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Hey! I am having some issues with my girlfriends new clutch and was hoping someone could shed some light.

Her 2019 (non-abs) grom is still basically new- as am I to the grom fam- and let’s just say after attempting to learn god forsaken wheelies, the stock clutch said bye bye after 2 months lol. So I went ahead and ordered the EBC SRK122 clutch kit and kitaco 50% stiffer springs. I also went ahead and had the shorty levers put on and.. I’m at a loss as to what’s going on. First off, after adjusting the cable every which way, it seems impossible to get it to the perfect spot. It either lets out way too close or hardly at all. It seems to have lost quite a bit of bite- where with the stock clutch, she was popping decent baby wheelies every single time. Now it just seems kinda bogged down. Not only that but there’s a concerning noise. I only seem to notice it when slowing down/breaking & downshifting with the clutch pulled in. Like to stop at a light. It sounds like knocking to me (though she describes it differently. She says it sounds like her cbr when it has trouble catching 1st last neutral and makes that grinding type sound) and i can even feel it in the gear shift lever. It almost vibrates or knocks with the sound. It only happens when the clutch is disengaged and it’ll do it in any gear. So say I’m in 3rd, if I’m braking and i downshift to 2nd, it may do it. But it doesn’t do this every single time which is what’s throwing me. And if I let the clutch lever go to engage it, it stops and seems to accelerate normally.. although I will say I’ve felt what feels like slight slippage here and there. I don’t know- I’m not very knowledgeable on mechanics and I get my friend to do the work who’s been riding and working on bikes majority of his life but he’s never worked on such a small engine bike before. I definitely trust him and he swears he got it in right and double checked everything but even he is confused and doesn’t know what to do to solve these issues. The now much more difficult wheelies with lost bite in the clutch itself, difficult cable adjustment and this “ta ta ta ta” noise I’m hearing. Any ideas?

I might add we changed the oil to Lucas 10w40 (it’s very warm here) and I think it was semi-synthetic. 1Qt. If that makes a difference.
 

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The teeth in the plate closest to the engine are not engaging the center hub, springs misaligned, or possibly the hub that the spring bolts screw into is cracked.

I have seen a few people, myself included, install billet clutch plates and have one of the springs not sit correctly. You will see the lip poking out of the plate a little bit. A member of this forum had someone put a clutch plate in his bike, he came to me with similar issues, once I popped the cover off it was right there, spring not seated.

The first time I totally took my clutch apart to do the extra plate mod, I messed up and didn't engage the steel to the inner hub right. Couldn't tell you what it sounded like, my clutch lever felt all out of whack and when I took it back apart that's what I figured out.

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first of I tried synthetic oil in my grom and my clutch started slipping like crazy so I dumped out that oil and replaced it with the regular Dino 10/40 honda oil and I had to do about two oil changes before the clutch started working properly.

When replacing clutch parts esp the disc and plates the those parts need to be soaked in a oil bath first for about a hour or so just to get all those parts nice and oily.

When installing the disc and plate onto the basket it should fit nice and perfect down those little slots and the bottom of the basket it has little teeth or sprocket like gears that should mate with the disc assembly unit and when looking at the basket with all the plate/disc in it should be flush with the top of the basket and not higher than the basket.

the hold down nut should be torqued down to about 47 ft/lbs and the six bolts for the clutch springs should be torqued down to about 9ft/lb

there is a drip plate bath unit that is mounted on the bottom of the clutch unit which is held in with two bolts that needs to be checked to make sure it is nice and snug and tight. the drip plate goes in with the clutch assembly unit as one whole unit since the basket has to fit in the plate bath metal curve.

If the basket is installed wrong and is torqued down the base of the basket will crack and cause all sorts of problem.
IMG_4422.JPG

IMG_4423.JPG

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The teeth in the plate closest to the engine are not engaging the center hub, springs misaligned, or possibly the hub that the spring bolts screw into is cracked.

I have seen a few people, myself included, install billet clutch plates and have one of the springs not sit correctly. You will see the lip poking out of the plate a little bit. A member of this forum had someone put a clutch plate in his bike, he came to me with similar issues, once I popped the cover off it was right there, spring not seated.

The first time I totally took my clutch apart to do the extra plate mod, I messed up and didn't engage the steel to the inner hub right. Couldn't tell you what it sounded like, my clutch lever felt all out of whack and when I took it back apart that's what I figured out.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

That spring plate may very well be the problem. I forgot to say we got the billet spring plate (aftermarket one) from Hard Racing to replace the stock one. My friend said the springs were so tough that he had to use a C clamp and the slightest movement made everything shift. He said it definitely wasn’t an “easy” job for him and the flywheel holding tool that was suggest by the site for the job that I ordered was simply not deep enough to make things easy. He said it only gave him about an eighth of an inch to grab and engage when trying to disassemble and reassemble the clutch so I’m wondering is there another tool, possibly made by Honda? better fit for the job.

