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So I just want to share my experience with my Honda Grom engine upgrade kit that I purchased from HardRacing.com. Posting this just in case anyone else is needing a little help if they are having this same issue.

Purchased items: Takegawa 181cc BBK, MNNTHBX Exhuast (not purchased from HR), PCV, Takegawa camshaft, WIDEBAND 2 and the POD-300


so long story short. I installed the BBK to my Grom, by following the step by step video. I also installed the PCV and wideband 2 following hard racings video. I reseted my engine codes, ECU and TPS as told to do so. I put the MAP given to me by HardRacing to my PCV. Which comes with these Target AFRs programmed to them:
image.jpeg

Well my bike did not like this at all. I couldn't hold idle on cold starts, would have to hold the throttle at about 40% throttle. My battery was taking a hard hit on cranking the bike up. I even adjusted the air screw and throttle screw on the throttle body when the bike was at temp to get that perfect idle. But after letting it cool down and turning it back on, it would idle way to high. So I would have to mess with the trottle body again.

My bike at idle was giving me a AFR of over 25.1. Which if I understand correctly isn't good at all for a BBK. When trying to take off in first gear it would stutter bad to accelerate. This was in first and second gears. Felt like I was on a bull and holding on for dear life. My AFRs were also very high in these gears. At 3rd and 4th gear my AFR was also between 18.3-23.1. I wasn't getting the performance I was suppose to get.

So I started emailing HardRacing.com. Asking them for help, but most of the answers didn't help much with the situation. They were pretty much "I don't knows". Don't get me wrong, they did respond to every email I sent and trust me, it was more then average. I told them that my AFR wasn't adjusting to the correct AFRs. So they said to check that everything is hooked up correctly to my PCV and WideBand. I checked and double checked and even disconnected and reconnected everything. Still nothing changed. I also couldn't save new trims from riding. Wouldn't even get trims. I emailed about that and it was another "IDK" answer. So I decided to take apart the whole engine again to make sure that I clocked the piston rings correctly, just in case that could be the reason. Everything checked out great, all my rings were clocked correctly. Still no change after reassembling the engine. Bike was running horribe, couldn't even keep an idle at red lights at times.


MY SOLUTION:

I decided to contact Power Commanders tech team. BEST IDEA EVER! I told them what was going on and what I have done and everything has failed. So they remote into my computer and take a look at my map. The tech wasn't to happy with the way the map was setup. He showed me why i wasn't being able to save trims and he stated that the map was not setup good. He adjusted my map while I let the bike idle. This is what we ended up with :

image.jpeg

Bike now runs GREAT!!! No issues whatsoever. Keeps idle at cold start, battery isn't taking a hard hit no more. Starts right up. Taking off in 1st gear is super smooth. Shifting is super smooth. AFRs are staying Where they suppose to. I'm getting the performance that is expected from this BBK. Thanks to the power commander tech team for all the help. They actually made it possible to enjoy riding my bike again. So if anyone one is having this same issue. Contact power commander, they know there stuff.
 

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Contact power commander, they know there stuff.
Haha, I would hope so. That's cool they helped you the way they did. Not many companies have a customer service team capable of understanding their product. Usually a handful of people design it and no one else knows WTF is going on. That's awesome. Hats off to Power Commander!
 

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Print screen button next time. :)
Or use the snipping tool (if youre not using xp).

Glad to see that dynojet told someone to set an AFR in the 0-60 range. Tuning wont be perfect as youre still going to work against the stock ECU (a bit), so after an ECU reset, it may not run excellent off the bat. You can ground out the O2 wire to disable the stock ECU's tuning, and make it easier on yourself, but... it will throw a check engine light/error code after a bit.
If you choose not to ground it, set your WB2's lambda output/switchover point to 13.2 afr (0.9 lambda), as that is what your have your Map set to in that 0-60 range.
 

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its because your stock ecu didn't have time to adjust back and then the wb2 adjust. soon enough it will be fighting itself. It takes time BUT if its woking for you.. cool.
 

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Instead of messing with the target AFR's, I added fuel to the map itself 0-60%, and after a few short rides it would richen itself right up and I took out the added fuel 5-10 at a time until it was back to all zeros and my AFRs were dead on. Same issue, different solution.
 
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