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Hi all
I recently changed my grom oil to 15w40 Rotella. Since doing so I'm having a hard time shifting into neutral. My bike only has 1k miles on it. Is the oil too thick? Ive tried adjusting clutch. Please help
 

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:cool: I run the same oil and alot of the trouble with trying to get into neutral is due to the shitty linkage they have on them, under the rubber caps is just a piece of steel rod with bends at each end , no joint, just rod through the hole, very baggy, you can get a long shifter lever and get rid of the orig junk,or when coming up to a stop bump it into neutral before you stop or find neutral after the engine is turned off, hope that helps ya, I also change the oil at 800-1000 miles, it's only 1 quart....AND always drain when hot, like after a ride...clean oil helps the shifting...(y)
 

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You might also try to put the bike in neutral before you come to a stop. Much easier that way.
 

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My 2018 Grom was pretty easy to find neutral from the very beginning. I never understood why so many people complained about it.

One day I asked a guy at my local Honda dealer why so many people had trouble. He said some Groms were just more difficult than others. Maybe he is correct.

A couple of months after getting my Grom, I added the Hard Racing Shifter Shaft Support. A nice piece. This seemed to make everything even better.

Last week I added the Kitaco Adjustable Shifter Link. Many people just make their own shift link, but I think I paid about $17.00 from Webike Japan.

I am blown away at how precise the shifting is now. I’m not joking at all. For a $3000 dollar motorcycle, it’s pretty good. There is almost no slop in the shifter whatsoever. You just barely have to click the shifter up or down to make shifts.

Neutral is easy to find every time. It feels different. You can tell it is neutral.

Also, I run Motul 300v 10w40 oil.
 

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My 2018 Grom was pretty easy to find neutral from the very beginning. I never understood why so many people complained about it.

One day I asked a guy at my local Honda dealer why so many people had trouble. He said some Groms were just more difficult than others. Maybe he is correct.

A couple of months after getting my Grom, I added the Hard Racing Shifter Shaft Support. A nice piece. This seemed to make everything even better.

Last week I added the Kitaco Adjustable Shifter Link. Many people just make their own shift link, but I think I paid about $17.00 from Webike Japan.

I am blown away at how precise the shifting is now. I’m not joking at all. For a $3000 dollar motorcycle, it’s pretty good. There is almost no slop in the shifter whatsoever. You just barely have to click the shifter up or down to make shifts.

Neutral is easy to find every time. It feels different. You can tell it is neutral.

Also, I run Motul 300v 10w40 oil.
Same here. I've never had trouble finding neutral on mine. I have the HR shaft support but havent even installed it yet. I havent had time to install it or the shift linkage mod but assume it can only get better.
 

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I had the Sato Racing support (which is basically the same as the G-Craft unit that HR copied). It didn't make a difference at all.

Finding neutral is worse on the Grom than any other bike I've owned, but it's not impossible. Rigid boots make a world of difference.
 

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I always ride in Alpinestars SMX-6 V2 Vented Boots if I leave my street. If I’m just on my street testing out a new part, I’m usually wearing athletic shoes. The shifting is the exact same. There must be significant differences in how various Groms shift.
 

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That’s actually great oil, and I’ve run it in 15 bikes over the years. Grab our shift lever (or somebody else’s) and ditch the needless linkage. Should fix what ales you.....
 

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That’s actually great oil, and I’ve run it in 15 bikes over the years. Grab our shift lever (or somebody else’s) and ditch the needless linkage. Should fix what ales you.....
Correct me if I'm wrong, but this only works if you retain stock pegs, right? Once you move on to rear-sets, these fixed levers are too far from the toe, correct?
 

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Any quality rearset will include its own pegs, linkage, and shifter.
Doesn't really answer my question. Yes, all rear-sets will include this. The linkage still sucks on most. Can the two products you sell be flipped backwards and still clear the crankcase? I realize this would reverse the shift pattern.
 

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Doesn't really answer my question. Yes, all rear-sets will include this. The linkage still sucks on most. Can the two products you sell be flipped backwards and still clear the crankcase? I realize this would reverse the shift pattern.
Probably if you wear a size 2 shoe. "The linkage still sucks on most" only applies because "most" buy some import Amazon junk rear sets. Use a quality reset like Driven, and get quality linkage, no different than any liter bike on the track....
 

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Probably if you wear a size 2 shoe. "The linkage still sucks on most" only applies because "most" buy some import Amazon junk rear sets. Use a quality reset like Driven, and get quality linkage, no different than any liter bike on the track....
I've never personally subjected myself to cheap motorcycle controls so I cannot comment. I have used Sato and Endurance and frankly, both suck (in terms of shift feel) despite the overall high quality of the parts. I've ridden a Grom with Driven sets and they were about the same. All three of those use spherical bearings and adjustable linkages but nothing would beat a direct-mounted lever; every piece of hardware between the foot and shift fork will have some tolerance slop. In any case, that answer's the original question - these levers are for use with stock pegs only; thanks!

EDIT: I should mention that the problem might just lie within the crankcase itself. I've been able to slip between 3rd-4th on multiple occasions so the motor's origins as a scooter motor with sloppy tolerances may just be presenting themselves.
 

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I have the Driven rearsets and while I love the feet positioning and look, I am not a fan of the shift linkage itself. It was MUCH easier to find nuetral on the stock linkgage, now I have to be rolling or engine off unless I want to overshoot it 5 or 6 times. The rod ends came too long to set the linkgage to the recommended length for standard shift, and have to be trimmed. Also my Driven exhaust hanger bracket broke from normal riding and allowed my Hindle to scratch my swingarm, I emailed Driven 3 weeks ago and still no response. I Fabbed a new bracket from Stainless Steel in the meantime.
 
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