[Gremlin]

So I'm curious. I have a little understanding on how to install new brake lines and bleed the line, but can anyone shed some light on the topic?

I want to learn and get my hands dirty.

I bought core moto brake lines.
(Just to try them out)

So... I drain all brake fluid remove old
Lines. Install new lines then bleed?
tube to the bleed cap and squeeze brake and loosen the bleed line and tighten then release brake? Then repeat?


Sent from my iPhone using HondaGrom.net mobile app

 

[banks619]

Pretty much. Make sure your reservoir is full.


Sent from my iPhone using HondaGrom.net

 

[HardRacing]

Takes patience and thorough-ness but not a hard task. AS Banks posted, keep the Resv full or all your efforts may end up for naught.

Also keep painted parts covered as brake fluid is wicked to them


.

 

[brandonryan]

took me about 15min per line to get all the bubbles out.

Do this sequence about 10x

pump X20 HOLD DOWN on pump #20
Crack open bleeder ( Your lever is still being held down)
quickly tighten bleeder
then release the lever

 

[Gremlin]

Sweet! Really appreciate the replies
I'll let you know how the core moto lines feels.

This what I went with:

Sent from my iPhone using HondaGrom.net mobile app

 

[brandonryan]

just keep in mind the 3 worst things you can do.

#1 Let your Resivor get low and it starts sucking air back down into the line.
#2 Letting go of your lever while the bleeder is open sucking air up through the bleeder.
#3 not getting your banjo bolt tight so the crush washers leak letting air and the line to loose pressure.

as long as you keep in mind its a LONG and Tedious process but requires NO special tools you will do fine

and remember its DOT4 fluid. not the standard automotive DOT3

 

[slevin]

best $35 a ever spent.

Mityvac MV8020 Brake Bleeding Kit

 

[The Sovereign]

Brandon what did you torque yours to? Assuming you changed to aluminum banjo.

 

[brandonryan]

i didnt actually use a torque gauge. Ive messed with so many banjo fittings over the years
i kinda got a feel for what it takes to get those crush washers to seat down nice.

i knew the aluminum banjos are soft so i didnt want to jack them up. was a little more cautious
then using the conventional ones.

 

[deddie]

15 foot pounds

 

[The Sovereign]

I did 14. They're not "leaking" but when I feel em they feel kinda slick I guess. Speigler directions said max 14.75.

 

[Gremlin]

DOT 4? Why? I had a un opened DOT 3 so that's what I used. Is that not good? It says in the manual dot 3 or dot 4. What's the difference? Should I change it?


Sent from my iPhone using HondaGrom.net mobile app

 

[brandonryan]

The cap on the brake cylinder says DOT4.
IDK if it matters. i know it has to do with temperature.

 

[The Sovereign]

Manuel does say 3 or 4

 

[arunto]

best $35 a ever spent.

Mityvac MV8020 Brake Bleeding Kit

I use the mityvac as well and it only takes about 5 mins to do a full bleed.

 

[Kricu]

I've actually had it suggested to me that instead of going from the reservoir down to the bleeder valve, you add brake fluid to the bleeder valve via something along the lines of a modified turkey baster. Not sure if anybody has tried this method or not. Seems a little odd to me.

 

[banks619]

I've actually had it suggested to me that instead of going from the reservoir down to the bleeder valve, you add brake fluid to the bleeder valve via something along the lines of a modified turkey baster. Not sure if anybody has tried this method or not. Seems a little odd to me.

Seems counterproductive.


Sent from my iPhone using HondaGrom.net

 

[konajesse]

Seems counterproductive.


Sent from my iPhone using HondaGrom.net

Air rises, so pushing brake fluid in to your calipers' bleeder, which is lower then the master, forces air up to your master and out. But be careful brake fluid makes plastic very brittle and crack.

 

[The_Outrider]

I use the mityvac as well and it only takes about 5 mins to do a full bleed.

By far, the preferred method.

I'd teardown the master cylinder & caliper assembly for thorough cleaning...i.e. complete removal of every last trace of the glycol-based brake fluid...then fill the system with D.O.T. 5, from scratch. Conventional brake fluid is not only murder on paint, it promotes rust, inside the cylinders. Silicone brake fluid solves both problems.

 

[Grom'n-BR]

By far, the preferred method.

I'd teardown the master cylinder & caliper assembly for thorough cleaning...i.e. complete removal of every last trace of the glycol-based brake fluid...then fill the system with D.O.T. 5, from scratch. Conventional brake fluid is not only murder on paint, it promotes rust, inside the cylinders. Silicone brake fluid solves both problems.

then why would Honda not list dot5 as an option?
im not familiar with brake fluid at all...
any drawbacks to using dot5 over the manual recommendation?