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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I made the title generic, curious to hear what your planned break in process will be.. Keep it civil and remember there are more ways than one and for different reasons :p

I will be fallowing this again, I used it to break in the last car engine I built.. It ran terrific and made really good power on the dyno with only a couple hundred miles and the pistons stayed clean the way it describes
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
 

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BALLS OUT from day one.... thats what ive always done
 
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For all my bikes... I don't bounce off the rev limiter but I work em pretty well running up through all the gears as to seat everything well. I avoid sitting at a set rpm for a long period of time on the highway, and try to stick to back roads/city (which I do anyway in my everyday riding). I change the oil at 300 miles then 600, then I just follow the regular service schedule. Once the bike gets up to 5-8k or so miles I sometimes consider synthetic oil... not one problem with my motors in 34 years of riding. I think these modern machines are sweet, follow regular maintenance and they will reward you will years of good service.
 

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sticking under 40 mph for first 100 miles, then occasionally over that next 100 miles, after 200 I will allow full speed for shortblasts then after 300 miles I consider it fine to go faster longer, 500 miles I will consider fast roads for long periods, all the time trying not to sit at same revs for long periods!
 

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All out off the showroom floor, oil change at around 600 miles and then more abuse.

On car engines that I've built for racing we usually close them up and as soon they are on the car we take them to the dyno tune them all out, change the oil and then off to the track for some testing.
 

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These engines are more delicate, 1 piston running higher rpm,s, I just couldn't do that, might be great I dunno but for lasting a long time it cant be good for the engine!
 

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ive read a few things that say 1-2 warm fully up, cool down... then you are ready for dyno time. every new car ive gotten ive treated it like i do every other car... auto x it, rev limit, no issues. same with minibike engines
 

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I have friends who swear by Euro's method. Run it like you would ride it normally, which for most, is WFO. I'm somewhere in between. Rev the thing, but just don't hold it there long, for the first little while.
 

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run um hard, not keeping at a one rpm for to long. so going through the whole rpm range with all the gears just not at full throttle. also using engine brake through all the gears to help break in the back sides. change oil after couple hundred and repeat. then change oil at about 1000 and then 3k and every 3k after for normal oil changes.
 

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I do all my oil changes (& Inspect oil) like this.

50 miles (Inspect, Measure, Dino Oil) = 50 Total Miles • I WOT for 8 sec let off.
150 miles (Inspect, Measure, Dino Oil) = 200 Total Miles • I WOT for 8 sec let off.
300 miles (Inspect, Measure, Dino Oil) = 500 Total Miles • Ride it like a MoFo
500 miles (Inspect, Measure, Dino Oil) = 1,000 Total Miles, I go Full synthetic after 1k & Ride it like a MoFo

I ride a lot so I can easily do this within a month!

-Honest™
 

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I'll be running mine fairly hard in the hills by my house the day I get it. Lots of roll on throttle and compression braking. Much like the article suggested. This has always worked well for me.
 

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Nicely said man! I'm the exact same way...had 5 new sport bikes and never had any problems...now if it was a Harley(not bashing) it would be a different story
I ran my new Sportster balls out from day one. But lots of guys wouldn't call that a "real" Harley... lol

As long as you seat the piston rings (under moderate-high engine load) without glazing the cylinder walls (high RPM + low load), it should break in just fine. That means avoiding high-speed crusing for a little while.
 

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Guys, these are Hondas, every bike will have been test run on the dyno at the factory. If they dont make power within the spec they get fixed They are ready to roll from the time you first put your leg over it. The most important thing you do for a new engine is no long term steady throttle or WTFO for extended periods. On a little air cooled bike like this I would change the oil at 300 miles and at 600 miles. After that it's WOT all day every day. The ridiculous break in procedures are purely to insure that you get out of warranty period without killing the bike.
 
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