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Discussion Starter #1
I took my Grom on a 75 mile ride after installing some modifications and she rode great. There were no problems at all. An hour later, I went on a 7 mile ride with a passenger. Again, there were no problems. Then, 2 hours later, I went to go ride home. The bike started up just fine and I rode off. About 2 miles into the ride, I got on the highway and it seemed to accelerate normally in 1st gear. When I shifted to 2nd, I revved the engine, but the bike did not seem to accelerate normally. Shifted to 3rd, same thing. Regardless if I kept the rpms at 4,000 or above 7,000, it would only go 30 mph. Shifted to 4th. Still stayed at 30 mph. I revved it to redline, and there was no acceleration whatsoever. I pulled over to the side of the rode, turned the bike off for a few minutes, turned it back on and let it idle for a few minutes, then got back on the highway. Same issue persisted, so I rode the last 3 miles back home at 30 mph.

I do not have much motorcycle experience, but most of what I've read online is pointing to the clutch slipping. The bike only has 390 miles on it, and I changed the oil once using Honda 10W-30.

Any ideas?

2015 Grom
Modifications:
MNNTHBX exhaust
Chimera Intake
Finbro ECU
pcx150 injector
Everything else is stock
 

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Clutch glazed maybe? Does it seem like the rpms are climbing faster than usual? Smell burning clutch under heavy load?

Josh
 

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I don't like 10-30 oil unless I use it in my Harley. I believe grom is 10-40 oil. Also I would not use synthic oil till about 2000-5000 miles on the engine.

recheck your oil level to make sure you have oil in the grom. You did say you changed hardware in the grom and did a oil change so things that can go wrong is not tighten down the oil drain nut under the engine.

Having the gross wt that the grom can handle, or riding the clutch causing the clutch plate to glaze over, not checking clutch adjustment at the clutch lever if you changed hardware such as handle bar and such.

Good luck
 

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10W-30 is what Honda recommends. Cisco is right about breaking in on conventional oil.

Sounds like a warranty job to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Clutch glazed maybe? Does it seem like the rpms are climbing faster than usual? Smell burning clutch under heavy load?
The rpms seem to climb freely to redline in 3rd and 4th gear, like it would in neutral. Doesn't smell like the clutch is burning under any circumstance, though.


I don't like 10-30 oil unless I use it in my Harley. I believe grom is 10-40 oil. Also I would not use synthic oil till about 2000-5000 miles on the engine.


recheck your oil level to make sure you have oil in the grom. You did say you changed hardware in the grom and did a oil change so things that can go wrong is not tighten down the oil drain nut under the engine.
My bad on the typo. I changed the oil with 10-40 (non-synthetic).

I'll double check the oil level and make sure everything was put back together correctly.

Thanks for the replies!
 

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The rpms seem to climb freely to redline in 3rd and 4th gear, like it would in neutral. Doesn't smell like the clutch is burning under any circumstance, though.




My bad on the typo. I changed the oil with 10-40 (non-synthetic).

I'll double check the oil level and make sure everything was put back together correctly.

Thanks for the replies!
You'll never smell the clutch. It's bathed in the engine oil. It won't put off a burning smell like a car
 

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It's almost certainly the clutch,
putting the wrong oil or an additive in the oil might cause the clutch to slip but I don't know if to that extent,
i think that is potentially possible though. Not all motorcycle oils (and not many car oils) are designed for wet clutch application.

However it almost sounds to me like a clutch spring has failed in the clutch or one of the clutch packs has delaminated.

either way your gonna have to get the clutch out and check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The issue was the clutch wasn't adjusted correctly and there was no play, so while riding the clutch was slipping. Fixed! Thanks everyone for the replies!
 

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^^^ Most common cause of a slipping clutch. People adjust the play to change where the clutch "grabs" on the lever throw and end up "preloading" the lever. If you really thrashed it while it was slipping (redline for a while), it's possible you'll need to replace the clutch soon, or maybe you'll be fine. Less than $50 for the friction plates from the dealer.
 
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