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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have an Amazon, Anodizing Racing exhaust on my 2019 Grom and last week I ordered a Dinger-Built Short Ram Intake and TB camshaft from https://www.cameronjonesracing.com/ and Cameron was good enough to send me the dyno chart for this combination of mods with his ECU flash. Stock hp was 8.08 and with the mods 11.16 which is a 38 percent increase for only $325 (not including the exhaust). I'm very happy with those numbers plus I don't have to mess around with wiring.


https://i.imgur.com/IQuk5uB.jpg
 

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That's impressive high end performance. :)
My Grom putts around at low rpms almost all the time, so a bog in the torque curve at 5,000 rpms wouldn't fit my riding style, however it's perfect for everyone who runs their engine at high rpms. Trading off some bottom end in order to gain lots of top end is a pretty good deal.
 

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You are worried about performance, but you bought an AR exhaust? That doesn't make sense to me.
I've never seen dyno results to know whether the AR exhaust is good or bad I just know that it sounds good and was affordable. In combination with the intake and cam it makes 38 percent more peak hp than stock so I'm a happy camper.
 

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I've never seen dyno results to know whether the AR exhaust is good or bad I just know that it sounds good and was affordable. In combination with the intake and cam it makes 38 percent more peak hp than stock so I'm a happy camper.
It's cheap because it's low quality and because there's zero performance R&D put into it. At least you're happy with it.
 

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Thanks for posting this! I've always been curious about the much maligned "cheaper" exhausts. I have one myself (it only cost $250 *eye roll*), and am glad to know it is working just fine.
 

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I've never seen dyno results to know whether the AR exhaust is good or bad I just know that it sounds good and was affordable. In combination with the intake and cam it makes 38 percent more peak hp than stock so I'm a happy camper.
I like your approach. REGARDLESS of the cost... ALL an engine responds to is the length and diameter of the head pipe. :)
 

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Muffler/baffle is huge for performance as wel :)

We lost 2hp in the low end and upper-mid range not running a muffler (just a header) vs running one during testing on our 125 build last year. Interesting part was peak hp stayed they same. I’ll see if I can dig up a graph
 

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Muffler/baffle is huge for performance as wel :)

We lost 2hp in the low end and upper-mid range not running a muffler (just a header) vs running one during testing on our 125 build last year. Interesting part was peak hp stayed they same. I’ll see if I can dig up a graph
Depending on the design, mufflers can add effective length to the head pipe which increases low rpm torque.
 

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Depending on the design, mufflers can add effective length to the head pipe which increases low rpm torque.
Length for sure. I was targeting moreso the harmonics playing a key role, the way the sound waves travel back and forth through the exhaust can change things up quite a bit. Would be curious to test say a yoshimura canister against an ebay $30 can. May have to add that to the to-do list
 

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I have the Amazon Anodizing Racing Exhaust also. Running the Cameron Jones Racing Stage 1 Version 2 Reflash, along with the airbox mod and BMC filter. I don’t have the TB cam.

The bike runs fantastic. I imagine with the cam it would be quite a bit faster on top end.

Regarding the Anodizing Racing Exhaust, I am super impressed with the quality. It was $88.00, but they had a $5.00 coupon, so I got it for $83.00. Recently, I saw it for $87.00, with the $5.00 coupon, making $82.00.

The welds look flawless. Like the welds on a titanium bicycle. It sounds amazing. I have zero complaints regarding fit and finish.

I watched a YouTube video of someone taking an Anodizing Racing Silencer apart. If I remember correctly, it was for a different bike, not a Grom. Then I watched someone take a Yoshimura Silencer apart. In my non-expert opinion, there was very little difference in the construction.

I tend to agree with Tooter about pipe length and pipe diameter, being a huge part of the equation. I’m not sure how the Anodizing Racing Exhaust performs compared to the higher priced exhausts, but I’m happy with it. I’m sure the Yoshimura is superior, but I’m not sure if it is $500 to $600 dollars better, for someone like me.

I’m not saying I would never own a Yoshimura, but for now the Anodizing Racing Exhaust is good enough.

I am running both parts of the two-piece dB killer. I should experiment with removing them to see if it performs even better.
 

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I tend to agree with Tooter about pipe length and pipe diameter, being a huge part of the equation. I’m not sure how the Anodizing Racing Exhaust performs compared to the higher priced exhausts, but I’m happy with it. I’m sure the Yoshimura is superior, but I’m not sure if it is $500 to $600 dollars better, for someone like me.

I’m not saying I would never own a Yoshimura, but for now the Anodizing Racing Exhaust is good enough.

I am running both parts of the two-piece dB killer. I should experiment with removing them to see if it performs even better.
Generally long head pipe exhausts and loop exhausts allow the engine to produce more low rpm torque, while shorter head pipes help high rpm performance. With the stock cam there's nothing over 7,000 rpms so I don't need any high rpm help. I run a modified DingerBuilt extra long intake

MR3KzGU.jpg

...along with an extra long TOCE exhaust...

6jSOIq0.jpg

...and the engine can run as low as 28 mph in 4th gear and accelerate without lugging. Low rpm torque is how you can get really good gas mileage! :)

Here's a video of the Anodizing exhaust with and without the DB killer. He briefly shows the insert at 1:10.


Most DB killers are similar in that they make the exit smaller while adding a perforated tube extending into the muffler. This interferes with the sound waves and causes them to reflect inside the muffler making the engine quieter.















and a long head pipe exhaust.
 

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