OK Dumb question time.. I am thinking that the advantages of these longer swing arms are to enable higher speed stability? Any positive off road advantages?
Couple things I have that someone else can put to use???
Other than the DynoJet Set-up
I haven't really thought about price for anything else...
If you want or need it, shoot me an offer for whatever's it worth to you also keep in mind shipping. Most will fit in $8.00 USPS one way box.
NOT LOOKING TO PROFIT...
Just want get rid of it instead of collecting or throwing away.
Hey dubSolo, I am at the point of installing my Kepspeed swingarm. I was curious if you could provide an update about the chain slider situation?
I really like the swingarm, but the chain slider seems somewhat marginal. When I look at my stock slider, I can see where the chain makes quite a bit of contact with it on the top and bottom. With that said, the stock slider also hangs off the inside of the swing arm following the chain line, but with the Kepspeed the chain largely clears the swingarm altogether.
Have you noticed any chain contact on the swingarm, top or bottom? I don’t want to beat up/chew up the swingarm unnecessarily.
I’m tempted to install the stock Honda slider, but it would be nice to not have to mess with it, if possible.
Using the stock slider was my initial idea but didn't want to manipulate kepspeed swingarm by drilling holes in it to use.
With that said If you figure an alternative Do It and Keep Me in the loop.
15tooth front sprocket Regardless of how loose or tight the chain this is going to happen. 16tooth makes less contact but still slaps and occasionally rides the slider.
After it chews through slider it's definitely going to slap and or ride the swingarm.
So definitely need a permanent solve without having to order a replacement slider from kepspeed.
Thanks for the quick response. You are awesome. That is exactly what I needed to know and see.
I think I’m going to look into mounting the stock slider and just be done with it. I considered having a local welder fill in the holes left behind from the Kepspeed slider. Since I have the polished aluminum version, I think I could polish up the filled in areas. My reasons would be to keep water and debris from infiltrating, but mostly for aesthetics. It may take me a little longer before I get the swing arm mounted, but I think it will be worth it.
I really like this swingarm, but they should have provided a better chain slider.
I made a small aluminum bracket for the brake side of the swingarm to provide a tab that the fender hugger fits over. The hole that Kepspeed drills is too far forward for the front L-bracket to fit into the fender hugger slot. I think they are all drilled that way.
I just noticed that your Kepspeed chain slider is screwed on. Mine is riveted on, which I think is stupid. Rivets make it more difficult to replace the slider, but I doubt you can get a replacement slider anyway.
Did you change yours from rivets to screws? If so, are the holes pretty small?
I’m wondering how easy it would be for a welder to fill them in.
Oh wow, so did you test fit the stock slider to see how well it fits on the Kepspeed swingarm? If so, does it lay in place pretty well?
Best I can tell, the Kepspeed is a larger diameter at the round pivot section (where the needle bearings are). About 3.5 centimeters. The stock swingarm appears to be about 3 centimeters. That’s with me measuring while the stock swing arm is still on the bike, so it is hard to see for sure. I’m wondering how well the stock slider will wrap around the pivot part.
I’m not terribly worried about drilling a few new holes in the Kepspeed swingarm. The brake side has three holes drilled in it. If the swing arm fails, I doubt it would be the arm. More likely a weld would fail, I would think.
Yes, I will post whatever I do over in the Kepspeed thread. That way it will be the definitive thread for these swingarms. I will also post photos of my fender hugger mounting tab I made.
Thanks buddy, for all of the photos. That is super helpful.
The screw holes don’t bother me. It’s those larger holes for the rubber plug part of the slider, that would concern me. Those are fairly large.
One thing to remember is the Kepspeed arms are not one big hollow chamber I don’t believe. It has two cross sectional pieces inside the boxed arm. I’m sure it could handle some small holes, but the larger ones, I’m not sure. What is unfortunate, is all of the holes top and bottom, for the stock slider are directly above and below each other, so all of the added weakness from drilling is concentrated on that one vertical line.
