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Update on my daulton sprocket. Recently did a full tear down of my motor and found the sprocket to be wearing somewhat quickly. I have a bit over 8,000 miles on it with a stock valve train reving to 10,500 rpm. That is indeed a raised ridge around the perimeter of the sprocket and the teeth are "swept back" a bit. Was hoping to get more out of it than that. Guess I'll give the koso a try. Really curious about the tension rail set up I've heard mentioned.

 

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Discussion Starter #22
Update pictures of the Koso product.

First pic on the left is the original tensioner on the bottom, next is the Koso unit with second sprocket, next is the kitaco tensioner, above that is the Kitaco tensioner with the rubber sprocket used on the Finbro tensioner, top cam tensioner is with the Dalton bearing sprocket.

The middle pic is the stock cam tensioner on the right, middle is the Koso unit, and on the left is the kitaco with dalton wheel

Pic on the right is the package Koso cam tensioner kit.
IMG_4546.JPG IMG_4547.JPG IMG_4548.JPG
 

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tbh, i was always a bit worried about the thin-ness and deep engagement of the daulton sprocket from mccmaster. the koso looks to be the better alternative, but still think it should be supported on a bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So which one to go with? What a task!
Since I have almost all the variation of the cam chain tensioner in hand, I like the build of the Koso unit followed by the Kitaco unit with either their stock rubber wheel or the upgraded rubber wheel with teeth or the dalton bearing/sprocket setup.
 

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Update pictures of the Koso product.

First pic on the left is the original tensioner on the bottom, next is the Koso unit with second sprocket, next is the kitaco tensioner, above that is the Kitaco tensioner with the rubber sprocket used on the Finbro tensioner, top cam tensioner is with the Dalton bearing sprocket.

The middle pic is the stock cam tensioner on the right, middle is the Koso unit, and on the left is the kitaco with dalton wheel

Pic on the right is the package Koso cam tensioner kit.
View attachment 61138 View attachment 61146 View attachment 61154
Jezus fuck man, how many tensioners have you tried!!!! At some point do you ever ride your bike?!?!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Jezus fuck man, how many tensioners have you tried!!!! At some point do you ever ride your bike?!?!
Did you forget to take your meds

I have 10 motorcycles from HD's, Indian, Hayabusa, ZX6R, and two groms to choose from and I ride all of them but not at the same time. I'm always testing and changing and DIY parts for the grom because it is like working on my drones which I like to test and modify also.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
It's not plastic, right? I assume it's some sort of aluminum or stainless steel.
the arm looks and feels like the same material as what my Kitaco cam chain tensioner arm is made off which is aluminum and the button feels like hard plastic or nylon. The lower sprocket is a little bigger than the sprocket on the arm and when mounting the lower sprocket on the bolt make sure to use the right amount of torque which looks to be a little pass hand tight or else you will snap the bolt.


IMG_4552.JPG
 

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got ours the other day. using a few variants, i'd say this is the best of the bunch.

20170725_190119.jpg

the lower roller is super close to the case, but clears just fine. didn't take note if the stock roller is this close as well
20170725_190105.jpg

for what it's worth, here's a comparison to the finbro tensioner which the koso replaced. the finbro has about 5k miles and it held up well. some wear by the sides of the teeth, but less than expected.
20170725_184127.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #35
got ours the other day. using a few variants, i'd say this is the best of the bunch.

View attachment 61442

the lower roller is super close to the case, but clears just fine. didn't take note if the stock roller is this close as well
View attachment 61450

for what it's worth, here's a comparison to the finbro tensioner which the koso replaced. the finbro has about 5k miles and it held up well. some wear by the sides of the teeth, but less than expected.
View attachment 61458
what torque did you use on the second bolt/sprocket, I used more than 5ft/lb and snapped the bolt and I was lucky and able to remove the bolt that was still in the case.
 

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what torque did you use on the second bolt/sprocket, I used more than 5ft/lb and snapped the bolt and I was lucky and able to remove the bolt that was still in the case.
torqued to what was listed on the koso manual. didn't cross reference to the honda manual, but i'd assume it's the same. either way, it was not much, 96 in/lb comes to mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
torqued to what was listed on the koso manual. didn't cross reference to the honda manual, but i'd assume it's the same. either way, it was not much, 96 in/lb comes to mind.
looks like Koso recommends 7 ft/lb on the bolt of the second sprocket and 11 ft/lb on the arm, That 7 ft/lb still snapped the bolt, I must have had a bad bolt.
 

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looks like Koso recommends 7 ft/lb on the bolt of the second sprocket and 11 ft/lb on the arm, That 7 ft/lb still snapped the bolt, I must have had a bad bolt.
that's the torque i used. the 96 in/lb was for the case bolts.

did you use a ft/lb or in/lb torque wrench. i always use an in/lb for torque under 20lbs as it's more accurate. then again, maybe bad bolt.
 

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Update on my daulton sprocket. Recently did a full tear down of my motor and found the sprocket to be wearing somewhat quickly. I have a bit over 8,000 miles on it with a stock valve train reving to 10,500 rpm. That is indeed a raised ridge around the perimeter of the sprocket and the teeth are "swept back" a bit. Was hoping to get more out of it than that. Guess I'll give the koso a try. Really curious about the tension rail set up I've heard mentioned.

Where did you buy the Daulton sprocket please let me know
 
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