No! not worth the $50 plus shipping for a oily gauze air filter that is still suffocated by the stock box design, Imo... but this is coming from a guy who would rather make his own intakes.
No! not worth the $50 plus shipping for a oily gauze air filter that is still suffocated by the stock box design, Imo... but this is coming from a guy who would rather make his own intakes.As a mild power hop-up I'm considering swapping out the OE air filter for the K&N so-called "high flow" filter that sits in the standard airbox. Is it worth doing? Obvs would need to consider fuelling but I already have a PC5 so if necessary I can adjust.
I have seen no convincing evidence that "opening up" the stock air-box or stock air-filter results in any significant increase in power or top speed, assuming a ~stock engine. Yes, I have seen many of the YouTube videos advocating air-box mods for "more power," but increased noise seems to be the only result I can observe.As a mild power hop-up I'm considering swapping out the OE air filter for (a) so-called "high flow" filter.....
If I'm reading this correctly it looks like a slight difference with the lid off correct? It's hard for me to zoom into the colors. Thanks for the research and data BTWFrom my dyno data, ALL panel filters (BMC, K&N, KOSO, etc) perform the same as a stock filter with the mesh screen on the back removed. The only ones with a real benefit is the ones that are cleanable as the stock is not.
Stock grom with yoshimura rs2 exhaust. The blue and green are with the airbox lid off (koso vs stock), the red and purple are with the lid on. This is comparing the koso (thin foam) filter vs stock filter with mesh removed with and without the airbox lid.
View attachment 76926
Bone stock grom (over 1k miles, broken in)
Blue stock airbox lid on (no intake mod)
Red is still a stock airbox with the airbox lid removed (no intake mod)
Green is without the airbox lid with the intake mod (removed mesh behind filter, remove small tube at the back of the airbox)
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