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Discussion Starter #1
Driven Racing D-Axis Rearsets are CNC-machined from Solid Billet Aluminum.
Making them Lighter and Stronger than other brands.

- High grade hardware Adjustable folding toepegs
- Standard/reverse shift patterns
- 4 different mounting positions up to 18mm up and 18mm back from new "0" positon
- New Lightweight TT design
- Made in U.S.A.

To watch our HardRacing YouTube Install Video, click on the link.




gromdriven1.jpg

For more information & pricing, please click the link below

>> Driven Racing D-Axis Rearsets <<



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Hi guys, need help. My left side rear sets don't fit. And the little cap screw for the shifter linkage is too short. No nut in the seal package either.


shift rod hits the engine fairing
shifter hits the kickstand
rear set hits the fender back by the foot peg holes

thanks for your help,

steve

Okay, edit mode... New pics. How in Hell can the shift rod pass through the kickstand???
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hi guys, need help. My left side rear sets don't fit. And the little cap screw for the shifter linkage is too short. No nut in the seal package either.


shift rod hits the engine fairing
shifter hits the kickstand
rear set hits the fender back by the foot peg holes

thanks for your help,

steve
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Looks like you switched it to setup for GP Shift, instead of Standard.


Also You have the rod ends screwed into much.

Back out the rod more to increase the length.

Also... Put the Shift Linkeage ARM so it looks just like this photo. Straight up and down.










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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
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It may help to watch the Video again.

Skip forward to 4:50 time

Remember, Cari prefers GP Shift.......... so that's how she has it in the Video.

But, from DRIVEN , it comes setup for STANDARD Shift .





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Discussion Starter #8

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Yes, almost... I couldn't see where the shift rod had to pass between the kickstand mount and elec connector. Only tiny problem now is the kit didn't come with a 10mm bolt and nut to attach the shift arm to the shift rod. No nut included, only the short screw.

steve
 

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Really! REALLY!! How the heck does one get the brake cylinder on this deally-o when the pin is longer than the space between the parts?
I watched the movie, several times. She say's to put in in under there before sliding the brake cylinder on. I say, uh-uh, no go. And, I can't loosen the bolt of the pivot point! AHHHHHHHHHHH!

Rip the head off? File it down till the cotter pin hole has .00001 edge margin?

steve
 

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I tried, first thing. The brake lever don't come off. Or do I just need to turn more? I put an allen wrench on it and it turned really hard, never getting looser. Like when you turn a bolt a few turns, it gets hot and breaks off. Didn't want to go there. I'll keep turning, but that's a whole lotta friction....

steve
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I tried, first thing. The brake lever don't come off. Or do I just need to turn more? I put an allen wrench on it and it turned really hard, never getting looser. Like when you turn a bolt a few turns, it gets hot and breaks off. Didn't want to go there. I'll keep turning, but that's a whole lotta friction....

steve
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Make sure you BLUE Loctite, ANY Bolt you remove that was already assembled.
And of course, any bolts you install.

That's why it's not coming off.

If the bolts are not loctited.. it will eventually loosen from Vibration.

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Put the rear set on your bike once it's bolted to the bike grab the lever and pull the lever towards you a way from the bike turn the Allen wrench at the same time when you pull on the lever towards you it puts pressure on the backing it won't spin as easy and the bolt should come out of the backing I used a 3/8 impact driver with a Allen wrench head on it takes it right off
 

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Take the brake lever off put the pen and put the brake lever back on
Sounds good on paper, Sal, but the nut is pressed into the crank cavity and it's a weird friction fit. The nut turns in the crank cavity when the bolt is wrenched. Ain't no way to hold it and keep it from turning. Especially if I had to tighten the crank bolt after the brake cylinder clevis is installed.

steve

PS Sal, thanks for the PM. I've tried to answer several times but for some reason it don't go through.
 

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I only know because I have the same set on my bike and had to do the same thing do you have a little impact that you can hit it with why you're doing what I was telling you by holding the lever
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sounds good on paper, Sal, but the nut is pressed into the crank cavity and it's a weird friction fit. The nut turns in the crank cavity when the bolt is wrenched. Ain't no way to hold it and keep it from turning. Especially if I had to tighten the crank bolt after the brake cylinder clevis is installed.

steve

PS Sal, thanks for the PM. I've tried to answer several times but for some reason it don't go through.
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Holy crap, it shouldn't be this hard.
It's like you have some freaky long pin rod. ;-)

We called Driven to find out WTF........... they confirmed........... you have to use Impact gun to remove the Pivot Bolt... because as you stated, the nut spins on the back side.
It does help to put a little resistance on the nut, with your thumb or rubber stopper... something to reduces its tendency to spin.


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