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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The EJK came with excellent instructions. Please refer to the EJK factory instruction when installing the EJK controller in your Grom. This thread is just to show some additional images and methods to supplement the EJK instructions. I will also post my tuning effort.

Remove the left and right side body panels from the Grom. If you have never done this before, the EJK instructions describe how to do it very clearly.

I chose to mount the EJK unit under the seat. I wanted it secured flat and that required I remove some of the plastic under the seat. There are two main wire harnesses and a ground wire that come off the EJK unit. One to the left side of the bike and one to the right. The one with the yellow and red wires goes to the left side and the one with the purple wires goes to the right side. As the instructions clearly say, make sure you don't route the wires where they will be pinched or touch hot parts of the engine. But also pay close attention to wire chaffing. Wires that are loose and floppy can wear against parts of the bike and the engine vibration will eventually cause the wires to be sawed into. This can create short circuits years down the road and can be hell to find and fix, so proper wire routing is by far the most time consuming part of this install.

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Injector connector is easy to get to on the left side. Was marked with blue paint on my bike. These connectors should not require any twisting or bending to remove but they do have a water tight seal so are snug. Just pinch the lock tab and pull firmly. If it does not come apart, you are not squeezing he lock tab enough.

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You are just pluggin the factory plug in-line with the EJK unit. The connectors only fit one way so don't force them, just line them up and connect.

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Carefully fold the extra harness wire in to a bunch and secure to existing harness making sure it is not on a hot part and that it will not chafe against an edge or something. Easy, now go to the right side and find the 02 sensor connector.

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Your right side may look a little different than mine because I did the Stroked-GT radiator hose/KTM filter intake mod. My 02 sensor wire has a small piece of yellow tape wrapped around it. Remember, this is a single wire inside heat protection tubing, be gentle.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The 02 connector is just as easy as the injector on the other side. You are just plugging the factory connector in-line with the EJK harness.

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I tied my EJK harness to the factory harness.

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I removed some of the plastic tool kit holder to make room to fit the EJK unit flat. I used a Dremel and a cutoff disk. This plastic is tough and rubbery. You can see molten plastic splatter inside the tool kit area.

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I routed the EJK harnesses along with the factory harnesses on either side of the battery.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The instructions say to attach the EJK ground wire to the same bolt as the Honda factory ground wires. I believe either of the two bolts behind the gas tank are acceptable place to ground. I chose the left side bolt because sometimes you can mangle a crowded group of ground wires when tightening a ground bolt. The cluster of green factory ground wires are nice and neat and I left them alone and just used the other bolt.

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Regardless of wich ground bolt you use, you will have extra ground wire that needs to be coiled and secured. I secured mine along with the EJK injector harness to a factory harness.

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Thanks for taking the time to post your info regarding the install. It'll be a great help to many people.
I've just had a good look through EJK's website, lots of really good information on there including a controller simulator and recommended settings for a stage 1 tune (intake & exhaust mod).

I know exactly what controller I want to go for now.
Thanks for the info. :)

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wish when we do these upgrades we have a base line dyne run and then do the upgrade and have another dyne run. I assume there will be no hp gain with this mod but performance gain as far as when you want your fuel mixture to come in and what level. I assume that your mpg will be affected a lot.

thanks for sharing the information and pic. Great write up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is a quote from Dobeck Performance with some additional tuning tips. I ripped it from the EJK thread over here.

"The reason that the fueling starts to change around 7,000 RPM is because the ECU is switching from a closed loop fuel map to an open loop fuel map. We are using the narrow band O2 sensor to help manipulate the fueling on the Grom. You are going to want to adjust the green/blue fourth mode, which is the VC Offset, in order to tune in below 7,000 RPM. Try adjusting it down (to the left) one one light increment at a time and then go and ride it to see how it feels and where the AFR is at, if you have an AFR gauge. By adjusting the green/blue (4th)mode, you will be changing the entire stock fuel map. You may need to make adjustments to the green (1st), yellow (2nd) and red (3rd) modes as well, depending on how much you change the green/blue (4th) mode. Again, the fueling is changing because the ECU is making adjustments to the fueling based on the narrow band O2 sensor below 7,000 RPM. Above 7,000 RPM the ECU is making open loop adjustments based on what the O2 sensor readings were at the 7,000 RPM switch point. So, if you were adding 20% fuel based on the O2 sensor readings when it went into open loop, it will continue to make a 20% adjustment throughout WOT above 7,000 RPM. The narrow band O2 sensor is very involved in the fueling of this bike.

The Grom ECU has a base fueling map that it makes small adjustments to based on the narrow band O2 sensor readings it is getting. When in closed loop it is making these adjustments on the fly, when in open loop, it is making these adjustments based on what the average change was during closed loop. If you haven't already reset your ECU, it may be helpful depending on what types of changes you have previously made to your Grom, before installing the EJK.

The EJK is working off of load based technology. It is monitoring a couple of different signals coming out of the ECU to determine what type of load is being placed on the engine. We are not just comparing RPM's to throttle position. This means that the EJK is constantly making adjustments to the fueling based on the real world riding environment. It is fueling the Grom differently at the same RPM's and throttle position, for each gear. A good example of this would be riding through hilly areas or in strong winds. The EJK can sense when you are riding up or down hill, or, when you are riding with a strong tail wind or into a strong head wind. It senses this because the load on the engine changes and then the EJK makes adjustments to the fueling accordingly.

Just a basic run through of the six modes that you are adjusting on the Grom EJK:

Green (1st) mode-allows you make adjustments to the idle/light cruise fueling. When your Grom is sitting there idling or when you are already up to a speed and just maintaining that speed.
Yellow (2nd) mode-allows you to adjust the fueling during acceleration. Anytime you are accelerating, this is the mode that is affecting the fueling.
Red (3rd) mode-WOT. Anytime you are at WOT this is the mode affecting your fueling.
Green/Blue (4th) mode-This is controlling the VC Offset. We are using the narrow band O2 sensor to affect the overall fueling map of the Grom. Adjusting this mode will affect the entire fuel map, not just individual parts of the power curve.
Yellow/Blue (5th) mode-The yellow (2nd) mode lower switch point. This mode allows you to bring the acceleration fueling in sooner or later, depending on how you want your Grom to run.
Red/Blue (6th) mode-The red (3rd) mode lower switch point. This mode allows you to bring the WOT fueling in sooner or later, depending on how you would like your Grom to run.

Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thank you for choosing Dobeck Performance."
 

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How is the throttle response? I installed a rs-9 full yoshi system and it seems the throttle response is a little soft and the idle speed hunts between 1400 and 1600 when the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start the bike from cold the idle is more consistent . Thanks for you input!
 
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