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Pretty, hope it last......
 

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Not exactly square welding. One side came out OK!
My Kepspeed is the same way. I don’t think that is necessarily a flaw/accident. What I determined is Kepspeed simply uses the same triangle shaped reinforcement piece to keep things simple. The left and right arms are at a different angle, so it leaves more of a gap on one side. They fill that gap with more weld. I’m not saying it is the best way to construct the reinforcement area, but I think they are all that way. They should use a unique reinforcement triangle for each side to compensate for how the arms are bent at different angles.

You can see CDN Grom’s Kepspeed is made the same way. The right reinforcing triangle is pulled away from the cross member and filled with more weld.
Received the new swingarm from kepspeed!

Beautiful unit.

The pivot is still half bearing half bushing, but the inner bushing is a tighter fit so that the load is shared between bearing and bushing, however, the medial part without the bearing is a roughish gold anodized surface which is a terrible solution when the goal is reducing resistance! No idea why they cant just either run a full length bearing or just two per side. Or forget the bearings and have a better bushing solution.
Does your old Kepspeed swingarm show signs of the axle spacer (the one that makes the axle larger diameter and actual rolls on the needle bearings) dragging on the internal bushing beside the needle bearings? I always assumed it didn’t make contact, because what would be the point of having needle bearings if half the pivot was rubbing on bushings.

I ask, because I saw a photo of a G-Craft swingarm, not for the Grom, where the needle bearings were only on the ends. That swingarm was a type where the pivot was one single pipe, that went all the way across, not a left and right separate pivot sections. If that makes sense.

It was strange how your needle bearings were digging into the axle spacer piece. It’s almost like that axle spacer is not made of sufficiently hard material. If it was harder, I wonder if the needle bearings would not have worn into it?

I love the chain adjusters on your new Kepspeed. Those seem like they would be the most precise and easy to use. You just turn an Allen wrench to adjust.

I like how G-Craft’s Grom swingarm has a cartridge bearing solution. I’ve got one on the way from Japan, so I will be able to compare it side by side to my Kepspeed. I’m going to sell the Kepspeed.
 
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Discussion Starter #63
...

Does your old Kepspeed swingarm show signs of the axle spacer (the one that makes the axle larger diameter and actual rolls on the needle bearings) dragging on the internal bushing beside the needle bearings? I always assumed it didn’t make contact, because what would be the point of having needle bearings if half the pivot was rubbing on bushings.

...

I like how G-Craft’s Grom swingarm has a cartridge bearing solution. I’ve got one on the way from Japan, so I will be able to compare it side by side to my Kepspeed. I’m going to sell the Kepspeed.
Yes, the bushing/axle spacer was wearing as well, as it does share the load with the bearings. Imagine the swingarm pivot bolt pinching the entire assembly together against the frame. As the wheel bends the swingarm with lateral rotational forces, the bearings and the bushings/spacers are taking up that twisting force.

Look at the pictures I posted above of that spacer, it does not show it very clearly, but the black marring is wear not grease. The gouging was from the bearings. It was being worn on both the bearing and bushing sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Pics to follow.

Installed the kepspeed extended swingarm today.

So much lighter than the stock with all the heavy additions such as the bushings and chain adjusters I put on the stocker.

The suspension is now completely out of tune due to the longer lever arm, so I will need to get that sorted out.

Do people bother with the plastic wheel hugger when they extend the arm? It does not cover the wheel anymore, so kind of pointless and it looks ridiculous.
 

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Lol, I bought some of your maxima chain wax and removed mine from the stock swingarm..... leave it off, you know you want to!
 
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Pics to follow.

Installed the kepspeed extended swingarm today.

So much lighter than the stock with all the heavy additions such as the bushings and chain adjusters I put on the stocker.

The suspension is now completely out of tune due to the longer lever arm, so I will need to get that sorted out.

Do people bother with the plastic wheel hugger when they extend the arm? It does not cover the wheel anymore, so kind of pointless and it looks ridiculous.
I hope this swing arm works out for you. Definitely tell us how this one rides and feels.

The Kepspeed I have is pretty nice, especially considering what it cost. They could be nearly perfect with just a few small changes.

DY101’s G-Craft weighed over 5 pounds less than the stock swing arm! That is substantial.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Rear Brake line needed to be rotated at the banjo counterclockwise a bit to run the extended distance .

