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Took the plunge and got one. My neo has well over 30k on it, so I'm sold on Kitacos ability to design a great, long lasting setup. After opening it up and doing inspection/inventory, my only criticism is that the casting in the intake and exhaust is a little on the rough side. Not horrible, just could be as good as the neo. It's off to a head shop to get it port matched and cleaned up a little.
Hoping to have it in it's new case next week and in a bike by the weekend. I'll follow up after I've broken it in. View attachment 90705
Can you elaborate and take pics on how the valve adjustment works?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·


Really eager to see a build video, some dyno results, some real world road testing and durability reports.
.

Totally agreed with what they said. ;-)

.
 

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Took the plunge and got one. My neo has well over 30k on it, so I'm sold on Kitacos ability to design a great, long lasting setup. After opening it up and doing inspection/inventory, my only criticism is that the casting in the intake and exhaust is a little on the rough side. Not horrible, just could be as good as the neo. It's off to a head shop to get it port matched and cleaned up a little.
Hoping to have it in it's new case next week and in a bike by the weekend. I'll follow up after I've broken it in.
Is it running? Would love to hear about the experience.

Particularly how it pulls compared to the Neo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
It’s like that everybody who bought this had to sign a NDA…….no reviews at all

LOL.. they will come. Give them time.

We've asked all our customers to post.
Unfortunately, people have their priorities. Posting on a forum may not be top of their list. ;-)

But, we totally understand what you are saying.


.
 

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This was the reason I did my Takegawa 4 valve 5 axis build to get some public info out there. Too bad A-Racer tuning isn't as prescribed in the various instructions. If I do another big build I'll take it to a tuner to properly dial it before running it.
 

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90871


I've just finished putting 1k miles on the build so I thought I'd share the experience so far.

First off, it's fast. Makes a surprising amount of torque down low (I changed from a Neo with 30k miles to this) and the delivery is pretty linear till 9k. After that it's starts howling and you get another surge of power that carries it up to 12k rpm on 16/32.

Second, it's loud. The head makes noise. Alot of noise. It's a rythmic, mechanical clicking that turns into an urgent humming the faster you go. Which is nearly a non-issue because;

Thirdly, it's LOUD! At idle the exhaust is like a sledgehammer. On load and under power there might as well be an orchestra of jackhammers following you around. I've tried a combination of different exhausts trying to find something quieter that will still let it breathe and the best you can hope for is an exhaust tone you can live with for stretches at a time.

Initial impressions out of the way, the build was surprisingly smooth.
I had prepared a fresh short block with a kitaco crank and 5 speed well before I ordered the kit.
I know it comes with a crank, but shelving it as a spare wasn't a big deal and the time saved was well worth it.
My first thoughts on inspecting the components was one of appreciation for the craftsmanship. The cam gears were impressively cut and finished, the assembly was pretty well thought out with a complete removal, tear down, and reassembly possible in under 2 hours from start to finish at a leisurely pace.
The instructions (in English) were easy to follow. Would appreciate a color pdf, but the b/w photocopies did the job.
The biggest letdown was the ports. Intake and exhaust were at a choking 28/22(sh) and the throats, seperators, and seats were hella rough cast. I've worked on the 5-axis engines and was pretty shocked at what I was looking at. After a few moments of mouthing 'wtf' over and over again, it kind of hit me that it looks like you're supposed to do your own porting. The intake has multiple clocking points set in the bore so it makes sense to pick, choose, and machine what you want to work with. After talking to some friends from my old car scene, we found a combo that looks like it would work on paper, came up with a porting plan that was safe based around 31/29. I wanted to go bigger in the intake, but saner heads prevailed when they explained I still had to break it in.
I used a kitaco race exhaust, a koso manifold/throttle body, and the included injector for break in. Exhaust wasn't really up to the job, but I wanted to keep the revs low, so it worked as a short term solution.
Now that I've been able to put some high rpm miles on it, there's some changes to the supporting mods I want to sort out before I send it back for it's final porting.

1st problem - oil cooler. Using the kitaco high mount bracket, the biggest cooler you can use is the three row before you start tapping on the head. Temps are currently acceptable (109c max) if on the higher side for Hawaii weather. I'm going to use a takegawa bracket with a morin cooler for more surface area and see if I can get back a few degrees.
2nd problem - maintenance. There's no valve adjustment on this head so I don't know what you're supposed to do when you go out of spec on the flapper/valve (which is detailed). Am I supposed to buy new flappers and valve assembly? Buy a new head? Waiting for a response from kitaco directly for clarification.

So, I'll be spending the next couple weeks tweaking the gearing, changing the oil cooler(s), waiting for my intake/throttle body samples to arrive, monitoring my injector useage to see if it's up to snuff, maybe upgrading to a dry-clutch, a slightly better brake and rotor system, and see what I can do about rims.

