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Discussion Starter #1
Tell me about your experiences with the Takegawa 4th Crank Support Bearing.

Is it worth it?

I’ve done searches and opinions seem mixed. In one thread, Cisco says he was removing his, then at a later date in another thread, he said he was reinstalling it.

Do you need to drill the oil passage hole on the newest version for a Grom SF?
 

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the 4th bearing is needed, I removed the 15D Takegawa cam and reinstalled th 10D cam and now is testing the 15D cam again since I have a updated mini 5 Aracer ECU that can be programmed via smart phone using the Aracer app.

I have a 2014 grom and I updated the stator and rectifier to the 2017 unit so I had to remove the older 4th bearing setup and install the newer 4th bearing setup due to the way the mounting bracket is made for the bearing to the stator of the 2017
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When installing the nut on the crankshaft to secure the flywheel, what are you using to keep the motor from turning over?

Do those band type flywheel holding tools work? Put it in high gear and hold the rear brake?
 

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Having the right tools always makes the job easier. The flywheel holder tool is worth it if you have a group of friends with Groms. It holds the clutch AND flywheel if you ever need to remove either. However, you can get away with using a strap type filter wrench to hold it.

I have the oil mod drilled into my cover for the bearing support mod. Seems to be working out great for me. If you look at fast grom builds, they almost always have one installed.
 

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The strap is almost a requirement for left-side engine work. The right-side can be dealt with by using a quarter jammed between gears.

Putting the bike in gear and having someone hold the rear brake works, too.
 

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Just use your impact and hit it!
 

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Mine "may" have contributed to shavings in my oil and a dead stator after 4k miles. Drilled oil hole as well. I was recommended by very reputable builders here in SD that you will be fine without.

Just my 0.02.
 

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I've only had mine installed for the past 500 miles or so since I did the motor/trans build, and it's held up well so far. I didn't drill out the cover. The last time I pulled the inspection plug there was oil right at the bearing and on the backside of the inspection plug itself. I think if you do regular hard cornering on the left side it will naturally get oil to the bearing, if not, just tip the bike over on the left side every once in a while lol.

It only makes sense to me that having a 4th bearing support would be beneficial if you're making high HP or revving much higher RPM. My limiter is set to 11,000 RPM right now, and it will occasionally see it, I see it as cheap insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mine "may" have contributed to shavings in my oil and a dead stator after 4k miles.
Did the bearing disintegrate and have to be replaced?

I do like the idea of the additional bearing, especially as you increase horsepower and raise the rev limiter.

I believe this isn’t anything new. I think Takegawa offers this for other bikes as well.

It is good to hear that oil is getting to the backside of the bearing. I’m not sure if I will drill the oil hole or not. Regardless, I’ll keep an eye on it once it is installed.
 

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Depends on your build to appreciate the value of 4th bearing.

Me personally was worth doing for 2 benefits

High Comp Piston / High Rev Cam
Future BBK Plans

SF model does not need Hole mod... View attachment 86582
Got the bearing support. I have an SF but haven't installed it. I was planing on drilling the hole. Just curious on your comment that SF don't need the hole. Any reason why?

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You only want to drill that hole so that oil can get to the bearing but with the SF it is not needed because of the design...

Pic post above proves this
Thanks a lot! Saw the pictures and looked at the kit. I can see the stepped design and how oil will flow in. Thanks for the info

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You only want to drill that hole so that oil can get to the bearing but with the SF it is not needed because of the design...

Pic post above proves this
Not sure if this helps anyone. These are the holder for the bearing.From what i learned the left one in the picture is for the OG Grom. The right side is for the SF Grom. Also included picture of the SF part. You can better see the difference in design and the step that allows oil in from what i gather


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Discussion Starter #16
I didn’t end up drilling the oil passage hole. I hope enough oil finds its way to the bearing. We’ll see how it goes.

To remove the flywheel nut, I used an impact wrench.

To install, here is how I held the flywheel. First I cleaned all of the oil off of the outer surface of the flywheel with Simple Green. Next, I used an inexpensive rubber strap wrench from Harbor Freight. I cleaned the rubber strap to make sure it had no oil on it, which could lead to slippage. Then I placed the strap wrench up against the rear set. As I tightened the nut with the torque wrench the strap wrench wedged in place locking everything up. Torqued to 47 ft. pounds. This worked really well for me.
86653
 

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I didn’t end up drilling the oil passage hole. I hope enough oil finds its way to the bearing. We’ll see how it goes.

To remove the flywheel nut, I used an impact wrench.

To install, here is how I held the flywheel. First I cleaned all of the oil off of the outer surface of the flywheel with Simple Green. Next, I used an inexpensive rubber strap wrench from Harbor Freight. I cleaned the rubber strap to make sure it had no oil on it, which could lead to slippage. Then I placed the strap wrench up against the rear set. As I tightened the nut with the torque wrench the strap wrench wedged in place locking everything up. Torqued to 47 ft. pounds. This worked really well for me. View attachment 86653
I haven't installed mine as I dropped the bearing taking the pictures :/ buy found the bearing online and just ordered the bearing. I also got a very similar tool i got from northern tools. Gonna give that a try. If not I'll just get the flywheel holder

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