87825




The chain rubs against the chain guard excessively. I dont expect the chain guard to last too long at all and the wear on the chain will not be welcome. That need to be monitored closely.


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I am running 121 links in this chain but 123 would be better. Chain adjusters are full forward and the tension is a bit tight. Will put in a longer chain. This is a chepo 10$ chain that I used first just in case I mismeasured, which I did.

87827
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
Added 3/4 of as turn preload to tighten up the spring and make the seat bounce test feel about what it did with the stock length swingarm.


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Chain adjusters are fully forward now. Need a longer chain 124-125 links to be about right. Using a good quality non o ring RK chain next.
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The rear axle is not long enough for axle sliders and stock washers under the heads of the bolt.

I will put the axle sliders back on in place of the washers on each side when I remove the wheel next time. This one is a thicker swingarm at the axle compared to stock and the previous kepspeed. It will not accommodate washers in the sliders. Either/or in order to have sufficient thread for the bolt.

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87833
 

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Looks kind of cool having some color to it.

Are you running a braided stainless brake line up to your fluid reservoir? I don’t guess I’ve ever seen that before.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
That other brake line coming out of the reservoir fitting runs to the left handlebar grip where I am running a left hand rear brake.

Clutch lever bolts to the cap of the brembo reservoir which feeds the whole system.

Looks kind of cool having some color to it.

Are you running a braided stainless brake line up to your fluid reservoir? I don’t guess I’ve ever seen that before.
87841
 

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Discussion Starter #71
 

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Do you run that setup for stunting or you just like having easy access to the rear brake when riding fast?

I drag the rear brake lightly in some turns. It usually bleeds off the perfect amount of speed if I’m too hot and it doesn’t disrupt the bike like the front brake will. You just have to be careful and not lock the rear wheel, which ain’t hard with the stock Grom rear brake...lol.

Do you like those Domino grips? I was going to get a set of those in red/black. Do you have to file something down to get aftermarket grips to fit properly on the Grom? I don’t remember doing anything like that when installing dirt bike grips.

I’ve never seen mirrors like those either. You’ve got some nice bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Do you run that setup for stunting or you just like having easy access to the rear brake when riding fast?

I drag the rear brake lightly in some turns. It usually bleeds off the perfect amount of speed if I’m too hot and it doesn’t disrupt the bike like the front brake will. You just have to be careful and not lock the rear wheel, which ain’t hard with the stock Grom rear brake...lol.

Do you like those Domino grips? I was going to get a set of those in red/black. Do you have to file something down to get aftermarket grips to fit properly on the Grom? I don’t remember doing anything like that when installing dirt bike grips.

I’ve never seen mirrors like those either. You’ve got some nice bikes.
I use rear brake and the front brake together all the time, just like when riding a bicycle.

I use it on the track with bigger bikes to trail brake along with the front brake, often holding it a bit longer to tighten the radius when the lean angle is at extremes.

The only reason rear brake control is by the foot is because initially that is where designers put it because it was easier to do way back when. It makes no sense at all to have it controlled by the foot, which is why more and more pro riders are fitting thumb or left hand brakes for the rear. When moving around the bike to compensate for lean angle requirements, who can modulate the rear brake with the foot well? Not I.

Domino grips are nice. The throttle grip is a PITA to change due to sharp plastic barbs holding the grip on the throttle tube

I will post a link to those mirrors in the future. Originally ran them on my Hypermotard.
 

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I use rear brake and the front brake together all the time, just like when riding a bicycle.

I use it on the track with bigger bikes to trail brake along with the front brake, often holding it a bit longer to tighten the radius when the lean angle is at extremes.

The only reason rear brake control is by the foot is because initially that is where designers put it because it was easier to do way back when. It makes no sense at all to have it controlled by the foot, which is why more and more pro riders are fitting thumb or left hand brakes for the rear. When moving around the bike to compensate for lean angle requirements, who can modulate the rear brake with the foot well? Not I.

Domino grips are nice. The throttle grip is a PITA to change due to sharp plastic barbs holding the grip on the throttle tube

I will post a link to those mirrors in the future. Originally ran them on my Hypermotard.
I’ve always ridden bicycles with a lot of rear brake. That comes from my days on BMX bikes, when the only brake we had was a rear brake. I use it to control the bike. Front brake is for when I really need to scrub some speed off, but they are used together as needed, of course.

