Got it from eBay, because I'm in the UK our rip-off prices meant it would be around £125 ($162) at auto stores so after a bit of searching managed to find someone having a sale on them and paid £56 ($72) for a genuine Bosch item.
Knew straight away it was that before I even started the bike I did the sensor test and it flashed correctly for my altitude whereas before it was just constantly flashing.
I recently installed a Take 4 valve with Koso 34mm TB and Forza 10 hole injector (part n 16450-MGC-D21). I tried to get trims a few times but had none, first thought it was because of low throttle positions but I'm beginning to ride WOT and still don't get any trims... I'm familiar with the PCV and WB2 as I used them a year ago on another Grom (same units, worked fine).
PCV works fine, WB2 seems to work fine (green light is on), it will correct to 13.5 at idle and on light throttle, autotune is enabled, connections seem fine, did reset the ECU and TPS both on the bike and through Dynojet software prior to riding it, checked it and all is good... Beats me! Anyone any idea what's happening (or not!)?
I recently installed a Take 4 valve with Koso 34mm TB and Forza 10 hole injector (part n 16450-MGC-D21). I tried to get trims a few times but had none, first thought it was because of low throttle positions but I'm beginning to ride WOT and still don't get any trims... I'm familiar with the PCV and WB2 as I used them a year ago on another Grom (same units, worked fine).
PCV works fine, WB2 seems to work fine (green light is on), it will correct to 13.5 at idle and on light throttle, autotune is enabled, connections seem fine, did reset the ECU and TPS both on the bike and through Dynojet software prior to riding it, checked it and all is good... Beats me! Anyone any idea what's happening (or not!)?
No, I don't have access to that laptop right now but AFR tables are 0 in the 0-60% TP columns and 12.5 in the 80-100 columns.
The ''Auto Tune'' in the ''Features enables and input selections'' window seemed to be lightly greyed out, if that makes sens... But I'm able to check and uncheck it, can't remember if it used to be like that.
hi! the speed sensor cable from up the pinion connector should be connected to pcv only? :redface-new: I readen all topics but i'm not really sure.. or it should be connected to pcv AND its original path... thank you in advance..
hi! the speed sensor cable from up the pinion connector should be connected to pcv only? :redface-new: I readen all topics but i'm not really sure.. or it should be connected to pcv AND its original path... thank you in advance..
No, I don't have access to that laptop right now but AFR tables are 0 in the 0-60% TP columns and 12.5 in the 80-100 columns.
The ''Auto Tune'' in the ''Features enables and input selections'' window seemed to be lightly greyed out, if that makes sens... But I'm able to check and uncheck it, can't remember if it used to be like that.
Started fresh with a new map, entered some of the values I had in the fuel tables to compensate for the big injector at lower revs, created auto tune tables and entered target AFRs and all is fine.
No idea what happened and I don't really care, it's working... :smug:
After tidying up some of the wiring under my seat, I think I finally got my WBC2 wired properly. The PCV light was fine, the WBC2 had a constant flash. Now, after about 16 flashes, the green light holds steady on the WBC2. I haven't hooked up my AFR gauge yet, I'll try to put that on this morning. Because I was unable to get the WBC2 to work correctly, I've been running 100LL(Low Lead) airplane gas to prevent detonation in case the bike gets too lean. After doing several long runs in varying ambient temperatures(70°F to 105°F), I wasn't having any excessive heat readings when comparing my bike with my friend's stock grom. I've ridden it like that for the last 4000 miles or so. My main issue with the avgas is limited range because I can't fill up at any regular pump stations. Before tidying/soldering/heat shrink: http://i.imgur.com/V3v98j8.jpg After more heat shrink wrap on excess wire: http://i.imgur.com/lD4NPy6.jpg
I have 2 questions related to my o2 sensor and the 100 LL avgas. When using the afr gauge or my tablet with dynojet software, what signs should I be looking for that would indicate a bad o2 sensor reading? Would it be best to gradually switch back to pump gas or will an immediate switch benefit computer learning, o2 sensor longevity, and overall adaptation to it running like it should?
My last question is about the ignition and adjusting trims. Do I need a separate key to remove the seat while the ignition is in the on position or will the data save when I power off the bike to remove the seat? (9/1)I was thinking I couldn't turn the bike off after a run. I've got it figured out now.
