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All buttoned up! Test ride went awesome, the close ratios of the 5 speed was what I was hoping for and more!
The Take 5 speed is very nice indeed, just wish 1st was a tiny bit shorter...
Looking at the pic I see you still have the stock O2 sensor. Is it there just as a plug or is it used?
 

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Discussion Starter #242 (Edited)
The Take 5 speed is very nice indeed, just wish 1st was a tiny bit shorter...
Looking at the pic I see you still have the stock O2 sensor. Is it there just as a plug or is it used?
You know, never considered the stock O2 sensor and what to do w/ it since switching to Aracer so long ago. I am using a wideband and the Aracer AF1 module to tune. TBH, not sure if the stock O2 sensor is doing jack, since the stock ECU is gone. I guess I didn't want to potentially throw a code - if that even is the case.

Right now running 15/34 with the 5 speed, gear 2 and 3 are insane, the engine spins up so fast that when you go from 1st to 2nd, and pin it, it revs so fast I almost thought the clutch was slipping the first few times. I swear is sounds eerily similar to VTEC. Can't wait to get my head ported.
 

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You know, never considered the stock O2 sensor and what to do w/ it since switching to Aracer so long ago. I am using a wideband and the Aracer AF1 module to tune. TBH, not sure if the stock O2 sensor is doing jack, since the stock ECU is gone. I guess I didn't want to potentially throw a code - if that even is the case.
I'm using the Aracer Mini 5 and replaced my stock O2 sensor with a plug. So far, no codes.

O2 Plug.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #245

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Discussion Starter #246 (Edited)


Taking the Grom where some say it shouldn't be taken - over 75mph. I'm sure the dude on the big bike had a good laugh when I passed him.

Merry Xmas everyone, ride safe and enjoy the Holidays with the ones you love.
 

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Discussion Starter #247
It's almost summer, and after moving into a new place and time away from my Grom, I've got a few more upgrades planned in the very new future.

- MNNTHBX swingarm bushings - most excited for these.
- Race number plate - If anyone knows which LED lightbar will fit underneath perfectly let me know!
- Throttle body port - time to squeeze more power from my 4v.
- Renthal Fatbar Clamps - Using conversion risers right now, want the bar a bit lower and 5mm offset is welcome.

Then the plan is to ride it! Going to take it to Apex kart track once I get my shifting issues sorted out.

Debating the Yuminashi cam chain tensioner and flat timing chain, seems like a good upgrade for these high revving heads.

Here's a current picture of the bike:

 

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Discussion Starter #248
A new project was started a few weeks ago, 2015 KTM RC390. It won't get too out of hand like the Grom build, I've promised myself, LOL.



The Grom is awaiting a longer Chimera swing arm bolt, with the swing arm bushings, the old one is too short for comfort.
 

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Discussion Starter #249
Bike is running strong. No complaints. Knock on wood, I think I solved my problem of the bike shifting into neutral from 1-2.

Bike is due for an oil change, at which point ill pop off both covers for a cursory inspection. Entertaining the idea of the DROW 181cc BBK.

Right now, vibrations are the problem I'm tackling. The Hindle high mount does generate a good amount of buzz at the seat, and with the Saddlemens shape, it touched a part of my ass that it ends up making totally numb on longer rides.

Any tips on reducing vibes? I was thinking of rubber washers first between the can mount and the frame tab.
 

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Discussion Starter #251
Curious at what you did to solve your shifting issues.
It ended up being the shift arm angle. Perfectly perpendicular to the ground ended up doing it. Making a 90deg angle with the shift rod and arm was my previous approach for some reason. I feel like it made sens in my head. Now that I also use GP shift, i find it much easier to apply positive force when shifting from 1 to 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #252
Brembo 4P caliper purchased, time for a much needed upgrade to the stoppers.
 

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Discussion Starter #253
Brembos fitted, just need a new banjo bolt and to bleed. They sure do look the business. Great deal at ~$130 to my door BNIB.




 

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Discussion Starter #254 (Edited)
Bled the master and caliper to my satisfaction. First time bleeding my own brakes, no mityvac used. Was pretty challenging to get good lever feel.

But - the stock master is totally up to the task. I am using SS lines. Great modulation and firm feel.



I think the Brembo caliper looks AWESOME!
 

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Discussion Starter #255
Brembo P34 and BRAKING rotor installed. Hope this brake line routing isnt an issue!
 

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Brembo P34 and BRAKING rotor installed. Hope this brake line routing isnt an issue!
You will be the first to know if it is an issue!:toothy9:
 

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What is the benefit for running the rear caliper on the bottom? Is it primarily for lowering the center of gravity? It just seems very vulnerable to damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #258 (Edited)
What is the benefit for running the rear caliper on the bottom? Is it primarily for lowering the center of gravity? It just seems very vulnerable to damage.
No benefit, it just so happened that the cheapest P34 rear adapter on SteadyGarage was a bottom mounted design. It looks like a copy of the TYGA design.

I was unsure of how I would like the look - but it looks pretty cool. It is a lot more exposed down there...

 

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Discussion Starter #259 (Edited)
Latest updates: G-Craft damper bracket and some cheap Chinese Z900 damper kit. It comes withe the Stage 3 Hyperpro style clamp so everything lines up. Damping adjustment works, only time will tell if it doesn't corrode or leak prematurely.



Rear brake finally bled with the help of a bleeder banjo bolt. Love the look of the underside caliper now.





Type B number plate installed. It looks meh where I mounted it...would look better with the OEM speedo shroud.



I do like how the angle of the plate matches the side fairing. It looks quite angular and sporty.



Next up is a proper wide 7/8 bar since I have to use the OEM bar mounts with the G-Craft damper bracket.
 

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It ended up being the shift arm angle. Perfectly perpendicular to the ground ended up doing it. Making a 90deg angle with the shift rod and arm was my previous approach for some reason. I feel like it made sens in my head. Now that I also use GP shift, i find it much easier to apply positive force when shifting from 1 to 2.
Was difficult to find neutral with the short arm included with my rearsets so I've just swapped out to a longer one. Will see how it shifts. I've left it perpendicular to ground as well for now. 90/90 is what I've done on the Duke but that's really my only reference. It does work there though.



 
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