Overall, super freaking happy with the kit. If you're willing to spend the time to do the head work, I don't think anyone would be disappointed with the results.
 

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View attachment 90871

I've just finished putting 1k miles on the build so I thought I'd share the experience so far.

First off, it's fast. Makes a surprising amount of torque down low (I changed from a Neo with 30k miles to this) and the delivery is pretty linear till 9k. After that it's starts howling and you get another surge of power that carries it up to 12k rpm on 16/32.

Second, it's loud. The head makes noise. Alot of noise. It's a rythmic, mechanical clicking that turns into an urgent humming the faster you go. Which is nearly a non-issue because;

Thirdly, it's LOUD! At idle the exhaust is like a sledgehammer. On load and under power there might as well be an orchestra of jackhammers following you around. I've tried a combination of different exhausts trying to find something quieter that will still let it breathe and the best you can hope for is an exhaust tone you can live with for stretches at a time.

Initial impressions out of the way, the build was surprisingly smooth.
I had prepared a fresh short block with a kitaco crank and 5 speed well before I ordered the kit.
I know it comes with a crank, but shelving it as a spare wasn't a big deal and the time saved was well worth it.
My first thoughts on inspecting the components was one of appreciation for the craftsmanship. The cam gears were impressively cut and finished, the assembly was pretty well thought out with a complete removal, tear down, and reassembly possible in under 2 hours from start to finish at a leisurely pace.
The instructions (in English) were easy to follow. Would appreciate a color pdf, but the b/w photocopies did the job.
The biggest letdown was the ports. Intake and exhaust were at a choking 28/22(sh) and the throats, seperators, and seats were hella rough cast. I've worked on the 5-axis engines and was pretty shocked at what I was looking at. After a few moments of mouthing 'wtf' over and over again, it kind of hit me that it looks like you're supposed to do your own porting. The intake has multiple clocking points set in the bore so it makes sense to pick, choose, and machine what you want to work with. After talking to some friends from my old car scene, we found a combo that looks like it would work on paper, came up with a porting plan that was safe based around 31/29. I wanted to go bigger in the intake, but saner heads prevailed when they explained I still had to break it in.
I used a kitaco race exhaust, a koso manifold/throttle body, and the included injector for break in. Exhaust wasn't really up to the job, but I wanted to keep the revs low, so it worked as a short term solution.
Now that I've been able to put some high rpm miles on it, there's some changes to the supporting mods I want to sort out before I send it back for it's final porting.

1st problem - oil cooler. Using the kitaco high mount bracket, the biggest cooler you can use is the three row before you start tapping on the head. Temps are currently acceptable (109c max) if on the higher side for Hawaii weather. I'm going to use a takegawa bracket with a morin cooler for more surface area and see if I can get back a few degrees.
2nd problem - maintenance. There's no valve adjustment on this head so I don't know what you're supposed to do when you go out of spec on the flapper/valve (which is detailed). Am I supposed to buy new flappers and valve assembly? Buy a new head? Waiting for a response from kitaco directly for clarification.

So, I'll be spending the next couple weeks tweaking the gearing, changing the oil cooler(s), waiting for my intake/throttle body samples to arrive, monitoring my injector useage to see if it's up to snuff, maybe upgrading to a dry-clutch, a slightly better brake and rotor system, and see what I can do about rims.

Overall, super freaking happy with the kit. If you're willing to spend the time to do the head work, I don't think anyone would be disappointed with the results.
My 5 axis was extremely loud too but a couple straight cut cam gears means even more soundtrack for the Kitaco.

Can you elaborate on valve adjustment? Have the lashes changed yet during break in?

Lastly, what type of speeds are you getting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
2nd problem - maintenance. There's no valve adjustment on this head so I don't know what you're supposed to do when you go out of spec on the flapper/valve (which is detailed). Am I supposed to buy new flappers and valve assembly? Buy a new head? Waiting for a response from kitaco directly for clarification.
.

Thank you very much for posting up for everyone.

We greatly appreciate you taking the time to write all that. ;-)

Here's reply from Kitaco.

90872
 

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View attachment 90871

I've just finished putting 1k miles on the build so I thought I'd share the experience so far.

First off, it's fast. Makes a surprising amount of torque down low (I changed from a Neo with 30k miles to this) and the delivery is pretty linear till 9k. After that it's starts howling and you get another surge of power that carries it up to 12k rpm on 16/32.

Second, it's loud. The head makes noise. Alot of noise. It's a rythmic, mechanical clicking that turns into an urgent humming the faster you go. Which is nearly a non-issue because;

Thirdly, it's LOUD! At idle the exhaust is like a sledgehammer. On load and under power there might as well be an orchestra of jackhammers following you around. I've tried a combination of different exhausts trying to find something quieter that will still let it breathe and the best you can hope for is an exhaust tone you can live with for stretches at a time.