It is quite hard to describe sounds with only words ??*♀ I guess that’s why myself and my gf describe the “knocking” sound differently. Jason (friend who works on it) said he thought it was simply the stiffer springs trying to engage making that noise. Either that or he was worried that, that sound combined with loss of bite making wheelies and rolling burnouts feel nearly impossible, that metal shavings had gotten into the cylinder. He sent me a picture of the screen when he changed the oil and there were definitely some small shavings on it. So I’m sure there could be/ have been pieces small enough to pass thru that screen which worries me. I feel like the whole oil situation on the bike is such a design flaw but again- I don’t know much about mechanics as a whole. So I’m thinking about ordering the Kitaco clutch cover kit soon to make oil changes easier and to have that filter.

But I will definitely mention all this to him when I take it back to him to try and fix it. Thanks so much for the reply ?
 

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@CiscoSanJose Okay, I’ll drain that oil and change it out to total non-synthetic. How long did you go between changes out of curiosity?

Also, I had to read all that information 3 times to fully understand it all! lol. He did soak the clutch plates and such in oil before hand. But as far as the rest, I cannot speak on simply bc I wasn’t there to see or comment on seating or fitment. So I will pass all of this good information on to him and come back with updates ASAP. Thanks SO much for that info and included pics! ?
 

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here is a trick that I use to keep the clutch and flywheel unit from not spinning while taking off the clutch unit hold down nut or the flywheel nut, I stick a USA quarter between the gear of the crank and the clutch gear, the quarter metal is soft enough that it won't harm the teeth and yet strong enough to let you get those nuts off or on.

good luck
 

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here is a trick that I use to keep the clutch and flywheel unit from not spinning while taking off the clutch unit hold down nut or the flywheel nut, I stick a USA quarter between the gear of the crank and the clutch gear, the quarter metal is soft enough that it won't harm the teeth and yet strong enough to let you get those nuts off or on.

good luck
+1 on the quarter trick. I've done it a couple times with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Awesome. I passed this info on to my friend and I’ll keep it in my mind for myself if/when I attempt to change my own ? thanks so much guys
 

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Good grief! A quarter?

You Cali people must be rich! I only use a penny... :big smile:
 

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I used a quarter today in my work. I heard some horror stories of losing pennies in the depths of motor. Also, laid bike over on a bunch of lounge cushions to keep clutch springs in place while swapping out to heavier springs & billet clutch plate.
 

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Penny is made of copper and softer than a quarter. You’ll destroy the penny but it’s 24 cents cheaper and guaranteed not to harm the gears , lol. That’s my go to for working on the clutch and flywheel.


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Okay so he just took it back apart and looked at everything. He said he doesn't see any issues at all with how it's put together and seated. So here are some pictures that he sent me and asked me to post to find out if anyone could see anything wrong with the clutch. (ignore the fact that the oil catch pan isn't there)

IMG_2293.JPEG IMG_2292.JPEG IMG_2294 (1).JPEG IMG_2296 (1).JPEG IMG_2295 (2).JPEG



He did want to ask what the castle should be torqued to..?

And this is crazy. He just cleaned the oil screen filter literally 20 miles ago and already:
57954611187__B8C5F8B2-9A50-4595-83C2-CA38C3BDCEB6.jpeg if this is kept up, how the heck is it gonna last for more than 2000 miles?! i'm sure that the screen doesn't catch every single tiny piece. I'm pretty blown away by the fact that Honda made something without an oil filter :nonchalance:
 

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It looks like the top plate isn't flush. The tapered edge should be flush with the basket. You have to put it back on the way it came off. I used a marker to mark where it was when I took it apart, but once you find the right position you'll know based on how differently it's sitting in the basket. Look at the 5:10 mark in this video and you'll see what I mean.

 

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He said he watched that exact vid when doing it and just watched it again as hes looking at the parts. Says they're on there properly. Because if you watch when that guy is finished, the whole thing isn't flush. Just the tapered part, and jason is saying the tapered part is in fact flush and that the teeth/splines are together perfectly. He also said he kept the washers separate so they're correct. hmmmmmm...
 

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Damn. I got excited I thought I found the problem.

The bearing is missing from the middle of the spring plate, but he may have just taken it off for the pictures.
 

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Item 12 and item 8 teeth have to mate perfect that will cause the top plate to be flush or else you will have clutch problems which would cause item 8 to crack when you torque down the nut. The nut is torqued down to 47ft/lb
 

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IMG_2300.jpeg he asked if this view helped at all..? lol this is quite difficult via internet. you guys have been super helpful tho. I'm gonna point both of those things out to him really quick :nerd:
 

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Item 12 and item 8 teeth have to mate perfect that will cause the top plate to be flush or else you will have clutch problems which would cause item 8 to crack when you torque down the nut. The nut is torqued down to 47ft/lb
he said "please tell him that item 12 and 8 are seated together perfectly".

and yes, he has the bearing.. just off for pictures :)
 

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The only other advice I have is take everything apart (springs, clutch plates, everything) and do it again. Look at the clutch basket and anything else for cracks.
 

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You can tell you got it together correctly when you tighten the clutch nut and it goes from loose to snug within a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. When using a ratchet starting from hand tight, if you feel "drag" for more than 3/4 turn, stop and recheck how everything is seated.

If you are sure everything is correct, just put it together and see if the clutch lever feels smooth. Then check to see if you are able to feather the engine braking before you fire up the motor.

Regardless, even with an upgraded clutch - Grom's just don't wheelie that easily. You still need to use a lot of body weight and technique, especially if your gear is stock. But yeah there shouldn't be any knocking or grinding noises at all.
 
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