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Has anyone made a hand brake kit for cheap? I've been looking at junction valve kits but I don't want to pay $200-300. I'm looking for something under $100 and I'd like to keep both the foot brake and hand brake. If you have one for a good price let me know as well.
 

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you hardly keep both levers function for same brake.... or not ? :/
stunting. 2 levers up front, one for front, one for rear, plus you still retain the foot brake. Same set up I had back in the day on my CRF50 stunt bike.
 

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Interesting. It makes sense now that I think about it: say -- for example -- that a stunt rider is popping a wheelie while standing on the seat......might be a pretty good thing to still have the ability to add a little rear brake.

I just learned something new.
 

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Dual setup, everyone I know with the junction valve has ended up upgrading to dual setups. Yea it can and will get you by but in the end you'll probably upgrade. If your like me junction may suffice but if you plan on going full stunt go ahead and buy dual. Cheapest I found was through dark night street on Facebook.
 

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Any updates on this modification?

As mentioned above, this looks like the least expensive option:

 

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Any updates on this modification?

As mentioned above, this looks like the least expensive option:

Ordered the kit from tacticalmindz. The dominator cap/lever is out of production. They are offering a substitute lever and cap for the brembo master from Impaktech USA

I will take pictures and report on the installation and performance.
 

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I had one on a pit bike but it leaked. I tried putting a hose clamp on it. Then encasing it in epoxy putty. I thought about trying to get it tig welded but I didn't want to chip all the epoxy putty off. I ended up replacing the rear master and making a dual caliper bracket.
 

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There should be an O ring in the reservoir port under the brake line tap that seals any discharge. It worked well enough for me on an R6 I have running a tap. The only difference there is that the R6 fitting has a circlip holding the tap in place rather than the single screw as is the case with the Grom.

The best solution without having to go with a separate caliper on the rear is a specific designed master with two ports. I have one setup that way on a Hypermotard.

 

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The other option if the tap does not work is to bypass the rear master altogether, run a line from the hand brake directly to the caliper. Eliminate the foot brake.
 

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Cheapest way is to bypass the footbrake. Almost all your Grom stunts are going to be off the subcage pegs/seat/12 bar, not sitting down where you can reach the foot brake. And even if you are doing a wheelie where you can reach the footbrake, you could still use the hand brake instead.

I would wait and save money for at least a junction valve set up with the Magura 13mm master cylinder. Do it right the first time.
 

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Cheapest way is to bypass the footbrake. Almost all your Grom stunts are going to be off the subcage pegs/seat/12 bar, not sitting down where you can reach the foot brake. And even if you are doing a wheelie where you can reach the footbrake, you could still use the hand brake instead.

I would wait and save money for at least a junction valve set up with the Magura 13mm master cylinder. Do it right the first time.
I use the magura on both my R6 and Hypermotard. Junction to the master on the R6 and a qnium specialty master on the Hyper. They work really well.

I will try the brembo and the clutch cap to a junction, first, on the Grom. If that does not work to my liking, I will bypass the foot/rear master and run a line directly from hand master to rear caliper. That should be fine.

Bar space is limited on the grom, so trying the space saving measures first. Stock bars for now.

86099

InkedIMG_1979_LI.jpg
 

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