EDIT: Hooked up my digital gauge provided by Dynojet and it showed AFR of about 11.5(had it in 10v mode) and my tablet showed about 13.1 to 13.4 at idle after warming up. I topped off my 66% full 100LL jug with 91 octane and should run out of leaded gas within a week. I'm considering hiding a USB cable so that I can connect my computer to the PCV without removing the seat. Has anyone melted a USB cable doing this?
EDIT2: Did the o2 sensor test and it seemed correct. The elevation in Lubbock is 3200' and after flashing then going dim, the light blinked 3 times while doing the test. The sensor is covered in white dust from the leaded fuel though.
EDIT3: Ghetto rigged the gauge to my handlebars with an extra piece of 3M dual lock I had from the WBC2 install. I zip tied it into place so I wouldn't lose my gauge and cup if I hit a bump on the highway. The gauge seems to work fine. Can I get some guidance on the backlight and dimmer for the gauge? It's okay in the daytime but it may be a little bright for night riding. Dual lock and zip ties: http://i.imgur.com/mCZliER.jpg My camera rotation was off for this pic of the view from the top: http://i.imgur.com/FPR2GA8.jpg
EDIT4: Running great now. Since the 100LL hasn't seemed to affect the o2 sensor, I may mix it in the future with my pump gas. I've been filling up my 6gal jug about every 9 or 10 days. I'm still trying to work out my target AFR tables and haven't found that many people trying to make Groms go fast. I got a koso cam but I may end up selling it because of that flat spot in the power curves at about 5500 rpm. Here's a pic of one of my favorite roads
My specs:
Takegawa 143 bbk with Takegawa cam
Super Oil Pump & no oil cooler
Chimera intake
Full Yosh exhaust
16/34 sprockets
After tidying up some of the wiring under my seat, I think I finally got my WBC2 wired properly. The PCV light was fine, the WBC2 had a constant flash. Now, after about 16 flashes, the green light holds steady on the WBC2. I haven't hooked up my AFR gauge yet, I'll try to put that on this morning. Because I was unable to get the WBC2 to work correctly, I've been running 100LL(Low Lead) airplane gas to prevent detonation in case the bike gets too lean. After doing several long runs in varying ambient temperatures(70°F to 105°F), I wasn't having any excessive heat readings when comparing my bike with my friend's stock grom. I've ridden it like that for the last 4000 miles or so. My main issue with the avgas is limited range because I can't fill up at any regular pump stations.
I have 2 questions related to my o2 sensor and the 100 LL avgas. When using the afr gauge or my tablet with dynojet software, what signs should I be looking for that would indicate a bad o2 sensor reading? Would it be best to gradually switch back to pump gas or will an immediate switch benefit computer learning, o2 sensor longevity, and overall adaptation to it running like it should?
My last question is about the ignition and adjusting trims. Do I need a separate key to remove the seat while the ignition is in the on position or will the data save when I power off the bike to remove the seat?
My specs:
Takegawa 143 bbk with Takegawa cam
Super Oil Pump & no oil cooler
Chimera intake
Full Yosh exhaust
16/34 sprockets
Oh wow, I didn't realize you replied. It's working great now! I had forgotten about the data saving until I actually started the bike and ran it again. I ran through the last of my LL gas and pump gas makes it run pretty hot. I'll be adding a temp gauge and oil cooler soon. Until then, I'll mix some LL and pump gas to keep my temps within a lower range. It got pretty hot last night after a spirited ride on the highway. I'm using a Ryobi IR temp gun. On the head next to the spark plug, and between the fins on my jug I was getting about 280°F, and on the oil drain plug I was reading 240°F.
Got my cooler mounted up yesterday after work. The difference in temps between the inlet and outlet side was ~40°F. I measured the temp with my IR gun on the drain plug after a decent ride and got 185°F! No highway time yet, I was mostly checking for leaks and that the radiator wasn't moving around when I hit bumps in the road. Pics after installation: https://imgur.com/gallery/8wEsQ/comment/1127229071
Got rid of my HD yesterday! Shouldn't be too long before I've got a '17 FZ 09.
