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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have LED headlight
No more hi beam indicator

Currently led headlight is run DC off the battery with a switch in line. Wire replaces yellow wire in the diagram going into the hi/lo switch. I don't think there is enough wattage?/resistance? going through the hi beam side to trip the indicator. Is there anything I can do wiring wise to make the indicator work. It is not a huge deal as it is pretty obvious when the hi beam is on but I'd like my little blue light anyway if it is possible.

Also I am considering running power to the headlight off the black wire coming off the DC10A fuse running to the tail light. Is there any good reason I shouldn't do this and should just keep my current wiring?
 

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Doing the DC conversion disables the high beam indicator as the light is designed for AC. If you want to retain it you could send it in to tripage. I have an add-a-fuse from my switched ignition going to the yellow wires previously on the rectifier that made things simple, but again no high beam indicator.

Have LED headlight
No more hi beam indicator

Currently led headlight is run DC off the battery with a switch in line. Wire replaces yellow wire in the diagram going into the hi/lo switch. I don't think there is enough wattage?/resistance? going through the hi beam side to trip the indicator. Is there anything I can do wiring wise to make the indicator work. It is not a huge deal as it is pretty obvious when the hi beam is on but I'd like my little blue light anyway if it is possible.

Also I am considering running power to the headlight off the black wire coming off the DC10A fuse running to the tail light. Is there any good reason I shouldn't do this and should just keep my current wiring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
@Cisco I am running H4.
@Makg I would prefer to do a mod myself than sending my gauge in, if the bulb will only run on AC current I suppose I need to try wiring in an electrical relay activated by DC that closes an AC circuit to the indicator. I am looking to make everything quick disconnect from under the seat without taking fairings off, I want it to be painless to return to stock, which is why I was planning on tapping into the DC wire to the tail light with a weatherproof connector. I don't want to go that route if someone has a horror story of wires getting too hot and causing problems though.
 

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@Cisco I am running H4.
@Makg I would prefer to do a mod myself than sending my gauge in, if the bulb will only run on AC current I suppose I need to try wiring in an electrical relay activated by DC that closes an AC circuit to the indicator. I am looking to make everything quick disconnect from under the seat without taking fairings off, I want it to be painless to return to stock, which is why I was planning on tapping into the DC wire to the tail light with a weatherproof connector. I don't want to go that route if someone has a horror story of wires getting too hot and causing problems though.
like I said I'm running a turbo V16 LED H4 bulbs on two 2014 groms with zero mods to the electrical wiring or circuit and I can see both hi/lo beam and my high beam indicator comes on. Only upgrades to both groms electrical system was 2017 rectifier and stator.

I would put the stock bulb back on just to see if the high beam indicator comes on if not than the indicator light is burnt or there is a wiring problem in the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I wired a SPST NO 12vDC relay to close an AC circuit to the hi beam indicator when the new DC circuit is running power to the hi beam. It works perfect. If anyone wants more information I am confident I could do a more detailed write up with pictures should any interest be shown.

Here is the relay I used https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/relay-and-resistors/novita-relay-and-resistors/849394_0_0
Here is the bulb I am using https://www.ebay.com/itm/182953356941?

Here is a quick rundown of the setup
1) Led headlight is powered from the battery on a switch
2) All original wiring to the regulator/rectifier remains intact
3) Yellow wire is cut at 14pin connector for left side controls and new DC wire is patched in running into the hi/lo switch
4) Live AC side of yellow wire is run to relay on switched side
5) Blue wire is cut going into the gauge cluster
6) Blue wire on gauge cluster side runs to relay on switched side
7) Other side of blue wire is run to activate relay
8) Ground the relay to any ground (I used the horn ground because it is easily accessible)

If you do this I highly recommend you use weatherproof connectors on everything so it is simple to return to stock, you will also need some wire to extend the connections to meet the relay. I only had red and black but am planning on redoing it at some point with the correct color wires.
 

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Hi, I am having the same problem! I wired in two spotlights to the front as I use my bike for work at nights, I soldered a wire to the headlight highbeam wire and ran that to my led lights, I then took a live to the two yellow wires in the regulator and soldered them together, The lights work lovely but no high beam indicator, I presumed I had damaged the circuit somewhere!
I will look at your instructions more carefully and give this a try.
thanks. Woody73
 

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I wired a SPST NO 12vDC relay to close an AC circuit to the hi beam indicator when the new DC circuit is running power to the hi beam. It works perfect. If anyone wants more information I am confident I could do a more detailed write up with pictures should any interest be shown.

Here is the relay I used https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/relay-and-resistors/novita-relay-and-resistors/849394_0_0
Here is the bulb I am using https://www.ebay.com/itm/182953356941?

Here is a quick rundown of the setup
1) Led headlight is powered from the battery on a switch
2) All original wiring to the regulator/rectifier remains intact
3) Yellow wire is cut at 14pin connector for left side controls and new DC wire is patched in running into the hi/lo switch
4) Live AC side of yellow wire is run to relay on switched side
5) Blue wire is cut going into the gauge cluster
6) Blue wire on gauge cluster side runs to relay on switched side
7) Other side of blue wire is run to activate relay
8) Ground the relay to any ground (I used the horn ground because it is easily accessible)

If you do this I highly recommend you use weatherproof connectors on everything so it is simple to return to stock, you will also need some wire to extend the connections to meet the relay. I only had red and black but am planning on redoing it at some point with the correct color wires.
Hi. I saw your post regarding the high beam indicator. I have a 2022 Honda Navi that I did the acdc conversion by running a7.5 Amp fused line from battery to the two brown wires for head and tail light by the rectifier. I lost my high beam indicator. I need help with a fix. Thanks.
 
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