Initial impressions out of the way, the build was surprisingly smooth.
I had prepared a fresh short block with a kitaco crank and 5 speed well before I ordered the kit.
I know it comes with a crank, but shelving it as a spare wasn't a big deal and the time saved was well worth it.
My first thoughts on inspecting the components was one of appreciation for the craftsmanship. The cam gears were impressively cut and finished, the assembly was pretty well thought out with a complete removal, tear down, and reassembly possible in under 2 hours from start to finish at a leisurely pace.
The instructions (in English) were easy to follow. Would appreciate a color pdf, but the b/w photocopies did the job.
The biggest letdown was the ports. Intake and exhaust were at a choking 28/22(sh) and the throats, seperators, and seats were hella rough cast. I've worked on the 5-axis engines and was pretty shocked at what I was looking at. After a few moments of mouthing 'wtf' over and over again, it kind of hit me that it looks like you're supposed to do your own porting. The intake has multiple clocking points set in the bore so it makes sense to pick, choose, and machine what you want to work with. After talking to some friends from my old car scene, we found a combo that looks like it would work on paper, came up with a porting plan that was safe based around 31/29. I wanted to go bigger in the intake, but saner heads prevailed when they explained I still had to break it in.
I used a kitaco race exhaust, a koso manifold/throttle body, and the included injector for break in. Exhaust wasn't really up to the job, but I wanted to keep the revs low, so it worked as a short term solution.
Now that I've been able to put some high rpm miles on it, there's some changes to the supporting mods I want to sort out before I send it back for it's final porting.

1st problem - oil cooler. Using the kitaco high mount bracket, the biggest cooler you can use is the three row before you start tapping on the head. Temps are currently acceptable (109c max) if on the higher side for Hawaii weather. I'm going to use a takegawa bracket with a morin cooler for more surface area and see if I can get back a few degrees.
2nd problem - maintenance. There's no valve adjustment on this head so I don't know what you're supposed to do when you go out of spec on the flapper/valve (which is detailed). Am I supposed to buy new flappers and valve assembly? Buy a new head? Waiting for a response from kitaco directly for clarification.

So, I'll be spending the next couple weeks tweaking the gearing, changing the oil cooler(s), waiting for my intake/throttle body samples to arrive, monitoring my injector useage to see if it's up to snuff, maybe upgrading to a dry-clutch, a slightly better brake and rotor system, and see what I can do about rims.

Overall, super freaking happy with the kit. If you're willing to spend the time to do the head work, I don't think anyone would be disappointed with the results.
Thank you for this! You got me exited! :)
 

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I've just finished putting 1k miles on the build so I thought I'd share the experience so far.

First off, it's fast. Makes a surprising amount of torque down low (I changed from a Neo with 30k miles to this) and the delivery is pretty linear till 9k. After that it's starts howling and you get another surge of power that carries it up to 12k rpm on 16/32.

Second, it's loud. The head makes noise. Alot of noise. It's a rythmic, mechanical clicking that turns into an urgent humming the faster you go. Which is nearly a non-issue because;

Thirdly, it's LOUD! At idle the exhaust is like a sledgehammer. On load and under power there might as well be an orchestra of jackhammers following you around. I've tried a combination of different exhausts trying to find something quieter that will still let it breathe and the best you can hope for is an exhaust tone you can live with for stretches at a time.

Initial impressions out of the way, the build was surprisingly smooth.
I had prepared a fresh short block with a kitaco crank and 5 speed well before I ordered the kit.
I know it comes with a crank, but shelving it as a spare wasn't a big deal and the time saved was well worth it.
My first thoughts on inspecting the components was one of appreciation for the craftsmanship. The cam gears were impressively cut and finished, the assembly was pretty well thought out with a complete removal, tear down, and reassembly possible in under 2 hours from start to finish at a leisurely pace.
The instructions (in English) were easy to follow. Would appreciate a color pdf, but the b/w photocopies did the job.
The biggest letdown was the ports. Intake and exhaust were at a choking 28/22(sh) and the throats, seperators, and seats were hella rough cast. I've worked on the 5-axis engines and was pretty shocked at what I was looking at. After a few moments of mouthing 'wtf' over and over again, it kind of hit me that it looks like you're supposed to do your own porting. The intake has multiple clocking points set in the bore so it makes sense to pick, choose, and machine what you want to work with. After talking to some friends from my old car scene, we found a combo that looks like it would work on paper, came up with a porting plan that was safe based around 31/29. I wanted to go bigger in the intake, but saner heads prevailed when they explained I still had to break it in.
I used a kitaco race exhaust, a koso manifold/throttle body, and the included injector for break in. Exhaust wasn't really up to the job, but I wanted to keep the revs low, so it worked as a short term solution.
Now that I've been able to put some high rpm miles on it, there's some changes to the supporting mods I want to sort out before I send it back for it's final porting.