I was at the Sand sports Super Show here on the west coast, and spoke with a rep from Dynojet. Allegedly with the new Dynojet Powercore Software, you can adjust the closed loop portion of the Wideband 2. Can anyone confirm?
Got my cooler mounted up yesterday after work. The difference in temps between the inlet and outlet side was ~40°F. I measured the temp with my IR gun on the drain plug after a decent ride and got 185°F! No highway time yet, I was mostly checking for leaks and that the radiator wasn't moving around when I hit bumps in the road.
yeah as the pcv and wb tune it will run cooler getting the afrs where they need to be. i run mine on regular old 93 with 10% corn squeezins and the oil temps hover around 204 with the opmid oil temp gauge
I buyed a huawei P9 lite to use with C3 dynojet app
no device connected
I found P9 lite hasn't OTG feature
I won't root it etc
so
Buyed a Huawei P10 lite (I had previously checked the OTG feature before buying it)
no device connected
enabled debug USB & other developer shit
no device connected
I’m hoping some of you can help me figure out if there is an issue with my bike. I just installed an FMF full exhaust, Chimera intake, PCV, and Wideband 2 from HardRacing on my 2015 Grom. The bike is otherwise stock. The install went well, all connections are definitely secure, the software recognizes both the PCV and Wideband 2. And there is a solid green light on the wideband after idling for a short bit, Throttle is set properly as well. and I did the ecu and throttle reset as shown in HardRacing's video I did not install an AFR gauge so I can’t look at AFR’s while riding but at idle I see that it is sitting at 13.5 as preset by HardRacing. I first turned on auto tune with the suggested settings and set the target AFR for all cells above the 2% throttle to 13.5 (I later read that I should have only done that for 80 to 100% throttle cells which I did later and will talk about that as well).
I then went out for a ride for about 25 miles and came back to look at the trim values and I got a lot of -20 trims through the mid RPM range as you can see in the photo. I saw someone else on the forum who had a very similar trim but he apparently put a larger injector which makes sense that the Wideband 2 was trying to remove fuel. But I have a stock motor so does this seem right?I tried applying those trims and going for another ride and the performance did not seem to be affected at all. It seems to be running just fine with no bogging or no popping.
After spending a couple hours searching through the forums (so I don’t get flamed for asking a repeat question), I discovered that I should have only put target AFR values in the 80 to 100% throttle cells. So I started over with the base map, Only put target AFR’s of 13.5 in the 80 to 100% columns, And went back out for another ride. As you can see in the second photo I still got some relatively high negative trim values in those columns. So in the third photo you can see what the fuel map looks like after I applied those trims. Just doesn’t seem right to me that it would be removing so much fuel.
After the time I spent searching the forums I also found that the other potential issues could be an exhaust leak or intake leak. I did reuse the exhaust header gasket so I ordered a new one to try that but it has not come yet. In the meantime, I did spray a bunch of soapy water around the header connection and started the bike and did not see any air bubbles at all. I did the same for the header/muffler connection and also did not notice any leak. The air intake is definitely on snug with both hose clamps as well.
Does anyone have any idea why I would be getting these trim values? Or is it perhaps a normal variant? Do large negative values tend to indicate more towards a specific problem as opposed to if they were large positive values?
It is worth noting that my top speed did not improve at all from bone stock (64 mph on a slight downhill stretch from my house and 54 mph coming back up that stretch towards my house). I would assume after installing a full exhaust, intake, PCV and wideband 2 that I should’ve gained some top end right? It does feel like it pulls better from the bottom though.
Running out of things to do to the bike...
Magura HC1 15mm master and Hymec hydraulic clutch installed; just need to wrap up wiring with some DTM connectors.
Welcome to my work-from-home office:
I installed the Driven Racing TT rearsets on my 2020 Grom back in January. The exhaust hanger bracket broke on me last week. No impact to it, I assume it was the vibrations that killed it (Hindle exhaust by the way). Has anyone else seen this issue? Is everyone else solid mounting them or have...
I'm using the Takegawa slipper clutch with the SMR disc and plate kit (with a Kitaco right-side cover). After install, I'm having to back out both the lower and upper clutch cable adjusters to disengage the clutch. Anyone else noticed weird tolerance issues like this?
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