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· Registered
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a planning and project thread for my project bike that is already pretty overbuilt turned-up grom. This thread is the documentation starting from version two, as I did not document version one.

Here is the current state
Disassembled as of Dec 2022:
Tire Wheel Automotive lighting Automotive tire Vehicle
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive lighting

  • 2020 Honda MSX starting point
  • Protaper KLX 110
  • Domino Grips and universal throttle (Will need adjustment and the ends soldered)
  • Two Motogadget 3 button bar controls wired through the bar
  • Koso DB-03r Dash
  • Womet 2 finger levers
  • Stock hydraulic brake cylinder
  • Takegawa hydraulic clutch cylinder
  • Venhil Steal braided brake lines
  • Stock triple tree
  • Custom triple bar STEDI light array (needs to be redesigned as the eBay braces are not appropriately angled)
  • Motogadget front signals (need to be remounted when the bracket is rebuilt)
  • Racing Bros adjustable front fork shock system
  • Racing Bros external reservoir rear shock (Paint had some rust and flaking issues. Working with the dealer to replace within warranty)
  • Corbin custom raised grom seat
  • TST tail plate and integrated tail light
  • Anti-Gravity Battery
  • Custom loom hand built (there were some major issues with this v1 loom which will be remediated in future versions)
    • ECU reset button
    • tracker wired in
    • ABS Delete
    • DoctorSpeed Spedo healer (This may be getting replaced as the dash has a speedo healer, and the ABS has been deleted)
    • Underglow light pods
    • Complete AC circuit delete
  • Mototgadget M-Unit (used for controlling large parts of the loom in v1, v2 loom will be limited to ignition and lighting only running it's on a separately built loom)
  • Dynojet PowerCommander V EFI Piggyback (this is being replaced with the Microsquirt)
  • Dynojet Wideband 2 O2 Controller (This may be getting reused if compatible with Microsquirt but will likely be replaced with something more compact and lower power draw)
  • Dynojet AFR gauge (will be replaced along with the controller if necessary)
  • Takegawa Oil Catch Can
  • Digerbuilt titanium 34 Race Intake and high-flow air filter
  • 34mm Big throttle body
  • Kitaco 181cc NEO 2v
  • Takegawa Super Cam Chain Tensioner
  • Takegawa Oil Pump Upgrade (Doesn't have the wheelie oil snorkel)
  • Upgraded Stator from Steady Garage
  • Takegawa 5 Speed TAF Close Ratio gearbox
  • Takegawa Slipper Clutch
  • SMR 6 Disc Clutch
  • Kitaco 60% Clutch Springs (yes, heavy springs and a slipper clutch, it needs to be dialed in, but downshifts are smoother while the clutch bites hard on acceleration)
  • Takegawa hydraulic clutch cover (spinner delete, filter add)
  • GCraft Tank less Kit rear brake tank
  • TYGA Rear Sets (These may get replaced I don't really like their design)
  • Yoshimura RS-07 titanium exhaust and header (O2 bung added identifying that the header pipe is not Ti)
  • Upgraded sprockets and chain (these will be getting replaced with this build)
  • Billet chain adjusters (these will be getting removed and sent to my bike in Thailand)
  • GCraft Engine Plate
  • Dingerbuilt ceramic bearings (only the fronts and the rears blew out and did damage to my rear wheel. It's unclear if this was related to a baring defect or installation issue)
  • Michelin Power Pure tires
What I learned
  • Wiring is hard.
  • Good wiring is VERY HARD.
  • Running a piggyback ECU modulator works but is very fiddly. I spent most of summer 2022 constantly trying to fix my tune.
  • The groms are VERY limited on spare battery power.
  • Almost all of my parts worked together, but anything touching the loom was a bad day. I considered returning to a stock loom, but ultimately, there were too many changes.
  • Grom Stators are two wire which makes playing with that system hard. I recommend using the stock Reg/Rec, as I have yet to identify a DC-only Reg/Rec that works with the grom stator.

What's Coming In Version Two
  • G-craft Big Triple square frame
  • G-craft Single Sided Swing Arm
  • G-craft Aluminium Side Stand
  • G-craft Side Stand Holder
  • ShiftUp Rear Brake Disc
  • Kitaco 32T Rear Sprocket
  • Loom V2 (More details on this to come)
    • Seperate Lighting and EFI Looms
    • MicroSquirt Speeduino Teensy 4.1 with custom board design
    • Active AC -> DC Rectifier (Design schematics to come)
      • Buck/Boost converter on custom board (Design schematics to come)
    • Wideband Controler (I need to identify a low draw controler) This may get built into the ECU boards
    • Connect up digital speed on KOSO to front wheel sensor if possible
  • (optional) Brembo brakes
  • (optional) Brembo radial mastercylinder (might get two for the clutch)

· Registered
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Loom V2
  • Main Power
    • Tracker
    • Starter motor
    • Ignition coil
    • Battery
  • Loom Backbone
    • Dash Loom
    • Intake Air Temp Sensor
    • Engine Oil Sensor
    • Microsquirt
    • Wideband O2 controler
    • Fast idle solenoid valve switch
    • Throttle position sensor
    • Fuel pump
    • Rear brake switch
    • Fuel level sensor
    • Fuel injector
    • Starter motor
    • Ignition coil trigger
    • RPM sensor
    • Microsquirt programming port
    • Horn
    • Kickstand cutoff
    • Brake Light
    • Running Light
    • Turn L
    • Turn R
  • Dash Loom
    • Headlights
    • Turn L
    • Turn R
    • High beam
    • Ground
    • Button cluster inputs
      • Start button
      • Kill switch
    • Speed sensor input frontwheel (If it will work)
    • Brake switch
    • Clutch switch
    • Dash Plug
      • RPM Output
      • EODB Light (Check Engine)
      • Turn L
      • Turn R
      • High beam
      • Neutral light
      • Speed sensor output
      • Oil temp sensor output
      • Fuel gauge output.

· Registered
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What levers did you find to fit the takegawa clutch MC? Womet? If so, what model?
It's a swap, takegawa has an adjustable hydraulic clutch lever that has the same base as the WOMET-TECH shorties (LCB52E-BK) ones.

I just swiped the shiny side with the right base to match the master cylinder. I believe the Takegawa part number is 02-01-0062 but my Japanese is based on google translate.
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