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My 5 axis was extremely loud too but a couple straight cut cam gears means even more soundtrack for the Kitaco.

Can you elaborate on valve adjustment? Have the lashes changed yet during break in?

Lastly, what type of speeds are you getting?
Oh, speed. Uhm, 'i am a law abiding citizen who always follows the posted road speed as advised' and have never, ever gotten my 16/31 gearing to bang off the limiter at 12k in 5th gear. Ever.
 

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2020 Honda Monkey and others
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Oh, speed. Uhm, 'i am a law abiding citizen who always follows the posted road speed as advised' and have never, ever gotten my 16/31 gearing to bang off the limiter at 12k in 5th gear. Ever.
That is well over 100 mph with that gearing if you have the Takegawa 5 speed(same top speed ratio as factory 4th).

Now regarded that my Takegawa 4 valve 5 axis ported setup was tuned like utter crap thanks to A-Racer auto tune instructions/function, I could never get 5th gear on level ground near redline.

The performance faded really fast due to improper tune as well as wrong ring gap.

If you can hit rev limiter with that gearing that thing must rip.

Plan on any video footage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Oh, speed. Uhm, 'i am a law abiding citizen who always follows the posted road speed as advised' and have never, ever gotten my 16/31 gearing to bang off the limiter at 12k in 5th gear. Ever.
...

LOL ...

Of course you are. ;-)
 

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Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Fuel tank


Thought I'd give an update on the build so far.
Swapped the kitaco cover,.oil cooler, and catch can for a takegawa setup since the temps weren't where I wanted it (103-109c WoT) and I was spraying oil everywhere cause the can kept filling up.
The takegawa cover has a cool feature that can let you increase or decrease the oil pressure a little (if you know someone with a lathe), and the thinner oil lines definitely make a huge difference in exchanging the oil from the cooler.
Temps now about 98-103c WoT and what I was aiming for.
The catch can can return some oil back and has extra channels so I can add the relief to the head and keep the floor of my garage oil free,.so big help there.
Next is a new throttle body/manifold setup (and back to the machine shop for a port match), adjust injector if necessy, play with some exhausts to see if I can lose some dB, and finally stick the dry clutch on.
 

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Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive design Motor vehicle Bumper


Did a valve adjustment today.
It was surprisingly easy. Took about 45 minutes start to finish.
Intake was on the tight side of the spec. Exhaust was way tight, not sure why.
Got it sorted out and humming along. I'll be checking them every 1k till I get an idea of what the service intervals will be like.
 

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Did a valve adjustment today.
It was surprisingly easy. Took about 45 minutes start to finish.
Intake was on the tight side of the spec. Exhaust was way tight, not sure why.
Got it sorted out and humming along. I'll be checking them every 1k till I get an idea of what the service intervals will be like.
What is the procedure to make the adjustments?
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
.
Your bike is so sick.
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
PMsent I’ll buy this! But can you do it in AUD? and send it to
Australia? How much is it 2500usd = $3,400 AUD
.

Please send an email to our sales dept. and they will be more then happy to get you taken care of.

.
 

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Tire Wheel Fuel tank Plant Automotive fuel system


Figured I'd do a 6k mile update.
The DOHC is still running like a monster. If you goose the throttle just right, the front end comes straight up. Looks like my valves need adjustment around 3k miles after the first 1k break in adjustment I did. I hammer the hell out of this when I ride it (which is not often cause I like being able to hear things) and haven't had a single issue other than needing to stiffen up my front end.
Completely happy with the build overall, stupid fun to ride, and gets you all the wrong kinds of attention when you have to go through the neighborhood.
I'm going to park it once this hawaii summer is over as I have a fresh set of panels and rotors I want to put on, change out my tired and cracked belly pan, do something with the handlebars (for the keen eyed, those are the stock bars off a sportster), and maybe send my corbin back to the factory for a restitch.
I know I mentioned I was going to post a dyno-chart of the bike as-is, and I think that's probably a really bad idea as it will give the totally wrong impression and set an unrealistic expectation of what you think you'd be buying. I wish I took the time to do a dyno of the engine as it was shipped from the factory, that would be a better baseline and a fair comparison to other BBK's available.
I do know that if you install it with a takegawa big throttle kit (28mm ports match perfectly), a hindle, and a good tune, you'll immediately shear the woodruff key when taking it to the dyno.
If you do all of the above AND put in a slipper clutch, you'll get just about 24ish HP and a 12k rev ceiling before power falls off.

I've spent a little bit more than is reasonable and done more than is sane to my build and I am completely and utterly satisfied with my final power numbers. There's still room to get more, and I know some guys who definitely ARE getting more from their DOHC than I am, but I made more than what I was hoping for and am satisfied with the results.
 
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