1st problem - oil cooler. Using the kitaco high mount bracket, the biggest cooler you can use is the three row before you start tapping on the head. Temps are currently acceptable (109c max) if on the higher side for Hawaii weather. I'm going to use a takegawa bracket with a morin cooler for more surface area and see if I can get back a few degrees.
2nd problem - maintenance. There's no valve adjustment on this head so I don't know what you're supposed to do when you go out of spec on the flapper/valve (which is detailed). Am I supposed to buy new flappers and valve assembly? Buy a new head? Waiting for a response from kitaco directly for clarification.

So, I'll be spending the next couple weeks tweaking the gearing, changing the oil cooler(s), waiting for my intake/throttle body samples to arrive, monitoring my injector useage to see if it's up to snuff, maybe upgrading to a dry-clutch, a slightly better brake and rotor system, and see what I can do about rims.

Overall, super freaking happy with the kit. If you're willing to spend the time to do the head work, I don't think anyone would be disappointed with the results.
Outstanding! Thank you!
 

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A few things would be helpful to know.

1. What does Kitaco recommend for porting the head? Use as is or is additional porting required as per the review above.

2. Oil cooler mounting. Will specific mounting solutions for this motor be offered plug and play, or will each builder need to fabricate their own solution?

3. How to videos on shim valve adjustments will be great.
 

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A few things would be helpful to know.

1. What does Kitaco recommend for porting the head? Use as is or is additional porting required as per the review above.

2. Oil cooler mounting. Will specific mounting solutions for this motor be offered plug and play, or will each builder need to fabricate their own solution?

3. How to videos on shim valve adjustments will be great.
There's no recommended port for this. Would probably work fine with what it came with out of the box. But when you compare it to other 4v's, or just stare at the ports, it's pretty obvious that they're hella conservative.

For oil cooler brackets, you'll probably need to mod the kitaco bracket to fit a 5 row. There's plenty of space on it to make some offset mounting points. Anything else is probably a fab job.

It looks like there's some shimming involved with the valve adjustment. Everything was in spec when I assembled, so I'll inspect every oil change to get an idea when they're getting close to needing adjustment. I, too, would love a video or at least REALLY detailed instructions.

Hopefully someone does it before I have to fumble around myself.
 

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@unhygenic Did you had to gap the piston rings, or were they pre gapped? The porting job is a bit tricky for me, I did my own stock head but this is next level.
 

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unhygenic, I am glad you ported it and are happy with it.

It is unfortunate that the kitaco supplied numbers are so conservative. I imagine with the restrictive unmodified head this would feel very much like a NEO, as you already made the comparison to about 9K. Where the port work helps it rip to 12K, the small stock ports would taper power much like the 2V NEO.

I think this package has potential for higher numbers, but bolt on, it lightens your wallet and adds the weight elsewhere. I'd take 2 NEOs for the price.
 

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unhygenic, I am glad you ported it and are happy with it.

It is unfortunate that the kitaco supplied numbers are so conservative. I imagine with the restrictive unmodified head this would feel very much like a NEO, as you already made the comparison to about 9K. Where the port work helps it rip to 12K, the small stock ports would taper power much like the 2V NEO.

I think this package has potential for higher numbers, but bolt on, it lightens your wallet and adds the weight elsewhere. I'd take 2 NEOs for the price.
You're not wrong. This really isn't for everyone. I still have my neo, freshly transplanted on another bike, and is still my daily ride.
 

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@unhygenic Did you had to gap the piston rings, or were they pre gapped? The porting job is a bit tricky for me, I did my own stock head but this is next level.
I always check the ring gaps. They were pretty much spot on, didn't break out the grinder for anything. Porting I leave to professionals, easier to make it someone else's problem. For the most part, any performance head shop will have an idea of what you're trying to do. Talk with them and feel them out to see if you're comfortable handing the job over to them. I've been working with a local shop for (jeesh, i'm getting old) for about 25 years and they've done my cars and big bikes through the years.
 

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My 5 axis was extremely loud too but a couple straight cut cam gears means even more soundtrack for the Kitaco.

Can you elaborate on valve adjustment? Have the lashes changed yet during break in?

Lastly, what type of speeds are you getting?
its shim-under-bucket, so its probably going to go a couple thousand miles before they start going out of spec. happy and sad about that, i like longer service intervals, normally hate doing shim adjustments, but the whole assembly is in your face and easy to get to, so maybe a couple hour job to get it done.
 
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