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Discussion Starter #221
Looks great. I read once, and I don’t know if it’s true, but someone said that a textured surface was better than polished, because it allowed the fuel to evaporate off of the walls faster. I don’t know, could be true. Maybe. Get the sandpaper out...lol!

You always hear of people polishing things though.
Polish to increase incoming velocity have seen plenty of TBs this way...

Is this what you meant:
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Looks great. I read once, and I don’t know if it’s true, but someone said that a textured surface was better than polished, because it allowed the fuel to evaporate off of the walls faster. I don’t know, could be true. Maybe. Get the sandpaper out...lol!

You always hear of people polishing things though.
A rougher surface helps with fuel atomization. The injector is further down the line, so there's nothing to atomize yet. Polishing once fuel is added is a thing of the past. I don't honestly know if it'll make much of a difference at the TB, but it sure is pretty.
 
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A rougher surface helps with fuel atomization. The injector is further down the line, so there's nothing to atomize yet. Polishing once fuel is added is a thing of the past. I don't honestly know if it'll make much of a difference at the TB, but it sure is pretty.
Ok. Yes. That all makes sense. Haha. I didn’t even think about the fuel not even being injected yet, even though I know the injector is at the intake manifold. Thanks!
Polish to increase incoming velocity have seen plenty of TBs this way...

Is this what you meant:
View attachment 88246
Yep. I think that is basically what I read.

I probably posted that at 2:00am. Let’s hope anyway...
 
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@dubSolo how did you make it through the storm? Hope everyone and everything is okay!
 

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Not too bad on the wind, I live in a hole. Lots of rain though, they are monitoring a bridge between my house and work on a major highway, they may have to close it. Glad you are alright, if I can help, just let me know.
 
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Discussion Starter #228 (Edited)
Update on 170 Build:

After some discussion with Cameron and David about valve size set up, I am going with the Kitaco Neo 181 head...

Thanks Hard racing 💪

GFz is willing to exchange his standard size HD studs, for the longer ones that fit neo head...
Going to pair with his 303 stainless head bolts as well...

Have a feeling upgraded crank will eventually be needed...
 

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Update on 170 Build:

After some discussion with Cameron and David about valve size set up, I am going with the Kitaco Neo 181 head...

Thanks Hard racing 💪

GFz is willing to exchange his standard size HD studs, for the longer ones that fit neo head...
Going to pair with his 303 stainless head bolts as well...

Have a feeling upgraded crank will eventually be needed...
Do you wish you would have just done a complete Neo Kit?
 

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Neo head is 2V right? Why not a 4V head?

I have to go back and read this thread in detail. Once we get settled into a new house, I’m considering a second Grom or a Monkey. One will stay mostly stock and reliable. The other will get a BBK. I kinda wish the 164cc kits were still available, but I guess 170 is close enough. But if I go 170 I figure why not go all the way to 181? I thought about 143 Takegawa kit, but that’s only 19cc extra displacement.
 

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Neo head is 2V right? Why not a 4V head?

I have to go back and read this thread in detail. Once we get settled into a new house, I’m considering a second Grom or a Monkey. One will stay mostly stock and reliable. The other will get a BBK. I kinda wish the 164cc kits were still available, but I guess 170 is close enough. But if I go 170 I figure why not go all the way to 181? I thought about 143 Takegawa kit, but that’s only 19cc extra displacement.
Neo is 2V. From what Dub and I have discussed the 4v is expensive, hard to find parts for, and more stressful on the timing chain (less reliable). This was discussed as he mentioned ordering unobtanium valves for a neo head. 170 might not push the crank as much with high torque, still revs higher than the 18X+ kits. This all could change if a forged crank is in the future.

DHM makes a 150 kit and txb... on here is selling one. I opted for the 143 because it was about as much as a DHM 125 piston and TB cam. 143 will add some torque while not stressing the crank too much, still rev, not get too hot, and the cam has a larger base circle to help with valve train wear. Both the 143 and DHM piston are cast and both up the compression (DHM by a bit more).
 

