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Intentionally over fill the forks and then use a syringe with some tubing on to set the 75mm height. Just make sure the forks are level then dip the tubing in 75mm and suck out with the syringe, perfect level every time.
 

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Again, you're CERTAIN you used 225-230ml of fluid in that fork? It would be pretty easy to get a 75mm reading of fluid in a fork with like 100ml of fluid if you didn't articulate the fork while filling.
Yes, I am certain. When I did the oil I removed the forks and cycled the forks through their stroke both when removing and filling new fluid. Also I have been runing them for 2 yrs at this level so I doubt the level would read anything other than the actual level if I had under filled. Like I said in my first post I am not new to suspension work, I've been racing pitbikes/mx bikes for over 15 yrs and have always done my own work, including revalving and rebuilds, not that I havent made mistakes though so if I am wrong I will admit it. I will admit the grom forks are very different than any other style on the market(conventional or inverted, both open and closed chamber) so its possible i messed up but its hard to believe bc it is very simple

I will hopefully sort this out this afternoon.
 

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Boy someone should really figure out how to modify the 2nd gen forks. I just picked up a 2018, would changing out the fork oil alone make a big difference?


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Discussion Starter #326
Boy someone should really figure out how to modify the 2nd gen forks. I just picked up a 2018, would changing out the fork oil alone make a big difference?


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I think you can get 3/8ths - 1/2 in of more travel on the SF grom forks by not running the damper rod fully into the cap. Fork oil will definitely help too!
 

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Sorry it took so long to respond but with my grom being my daily I had to make sure I had time to work get it together and check things.

I managed to remove about 8cc per side and that has me at 90mm of oil height. I took it for a spin and it is still bottoming at the exact same spot.

The spot it bottoms at is about 1/2 from the stock spot so it does gain a small amount of travel but i think what everyone feels as an improvement is that it does ride higher and that extra half inch does help some but the bottoming resistance just isnt there. I really wanted this to work but Ive take it apart and checked/tweeked things 6 time and nothing changed the point it bottoms. I prefer the way it handles and bottoms stock but I do notice the difference and maybe that works for some.

I saw someone said that they checked with the ziptie method but could someone please get evidence of this actually bottoming with the mod bc I dont think you are bottoming at the stock point?

Only thing I can think of is if it is bottoming out on the little m8 washer so the fork lower is not coming in contact with the rubber damper
 

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Sorry it took so long to respond but with my grom being my daily I had to make sure I had time to work get it together and check things.

I managed to remove about 8cc per side and that has me at 90mm of oil height. I took it for a spin and it is still bottoming at the exact same spot.

The spot it bottoms at is about 1/2 from the stock spot so it does gain a small amount of travel but i think what everyone feels as an improvement is that it does ride higher and that extra half inch does help some but the bottoming resistance just isnt there. I really wanted this to work but Ive take it apart and checked/tweeked things 6 time and nothing changed the point it bottoms. I prefer the way it handles and bottoms stock but I do notice the difference and maybe that works for some.

I saw someone said that they checked with the ziptie method but could someone please get evidence of this actually bottoming with the mod bc I dont think you are bottoming at the stock point?

Only thing I can think of is if it is bottoming out on the little m8 washer so the fork lower is not coming in contact with the rubber damper
I can absolutely attest that my forks bottom out where stock was. Are you sure you got the correct sized spacers ID/OD? If not, the spacer cant travel through the large washer and use the bump stops as intended.
 

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I can absolutely attest that my forks bottom out where stock was. Are you sure you got the correct sized spacers ID/OD? If not, the spacer cant travel through the large washer and use the bump stops as intended.
I checked and the larger washer slides easily on the new spacers so there should be no issue there(I ordered the spacers online based on the part # in the thread bc local hardware didnt have them). I have a hard time believing I am the only one who has encountered this issue but it really does feel like a metal on metal bottom(you can hear the metal clank where if it was oil it would be more of a pounding through fork into the frame and bars if that makes sense)

I may just give up as I have only had one time the stock forks bottomed out bad enough for me to be concerned(square edge bump offroad at the top of 2nd i didnt see lol). I have almost 15k miles and they have been ok so far, just wanted to get a little better suspension out of it. Maybe if I meet someone who has this done to theirs I will be able to try theirs
 

