congrats, did you get your 02 sensor from a auto store????
Got it from eBay, because I'm in the UK our rip-off prices meant it would be around £125 ($162) at auto stores so after a bit of searching managed to find someone having a sale on them and paid £56 ($72) for a genuine Bosch item.congrats, did you get your 02 sensor from a auto store????
.I recently installed a Take 4 valve with Koso 34mm TB and Forza 10 hole injector (part n 16450-MGC-D21). I tried to get trims a few times but had none, first thought it was because of low throttle positions but I'm beginning to ride WOT and still don't get any trims... I'm familiar with the PCV and WB2 as I used them a year ago on another Grom (same units, worked fine).
PCV works fine, WB2 seems to work fine (green light is on), it will correct to 13.5 at idle and on light throttle, autotune is enabled, connections seem fine, did reset the ECU and TPS both on the bike and through Dynojet software prior to riding it, checked it and all is good... Beats me! Anyone any idea what's happening (or not!)?
Started fresh with a new map, entered some of the values I had in the fuel tables to compensate for the big injector at lower revs, created auto tune tables and entered target AFRs and all is fine.No, I don't have access to that laptop right now but AFR tables are 0 in the 0-60% TP columns and 12.5 in the 80-100 columns.
The ''Auto Tune'' in the ''Features enables and input selections'' window seemed to be lightly greyed out, if that makes sens... But I'm able to check and uncheck it, can't remember if it used to be like that.
.After tidying up some of the wiring under my seat, I think I finally got my WBC2 wired properly. The PCV light was fine, the WBC2 had a constant flash. Now, after about 16 flashes, the green light holds steady on the WBC2. I haven't hooked up my AFR gauge yet, I'll try to put that on this morning. Because I was unable to get the WBC2 to work correctly, I've been running 100LL(Low Lead) airplane gas to prevent detonation in case the bike gets too lean. After doing several long runs in varying ambient temperatures(70°F to 105°F), I wasn't having any excessive heat readings when comparing my bike with my friend's stock grom. I've ridden it like that for the last 4000 miles or so. My main issue with the avgas is limited range because I can't fill up at any regular pump stations.
I have 2 questions related to my o2 sensor and the 100 LL avgas. When using the afr gauge or my tablet with dynojet software, what signs should I be looking for that would indicate a bad o2 sensor reading? Would it be best to gradually switch back to pump gas or will an immediate switch benefit computer learning, o2 sensor longevity, and overall adaptation to it running like it should?
My last question is about the ignition and adjusting trims. Do I need a separate key to remove the seat while the ignition is in the on position or will the data save when I power off the bike to remove the seat?
Takegawa 143 bbk with Takegawa cam
Super Oil Pump & no oil cooler
Full Yosh exhaust
Aside form the lower temperature -- I assume from enriching the A/F mix -- do you notice any difference in performance?Got my cooler mounted up yesterday after work. The difference in temps between the inlet and outlet side was ~40°F. I measured the temp with my IR gun on the drain plug after a decent ride and got 185°F! No highway time yet, I was mostly checking for leaks and that the radiator wasn't moving around when I hit bumps in the road.