plates sitting in my closet, slightly used? I think they are the barnett plates. You can have them for whatever the shipping is.
also, when installing the plates, line up the paint marker on all of them, the different color (blue?) goes to the outside.
Its just to make it easier during assembly. i guess i could have specified that.I never could understand why the paint tabs had to be aligned.
I have never aligned them. I see no reason too, the plates are all the same.
The two outer (?) stock friction plates do have different part numbers compared to the three middle plates, no idea what the difference is though.I see no reason too, the plates are all the same.
Opus hit the nail right on the head.Yes, black means burnt. The pads don't completely disintegrate, they get "Glazed". You'll notice your oil you drained also has a black tint to it now.
In actuality, you only need new friction plates, as the steel plates don't get damaged.