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When I was running stock bore, cam and compression I kept it in the low 14's. Ran a little peppier and cooler. Going into the 13's didn't seem to do anything but hurt the fuel economy. You should throw a TB cam in there.
 

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When I was running stock bore, cam and compression I kept it in the low 14's. Ran a little peppier and cooler. Going into the 13's didn't seem to do anything but hurt the fuel economy. You should throw a TB cam in there.
Likely my next mod, just didn't know where a ideal target was...had read 12.7ish so you'd suggest leaner?..low voltage line will manage the 13.5 in closed according to my findings. So is it suggested to ramp up the target slowly or just enter 13.0 in all cells from 2k and up? Maybe a little fatter in the higher rpm? Sorry still learning. Thanks for any feedback.
 

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12.7 is good for a high compression/big bore setup. I mean, if you want to run it rich, by all means do. It's just not necessary with your current setup. Once you get a cam you can actually put that expensive fuel controller to use.

As far as how to enter it in the cells, everyone does it differently. I've seen people put one value in the 80% column, let's say 13.5, and then a little richer in the 100% column, like 13.3. It's also common to see it get richer at the higher revs, like you said. I think I have mine start getting richer at ~8k rpms?
 

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12.7 is good for a high compression/big bore setup. I mean, if you want to run it rich, by all means do. It's just not necessary with your current setup. Once you get a cam you can actually put that expensive fuel controller to use.

As far as how to enter it in the cells, everyone does it differently. I've seen people put one value in the 80% column, let's say 13.5, and then a little richer in the 100% column, like 13.3. It's also common to see it get richer at the higher revs, like you said. I think I have mine start getting richer at ~8k rpms?
Thanks for the info
 

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FYI all WB2-ers. I have recently learned that it's possible to re-flash your own WB2 to different target AF numbers in the 0-80% throttle range. Download this software package from Dynojet:

https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Software/dynojet_power_core_setup_v1.11.4.24032.exe&h=ATMfBV0kmaPONr9hOEPBQv_j1wbUQgxekgpOblUc26t-C_-fpTn-EUhuFw5z-Q4KpRMlBkmPBED9fj4Nf6ncNuMVJyNiYe12oxTg58MwB7CkyCgOhG_oXK4z5A

Open the C3 program in the package, then plug in your computer to the PCV just like you would with the normal Power Commander software. On the top bar, click "configure" for WB2. Use this voltage table to enter the voltage number you want to give the target AFR you're looking to run. I used it successfully after installing a BBK on my bike :) This info was given to me on one of the FB Grom groups. I figured that it would be a good thing to share here.
29388754_10155164402276786_4887304545431499330_n.jpg

Cheers!
Stephen
 

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FYI all WB2-ers. I have recently learned that it's possible to re-flash your own WB2 to different target AF numbers in the 0-80% throttle range. Download this software package from Dynojet:

https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Software/dynojet_power_core_setup_v1.11.4.24032.exe&h=ATMfBV0kmaPONr9hOEPBQv_j1wbUQgxekgpOblUc26t-C_-fpTn-EUhuFw5z-Q4KpRMlBkmPBED9fj4Nf6ncNuMVJyNiYe12oxTg58MwB7CkyCgOhG_oXK4z5A

Open the C3 program in the package, then plug in your computer to the PCV just like you would with the normal Power Commander software. On the top bar, click "configure" for WB2. Use this voltage table to enter the voltage number you want to give the target AFR you're looking to run. I used it successfully after installing a BBK on my bike :) This info was given to me on one of the FB Grom groups. I figured that it would be a good thing to share here.
View attachment 74180

Cheers!
Stephen
You even used my screen capture with the voltages as well as my words


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Turpintator posted about doing this with C3 years ago, IIRC. I've been using it for at least a year and a half to adjust the lambda setting on the WB2.
 

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Would anyone happen to have a map for the PCV with TB cam, aftermarket filter in standard box and arrow exhaust? For some reason mine has started to go stupidly lean at around 6500 and is unrideable. Also if I have the WB2 can I just use a blank map with no trims and fill the 80-100% columns in the autotune table to let the wb2 do all the work?


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Also if I have the WB2 can I just use a blank map with no trims and fill the 80-100% columns in the autotune table to let the wb2 do all the work?


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Yes, if you have a WB2 unit and you set a Target air fuel in the 80%-100% the unit will auto tune..once you turn on the feature.
 

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you need to leave everything under 80% at 0. the wb2 will fill in this gap if you get it. IF you have it populated under 80 either way you are just fighting the stock ecu.
 

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you need to leave everything under 80% at 0. the wb2 will fill in this gap if you get it. IF you have it populated under 80 either way you are just fighting the stock ecu.
Yeah that’s what I went with, I got rid of the yoshi with pod map and loaded in the two bros with pod map, zero’d out all the trims but left the ignition table as it was, set my wb2 and the 80% column to 13.5 and the 100% column to 13.3, went to work and back and the autotune trims are now adding fuel instead of removing fuel like the yoshi map was showing. I’ve accepted the trims so hopefully this is a step in the right direction. Any tips on ignition advance as the yoshi map seems to have a lot more advance than the two bros one.


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Green wire for the win^
What do you mean by green wire? I have the green wire connected to the old narrowband o2 sensor wire and the o2 sensor removed as per hard racing’s instructions


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Right , you did it correct. I was making reference the low voltage output and it controlling the >80% target afr. Seldom do people post accurate information and they always wanna add targets to the 0-60, effectively pissing the ecm off. I'm running a similar config, zero'd ignition tables /fuel and am running a bit richer 12.7.- 12-5
 

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FYI if your o2 wideband sensor goes bad, and you want to try something other than Bosch (I've been through 3 bosch sensors in the last year), the NTK/NGK 24320 will plug n play with the WB2. Here's hoping that these ones last a little longer against potential moisture. With my Brock's AH2, and no garage/covered storage, I'm pretty sure that moisture has been killing all my bosch sensors--even taken to covering the end of the exhaust pipe every night and if it's going to rain.
Hope this info helps!
S
 

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Hi,

is it possible to get the speedometer-signal AND a temperature-signal into the PC5+WB2 ?
Can i have only one at time because of an missing second analog input ?

(i own the POD 300 and it would be great to show the head temp on it.)

Greetings from Germany
CmStorm
 

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Does anyone know if the bung that comes on the Hindle full system is already in the correct location for the WB2 oxygen sensor?
 
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