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Discussion Starter #232
Do you wish you would have just done a complete Neo Kit?
Not really,,, I feel what ever the 181 is capable of the 170 is as well but hoping with more reliability and longevity. IF I upgrade crank,,, will stay 170 unless some one produces a big valve set more reliable than the finbro 31/26 set-up, I've been told those are known to snap. Cameron, David and Estallings15 all have stressed the importance of proper valve sizing for bbk when achieving power in higher rpms. If the valve size of the neo head is sufficient for 181piston hoping it might pair even better with a 170...

Neo head is 2V right? Why not a 4V head?
Yes 2V...
Like Justin V mentions cost, hard to get replacement parts for the head and would have to upgrade crank for sure, which adds more to cost lol.

Neo is 2V. From what Dub and I have discussed the 4v is expensive, hard to find parts for, and more stressful on the timing chain (less reliable). This was discussed as he mentioned ordering unobtanium valves for a neo head.
Was able to find neo valve set on webike and I believe ebay... David is uncertain that valve set will work in stock head but also mentioned neo has much better intake geometry. So decided to go with just the head with the intention of port work.
 

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Neo is 2V. From what Dub and I have discussed the 4v is expensive, hard to find parts for, and more stressful on the timing chain (less reliable). This was discussed as he mentioned ordering unobtanium valves for a neo head. 170 might not push the crank as much with high torque, still revs higher than the 18X+ kits. This all could change if a forged crank is in the future.

DHM makes a 150 kit and txb... on here is selling one. I opted for the 143 because it was about as much as a DHM 125 piston and TB cam. 143 will add some torque while not stressing the crank too much, still rev, not get too hot, and the cam has a larger base circle to help with valve train wear. Both the 143 and DHM piston are cast and both up the compression (DHM by a bit more).
DHM makes a 150cc kit? I can't find it on their site.


Yes 2V...
Like Justin V mentions cost, hard to get replacement parts for the head and would have to upgrade crank for sure, which adds more to cost lol.
That makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #235
Slow on bbk progress, but did test fit DHM custom high mount header for OG on my SF...

Hindle high mount 3weeks out, once decided will have one of them up for sale.

Complete exhaust set-up...

High mount header: DHMs comes w/27mm copper gasket - Hindle w/GFz billet gasket.

Universal 51mm slip on: will have two to choose from, both are stainless steel with mount hardware.

Tyga high mount bracket.

If I part with DHM header? Will have available 304 stainless steel O2 bung and plug if one were to decide to relocate O2 sensor placement

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Let us know if you have any loud ticking with the Neo head like these guys are having:

I’m just curious. Still not sure where I will go from here with my mods. It’s down to a high compression 125 with ported larger valve head or some sort of 2-valve BBK setup. If I do a BBK, I will likely upgrade the crank and install a Takegawa 5-speed while I’m in there.

So that is a Koso 170 cylinder and piston you will be running? Do you think a DHM ported head with 27/23 valves would pair pretty well with a 170 like that? I’m thinking maybe a ported stock head will play nicer with my modified stock airbox setup, according to that link above. A 170 might be a good size for reliability. I’m just looking at all options.
 

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@Upgrayedd If we ever end up near each other, you are welcome to try out my hi-comp 125 and see if it fits you.
 

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@Upgrayedd If we ever end up near each other, you are welcome to try out my hi-comp 125 and see if it fits you.
Yeah, fantastic! Maybe Barber Small Bore won’t get cancelled for 2021. That would be a cool place to meet up. That or maybe if you come to the mountains one day.

I’ve got a while to decide which route to go. I’ve had to dial back my Grom spending for now. Got a much bigger project I’m funneling my money into. It might be next fall/winter before I make any major upgrades. We’ll see. The bike is still super fun the way it is. All of the upgrades I’ve already made are great.
 

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Wait till you go up to a 36T in the rear....... so much fun.
 
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Wait till you go up to a 36T in the rear....... so much fun.
I kind of thought I was happy with the stock gearing, but you are the one that pointed out the benefits of re-gearing the bike, since it won’t get anywhere near hitting the rev limiter in 4th gear (unless I’m on a huge downhill). I think it is going to be great.

I might need to get a longer chain. Maybe a Renthal R1 like dubSolo uses. I’m not sure if there is enough adjustment or not on the G-Craft swingarm for my 36t sprocket to work with the stock chain.
 
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