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Discussion Starter #330
I checked and the larger washer slides easily on the new spacers so there should be no issue there(I ordered the spacers online based on the part # in the thread bc local hardware didnt have them). I have a hard time believing I am the only one who has encountered this issue but it really does feel like a metal on metal bottom(you can hear the metal clank where if it was oil it would be more of a pounding through fork into the frame and bars if that makes sense)

I may just give up as I have only had one time the stock forks bottomed out bad enough for me to be concerned(square edge bump offroad at the top of 2nd i didnt see lol). I have almost 15k miles and they have been ok so far, just wanted to get a little better suspension out of it. Maybe if I meet someone who has this done to theirs I will be able to try theirs
Do you have different fork internals than stock? (IE racetech?) Reason i ask is different fork internals like racetech stuff is already longer (20mm to be exact). Adding another 25.4 mm on top of that would likely cause coil bind. But in the multiple years i have had this in my grom since i have made it up, zero metal on metal clank / bind.
 

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Do you have different fork internals than stock? (IE racetech?) Reason i ask is different fork internals like racetech stuff is already longer (20mm to be exact). Adding another 25.4 mm on top of that would likely cause coil bind. But in the multiple years i have had this in my grom since i have made it up, zero metal on metal clank / bind.
Nope, completely stock other than 20wt oil and I ve had the bike since new.

Did you not have a metal clank when you bottomed on the stock forks? mine does so that is why I think its a physical limitation of the suspension somewhere I cant seem to find
 

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Nope, completely stock other than 20wt oil and I ve had the bike since new.

Did you not have a metal clank when you bottomed on the stock forks? mine does so that is why I think its a physical limitation of the suspension somewhere I cant seem to find
Are you the original owner to the bike?
 

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how thick is it if you add the 2 rubber washers together in mm. Neoprene washer (7/16ID - 1in OD). I live in a shitti country where such rubber rings are impossible to find. i do find others so maybe I use 1 rubber o ring that has the same thickness of these 2 neoprene washers. olso the thickness of the long spacer, is that 11.912mm or just 12mm? i inderstand that the big steel ring has to travel over the long steel spacer en that the long spacer has to enter the thing cap, yes. so i guess 11.9mm eh.
 

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Okay, I've read through this thread, and tried doing searches. I see this mod works with the Ohlins kits. Does anyone know if it works with the Racing Bros kits? Just curious, as I don't know how those kits interface to be able to offer the adjustability. Figured it was worth asking first.

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #336
Okay, I've read through this thread, and tried doing searches. I see this mod works with the Ohlins kits. Does anyone know if it works with the Racing Bros kits? Just curious, as I don't know how those kits interface to be able to offer the adjustability. Figured it was worth asking first.

Thank you!

Im not sure. I know there was one kit out there (racetech i think) that already had extended damper rods and was the reason why I set out to do this mod.

Still rocking the original install of my mod from when i started this thread (2yrs ago?) with zero issues.
 

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Well, perhaps I'll be the guinea pig. Not going to be buying the kit for a little while though. Building a miniGP bike from scratch. Need to buy a tig welder and make the frame first. Have the materials for making the triple trees and steering stem though. When I eventually get the kit and see if it works with your mod, I'll come back here and update.
 

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I have not yet taken apart my stock forks, so I'm not certain if something needs to be able to slide along the full length of the dampening rod that's close to the same diameter. That said, the racing bros fork kits have their own dampening rod, with external threads, that thread directly into the fork cap with no bolt, leaving room in the center for the adjusters to make the compression/rebound adjustable from the outside. So, until I can pull apart the forks, I'm going to say this mod is not possible with the racing bros fork kits. Even if it is, it would be custom parts, rather than easily bought cheap stuff from a hardware store.
 

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I have not yet taken apart my stock forks, so I'm not certain if something needs to be able to slide along the full length of the dampening rod that's close to the same diameter. That said, the racing bros fork kits have their own dampening rod, with external threads, that thread directly into the fork cap with no bolt, leaving room in the center for the adjusters to make the compression/rebound adjustable from the outside. So, until I can pull apart the forks, I'm going to say this mod is not possible with the racing bros fork kits. Even if it is, it would be custom parts, rather than easily bought cheap stuff from a hardware store.
Correct..not possible without a lot of ingenuity. This is a big reason I'm sticking with my Ohlins.
 
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