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Help on buying a torque wrench

8243 Views 12 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  poolsgold
What would be the best option for a torque wrench for the grom/ dirt bikes? I'm not looking to spend a fortune but I also don't want to cheap out. I see some torque wrench ranges from 10-100ft lbs, 20-150 ft lbs, 30-200ft lbs. I see some torque specs for bolts on our grom are less than 10 lbs. just want to know what I can buy that will last me forever and work for everything, if that's possible. Thanks


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I would go with the the below. Under $20 and "they" say the beam style are accurate for longer. Your right - clickable are hard to find sub 10 ft/lbs, as I believe that is a whole different wrench that measures in inch/lbs.

I've heard that finger tight + 1/8 a turn gets you approx. 7 ft/lbs.


Craftsman 3/8-in. Dr. Beam Style Torque Wrench, 0-75 ft. lbs.
Item# 00932999000P

Or

Craftsman Micro-Clicker Torque Wrench 3/8" Drive
Item# 00931424000P

PS the clickable is on sale for like $36 which is more than half off. I would get that one with 3/8 drive and 10-75 lbs. I have one and If I remember correctly you can set it slightly lower than 10 ft/lbs. I will check when I get home.
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If you're not spending top dollar on a snap on or equivalent that will require re-calibrating etc, I'd just go with a harbor freight one. I've used a harbor freight one over the last few years for wheel lugs and other random stuff. Compared to the snap on, it's pretty much on point. The snap on only comes out for engine rebuilds.
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I've been told to zero out any torque wrench before putting it up to prolong the calibration on it.
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Yes that is correct you should zero them out after use they will stay calibrated longer. I use a 3/8th drive tq wrench for smaller bolts and a 1/2in drive for the bigger stuff both of mine are craftsman
While they do have torque specs for many bolts, there are really only a few that are critical. I only use my cheap Harbor Freight torque wrench ($9 if you use the ubiquitous 25% off coupons) when I do the axle nut. Short of leaning on the drain plug and stripping the threads, almost anything will be fine. When you loosen bolts for the first time from the factory or the dealer, you see that even they do not follow their own specs. I have had drain plugs I had to loosen with a lot of force (common) and others that loosened with very little effort, for example. If I were into torqueing I would buy a second one for torques below 25 ft. lbs and I would buy a beam style which are more expensive. I go for cheap and guess work myself. It's worked so far. Never stripped a thread by over-tightening and never lost a bolt except for a license plate bracket bolt on the Grom, but that got fixed with Loctite.
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It will mostly be for just the grom wheels and other critical parts. I want to swap my tires but I want a torque wrench just to make sure they are put back on perfectly. I would hate to have an axle slide out due to prolonged vibration.


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A cheap Pittsburgh Harbor Freight torque wrench works fine for axle bolts. It does torques from 20 to 150 ft. lbs. The rear Grom axle nut takes 44 ft. lbs. of torque and the front axle nut takes 40 ft. lbs.
I got mine from Home Depot for like $80.00 or something. Figured I might as well use it on the Ruckus and the wifes Met too.
I have harbor freight ones in each size: 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" drive. I don't think I paid over $10 for any one of them.
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I live pretty close to an Auto Zone parts store and they have loaner tools that you can get from them and use for free. There is a deposit payed when you get it from them then deposit is returned when tool is returned. Going to get an inch pound reading torque wrench from them today for the clutch spring replacement on my 2001 Suzuki Marauder vz 800. They charge $50.00 to get the tool and they have 4 of them for loaners. I went to harbor freight to get one and they were sold out of the inch pound torque wrench.
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