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I just replaced my 2014 grom system stator and rectifier with a 2017 stator and rectifier and have had zero issues with my LED H4 blub for my head light and my front and rear LED blinker/marker lights. It was cheaper to replace the to the 2017 stator and rectifier than using one of those gojin rectifier unit that have left a few of my grom friends stranded on the side of the road when the gojin rectifier failed.

The only sad thing is the license plate LED bulb replacement keeps burning the whole LED rear lic LED circuit out and you need a resistor load to fix that.
 

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ive never had issues with the '14 setup working well to be honest. Im just replacing my stock battery now, out of caution. led headlight never had an issue either. Only elec issue i ever had, wasn't, it was a smoked stator after a very high speed/rpm run that prompted a 4th bearing. I just put the gojin one in to try it, and the HL is now just more stable at idle. (had a slight pulse before).
 

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Is there anyone that can make some sense of all this for me??? I’ve swapped in an SF R/R to my OG and I’m measuring 18v at the headlight harness with the bike running. I had to repin my H4 headlight connector to work with the LED headlight, switching the ground and high beam wires did the trick. Im in the process of putting it all back together but I’m worried about the 18v measurement. The battery only measures 13.5v but the headlights are 18???
 
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