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Just fit the finbro ecu and although it starts ok now, i think it is going to need some help in the colder months.
Anyone got pics of their cold start switch setup, im not too good with electrics and would like an idea of what im up against
Cheers
Jay
 

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Many thanks fella, is your setup using the cel light as an cold start indicator.
I know im a pain but has anyone got pics of the componants connected ie the diodes and cap.
Thanks
Jay
 

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Off topic, but hows the fitment of that wrap? Ive been looking for one for a while and i see they have a lot of them. Just curious as to the quality/etc.

Hi Turp,
Well the vinyl is quite thick, almost twice as thick or more as the 3M vinyl, its got like 2 layers. So it was difficult almost impossible for it to wrap around the sharper edges and bends of the body because the vinyl wasn't very pliable. I had to do a lot of cutting , trimming, edge hashing and swearing because the fitment was sub par. I rate the fitment 6 out of 10 stars. I used a new razor, heat gun, tennis ball (to smooth, paste the vinyl) and a lot of patience. But I''m satisfied with the end result. 2 years later, it's still holding up (these vinyls are supposed to have a 5 year life span).
 

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OK grommers, this is one way of building the finbro cold start fix circuit, including the CEL on/off indicator. Pardon the crudeness, but I have no access to any illustrator software, so camera pics only.

Please make sure the diodes and capacitor are in the correct polarity (do not reverse) or else KABOOM. It's easy to check it. Each diode will have a silver band on one end. The banded end is the negative or ground. The capacitor has a negative (-) label with a directional arrow. Follow the label to ground.

Solder or crimp, use whatever method you prefer. I crimped all my connections to make it easier if I ever wanted to return to stock. And don't forget to add the heat shrink tubing as you make the connections.

Special thanks to Nd4spdbh for bringing this to light.

Parts list:
wire stripper/crimper, 18AWG stranded wire, cutter, lighter or heat gun, heat shrink tubing (make sure it can fit over the capacitor), T-tap, various male/female connectors(spade, fork, ring, crimp), DPDT switch, electric tape, 2 X diodes (1N4001), 1 x 68uF electrolytic capacitor.




The two middle prongs on the switch are both connected to ground.










 

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Nice but I dont see the issue, just open the throttle a tiny bit for 10 seconds and its good to go? Or are people having other issues? My 235cc has always started fine with a touch of throttle (only been down to 32 degrees tho)
 

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Nice but I dont see the issue, just open the throttle a tiny bit for 10 seconds and its good to go? Or are people having other issues? My 235cc has always started fine with a touch of throttle (only been down to 32 degrees tho)
The circuit described in the thread simulates an enrichment circuit, you are sort of manually simulating a "fast idle" circuit with the throttle. I think the circuit here is a clever solution to a problem that I'm surprised exists in an aftermarket ECU at all- I would have thought that it would have a "cold start" factor in its fueling equations, since that was a standard feature in the open-source ECUs 15+ years ago.
 

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I'll be doing this as soon as I actually feel my bike have an issue to start..at what temp do you guys think you start seeing cold start problems..here in central Florida I have yet to have an issue starting the bike with this ecu..and I love the adjusted rev limit..especially when I'm turning off my street onto the highway...that little extra allows me too get out of my turn without hitting the limit.
 

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I was thinking about that myself. I wonder if it has to do with the ECU's coming out of Thailand. My brother used to live there and he said it was hot most of the time. I might be way off, though.
 

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Makes complete sense. When I was working on an old RX7 that had an intake air leak from someone doing an incorrect emissions system removal, I saw a lot of guys marking up the carburetor diagrams for part removal saying "remove this fast idle crap, why would anyone want that?" Of course they all lived in Florida.
 

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That's fine but 2k is too high. It also wouldn't have helped mine start, it wanted a richer mix not just more mix. Opening the throttle never helped anything.
 

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I was thinking about that myself. I wonder if it has to do with the ECU's coming out of Thailand. My brother used to live there and he said it was hot most of the time. I might be way off, though.
You're exactly right.

The ECU comes from a Thailand domestic Honda which doesn't have (because it doesn't need) a cold start circuit.
 

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That's fine but 2k is too high. It also wouldn't have helped mine start, it wanted a richer mix not just more mix. Opening the throttle never helped anything.

2000 rpm is not too high of an idle for a big bore cammed air cooled single cylinder?! Especially without an oil spinner (flywheel mass) and high compression. My aprilia SXV 550cc vtwin idles at 2000 rpm hot. Actually before I adjusted the idle on mine I do recall it starting then immediately stalling when cold. Once the idle was set to ~1900 hot I have a first start every time. It will drop down when cold and studder a bit, opening the throttle and revving to 2500-3k for 10-15 seconds or so would fix it. Again its awesome your making a cold start and what not but if people cant handle getting a bike making 2-3x its original horsepower to start and idle they should move on and buy a larger bike that makes the power they need stock. Thats not directed at you a_morti. You are doing this for convenience and as a project I think. I just keep seeing way too many people complaining about the finbro stuff without any exp.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
even if i set my hot idle rpms at 2k cold starting with the finbro ecu was a pain, my mod make it to where you can flip the switch, get on the bike and ride it like stock and not have to worry about keeping the throttle cracked when you come to a stop and its cold.
 

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Madgrommer, I didn't like it so combined with the threat of the cops pursuing incorrect details on the registration docs and therefore no insurance, I sold the 183 and fitted takegawa cam and Fi con. Starts like stock, idles smooth, but doesn't exactly power wheelie like the 183 did.
 
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