I’ve also been looking at Webike for chain sliders, trying to find something that might work.
unfortunate is all of the holes top and bottom, for the stock slider are directly above and below each other, so all of the added weakness from drilling is concentrated on that one vertical line.
Interestingly, Takegawa has those large holes drilled in their swingarm for the Grom. I’m tempted to drill them as small as possible and force those rubber plugs in there.
In post #26, of this thread, noob claims to have installed the stock slider. I wonder how it is working out? I imagine it is just fine. I feel better seeing that Takegawa is doing it too. I doubt we are going to find a better solution than the stock slider.
I think I’m going to order a new Honda slider for the Kepspeed and see how well I can fit it. The slider that Kepspeed provides is not really of the quality I would prefer. I would have paid $20 extra for the swingarm, in a heartbeat, if they would have used a better chain slider.
Damn I’ll be curious to hear your thoughts on that shifter. I had their shifter on my WR250r and loved it. Been on the fence for the grom since I hear mixed reviews on solid mount shifters.
Hammerhead from Mnnthbx not sure which model there wasn't any options when ordering unless I missed it.
From what I've read though you can get the tip in assorted sizes and colors.
How do you like this shifter? Does it seem to shift fine? Some people report good luck and some report bad when moving to direct shifter and getting rid of the linkage.... But the linkage is a PITA as far as I'm concerned.
So I'm never gonna bump my rev limiter pas 9600. I take it this cam rides great till then? I really want a good overall cam and not a top end only screamer. Really want one of these, was hoping the Koso was similar, but you made it sound like it was weak sauce compared to the ST-M1
How have those ridden for you so far? Did they throw your speedo off?
One last question, your Trail Tech gauge, so it's a cylinder temp ( I assume spark plug washer/ring ) what temps does it read and where do you feel is the danger zone for that... Currently trying to find a solution because I don't want to ride around with my phone on my bars all the time to see what my Aracer is reporting...
Out comes the Yosh1 back in goes the Dcr2Pro... God I missed this Cam.
Anybody interested in a Yosh1 cam hit me up, it's a little beast.
GFz cam chain tensioner installed a HD studs on stand by
There's this order I've always kept of members I've grown to communicate with for advice since membership.
I consider them Grom Gurus...
estallings was the last Guru added to this list. I always joke with him on how his stock is rising (this guy is awesome). Recently my No.1 is no longer part of the grom scene.
So just to fuck with estallings I made M.S.A.
On the cam I wanted to experiment with how much bottom end I would gain with the least amount of top end loss. Happen to come across Koso and Yosh1 cam fairly cheap on FB a day apart.
Gave the Koso a few days... To me did not seem to much better than stock cam just stronger. Valve clearance is even the same as stock.
Compared to DCR at 9rpm can smash the throttle and DCR will pull every bit of 11/12rpm no problem...
Koso smash that at 9rpm it struggles to quickly get up to 10+rpm.
Yosh1 ran for idk 2 months maybe... That made the Grom a beast all the way to 10+rpm improvement everywhere can maintain steam. But to much of a hit on my top speed
There's this order I've always kept of members I've grown to communicate with for advice since membership.
I consider them Grom Gurus...
Yosh1 ran for idk 2 months maybe... That made the Grom a beast all the way to 10+rpm improvement everywhere can maintain steam. But to much of a hit on my top speed
I see. Nice. Well, I’ll probably never make the list, but maybe I could get a participation trophy, since you and I communicate sometimes? lol.
That DCR2 Pro sounds like a beast. It would be cool if someone had tried both the DCR2 Pro and the Yoshimura ST-2M. I would love to know how those stack up. I’m always curious if the Yosh gives up much to the DCR.
I reread the thread trying to find some info on your setup, would you mind posting your power mods? Or at the very least, piston, head, throttle body and gearing? Or everything would be great.