Using the rear brake on a motorcycle has always been awkward. Years ago I rarely used the rear brake on a motorcycle and I would grab too much front brake regularly, thinking it was the rear brake on a bicycle.

I’ve gotten a lot more comfortable with the rear brake lately and I use it exactly as you describe. I love how it tightens up turns when you are leaned way over. I’m wondering how the rear brake is going to feel when I get my Brembo calipers installed. It is very vague currently.

I kind of reposition my feet on the pegs when riding fast, so that I’m more on my toes. That way I don’t drag a toe. Unfortunately, the rear brake pedal is not in an optimal position.

It is amazing how much faster you can corner by sliding your butt off the seat and getting your body down low. It seems like your lean angle doesn’t have to be as extreme in many cases, reducing the risk of dragging a part of the motorcycle.

It sounds like you know all about this. I’m trying to get more fluid at it. Obviously, that is not a technic I use on a bicycle.

I’ve seen the hand brake on the stunt bikes, but was unaware that people were installing them on race bikes. I can totally see how it would be beneficial. I’ll have to look into that more.

Were you able to leave the barbs on the throttle tube or do they have to be filed off? Did you just cut the stock grips off? On bicycle grips I use compressed air to remove the grips, especially if they are closed on the end. I stick the tip of an air nozzle up under the grip and float the grip off like a hovercraft.
 

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I replaced my grips and had to sand down the throttle tube to get it to look right, it wasn't the nubs but the flares on each side that caused the problem. Go ahead and purchase the quick throttle tube for 10 bucks, way easier than modifying the stock one. I think it is Kitaco brand? Also gives shorter rotation, and you know the throttle is always pinned anyway!
 

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I replaced my grips and had to sand down the throttle tube to get it to look right, it wasn't the nubs but the flares on each side that caused the problem. Go ahead and purchase the quick throttle tube for 10 bucks, way easier than modifying the stock one. I think it is Kitaco brand? Also gives shorter rotation, and you know the throttle is always pinned anyway!
After I asked that, I thought to my self, “I wonder if it would just be easier to replace the throttle tube altogether?”.

I’ll have to figure out which tube to get. Thanks!
 

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Probably cheaper somewhere else, but I think you are waiting on enough parts already.....
That looks like what I need, but a few people mentioned that it was a little short in length. I went to Kitaco’s website and it says: “Applicable grip length 105mm - 110mm”.

They say it works for the Grom, but it looks like the Grom grips are longer than that. When I looked at Domino’s website, they say the Moto GP grips are 126mm. Do you know of anything else that is good quality, but a little longer?

That Kitaco tube gets good reviews. Too bad it isn’t a little longer. It will work, but it would be better if it was a tad longer, I believe.

MNNTHBX sells that metal tube, but it is expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Great video on use of rear brake for spirited riding:



 

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Good stuff! Thanks for posting it Pard.

I remember watching a video about “backing it in”. The guy said, “Don’t go out and try to do this. As you ride faster and faster it will start to happen on its own“. I agree. Sometimes it all comes together. That slip is fun to modulate with clutch and brake pressure.

I think this is especially true when you get to ride on a track regularly. You can hit the same corners over and over and over. Going faster and faster as you build confidence and skills. It’s more repeatable.

I’m doing basically everything in the first video. I just need to work on the timing of it all. It needs to become more fluid and second nature, if I want my corner speeds to really come up. Practice, practice, practice.

Ripping through tight, technical singletrack on a mountain bike, I literally don’t think about any of the skills involved. It all just happens. I’ve been doing it for most of my life. Dirt bikes feel more like mountain biking to me, but even with that, I carried over some habits of cherry picking lines. It’s beneficial to pick the perfect line, especially going uphill on a mountain bike. The capabilities of a dirt bike going uphill are vastly different, therefore I’ve had to reprogram my brain over the years. I had to quit worrying about the smoothest line and just let the bike work.

While I get around fine on the motorcycle, it’s just not the same at high speed on the road. It still feels a bit too robotic. It’s improving, but I’ve got a ways to go. Of course I have no delusions that I’ll be riding on the level of MotoGP guys, but having good skills makes riding more fun. That feeling of maintaining smooth, consistent flow through the twisties is addicting.

Loving the idea of a thumb activated rear brake. Could that be implemented on a Grom fairly easily?
 
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