Dhm: piston, race head, intake with Dcr2 cam on ported stock tb and hindle exhaust
GFz: header gasket, cam cover, cam chain tensioner and speed spacers with HD studs ready for bbk
aRacer: full mini5 tuner set-up (Sweet spot for timing and afr is Key)
Takegawa: ignition coil, cam chain arm, oil pump and fourth bearing support
JC Racing: lighten flywheel and oil spinner
SMR 6plate and 60% springs
And a few simple weight reductions here and there...
I see. Nice. Well, I’ll probably never make the list, but maybe I could get a participation trophy, since you and I communicate sometimes? lol.
That DCR2 Pro sounds like a beast. It would be cool if someone had tried both the DCR2 Pro and the Yoshimura ST-2M. I would love to know how those stack up. I’m always curious if the Yosh gives up much to the DCR.
The original DCR cam worked on the BrianS 170 BBK kit back in 2014-15 time frame and it even worked better on the Finbro 183-2v BBK kit which is no longer sold by HR.
the other setup I did with this cam installed was also using the duel valve spring setup.
With all the pass experience I had with 2V kits I bet I can make the 170-181-2V engine scream with my DIY porting and tricks I learned on my 4v engines.
With all the pass experience I had with 2V kits I bet I can make the 170-181-2V engine scream with my DIY porting and tricks I learned on my 4v engines.
Hoping to build a reliable little powerhouse, no doubt all the port work will help. Just got Koso tb sending that out to be ported and still have to get that damn brass screw lol.
Do you or David feel the stock throttle body is holding you back any? What is your top speed? Sorry for all the questions, seriously considering a hi-comp piston and ported head.
Why don’t they just include that stupid freakin’ screw? I can’t tell you how many threads I’ve read, where someone’s bike was running like total crap. They’ve tried everything they can think of to make the bike run correctly, then someone’s asks if they installed the brass screw! Totally unnecessary. Just include the screw with the throttle body!
Since it looks like it’s open season to hammer dubSolo with questions...haha, is David porting the Koso throttle body too?
I would like to have my stock throttle body taper bored. I’ve seen some that don’t look like someone took a dremel to them. They look like they have been machined. Is someone able to machine them somehow, like on a lathe?
Why 2 valve instead of 4 valve? Probably because you already have that nice head. I’m a 2 valve fan
We can talk about whatever we like in this thread, because it says, “and other shit...”
Would definitley be nice, charge an extra $15 to include as a kit with tb.
Sending to Guru No.3 lol, Have an experiment he wants to give a go pertaining to Koso manifold and spacer.
Gromfatherz is the only one that I know of that uses machine method. Dhm, Cjr, Jc Racing and Staightup pumps all offer TB porting... Check out Straight up pumps though for the price and he adds countersunk screws to butterfly its a good deal.
Only for 2013-2020 Groms(OG & SF)/MSX/Monkeys Velocity ported and counter sunk OEM throttle body provides the best flow possible! Notice there are no screw heads blocking air flow or creating turbulence that robs your motors power! No one else currently offers this complete of a throttle body...
straightuppumps.com
Correct since I already have the head, was on Davids suggestion to go Koso 170 he said they would pair great together. Will be sending him the koso piston to make valve reliefs bigger for valve clearance, if they dont already clear David doesnt think it will be an issue... but have back up plan just in case. Sticking with 2V because I dont want to have to split the case and trying to avoid crank failure... Was told the 170 kit can be a monster if I get up towards 18 to 22 hp may have crank problems regardless... At that point would be proud to upgrade crank
Thats right can discuss whateverTF we want in my thread which falls under the "and other shit" lol
Yep port matching is another Grom secret, matching the I/D of the intake tube and also the exhaust pipe to the head.
Another trick is to port/polish the intake tube OEM or Koso or what every and take the throttle body and polish the under side where the butterfly valve is and also polish the butterfly valve.
Biggest cheapest gain is the 4th bearing support with the Koso cam chain arm and sprocket gear and using GFZ adjustable cam chain unit or who ever designs the adjustable cam chain unit.
Just so you know CJR has a great deal on the Koso TB and manifold.... you should check it out.
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