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The over pipe actually gives a reasonable clearance to the oil filler line and also the oil cooler lines.

For your throttle body, use a 34mm unless you are going to get it ported. A 34 is enough for a 5 axis or standard takegawa head. The 37 I have is overkill unless you are getting it ported.

The 15d cam is not much different to the 10d cam. Peak lift and duration is about the same, with the profile and lobe seperation being slightly different. If you really want a top performer, either send your 10d cam to Web Camshafts ($$$$) or send your 15d to DCR ($$). Both these companies have produced upgraded cams for both the takegawa and koso 4v heads. If you decide on the DCR, tell Dan to give you the same grind as Aaron.

I'd be very skeptical of the 27hp claims, since the 5 axis still has an anaemic exhaust port.
The Takegawa chart with the 27PS is on their latest Monkey brochures.

Yet, in the same box they include Grom parts brochures that show 23PS.

What I can say is their chart has been accurate so far regarding the power output on my 2V 181. If anything they are slightly under representing their numbers.

Hoping for the big gains.

Looking at their 10/10D versus 15/15D it does show much more high end capability with the 15D cam. It shows stable top end power all the way to 12.5k rpm.

The 10D tapering off slightly earlier and having a peak at high end versus the plateau of power in the 15D cam.

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The 27PS chart I haven't seen online.

Maybe it is for their complete engine that has the dry clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
What's going on with the build?
Haven't had a chance to post. It's fully rebuilt with the ported head and 5 speed. I've also added a Healtech quickshifter and an Opmid dash. All I can say is that it absolutely rips. Its faster than a 12" minibike deserves. Since putting it back together, I've also cut out the welded in baffle in the Over racing exhaust. GF did some dyno testing which showed that the Over baffle is very restrictive.

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I've also done a full engine build for a friend, where we did a neo with a much bigger cam (+13% lift, +30% duration over standard neo cam). That turned out to be a very fun 2v setup.
 

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Haven't had a chance to post. It's fully rebuilt with the ported head and 5 speed. I've also added a Healtech quickshifter and an Opmid dash. All I can say is that it absolutely rips. Its faster than a 12" minibike deserves. Since putting it back together, I've also cut out the welded in baffle in the Over racing exhaust. GF did some dyno testing which showed that the Over baffle is very restrictive.

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I've also done a full engine build for a friend, where we did a neo with a much bigger cam (+13% lift, +30% duration over standard neo cam). That turned out to be a very fun 2v setup.
Nice.

What are the dyno numbers?

Also, how do you compare the Neo to your build?

I'll have most of the parts to build my 4 valve 5 axis ported Takegawa setup with 5 speed in a couple of days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
No dyno numbers just yet.

My bike will leave the neo behind but I think the neo+bigger cam compares pretty well with a straight out of the box non-ported takegawa 4v (10d cam).

Now that I've done a neo build, I have a rough idea how the cranks compare. The takegawa crank is definitely heavier than the kitaco.

The other plus with the neo is that an upgraded auto-tensioner will do the job, even with a more aggressive cam. The 4v realistically needs a manual tensioner, even on the standard cam

For your build, what ecu are you using? My ignition timing is very different to stock to make it work well

Sent from my Atom_XL using Tapatalk
 

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No dyno numbers just yet.

My bike will leave the neo behind but I think the neo+bigger cam compares pretty well with a straight out of the box non-ported takegawa 4v (10d cam).

Now that I've done a neo build, I have a rough idea how the cranks compare. The takegawa crank is definitely heavier than the kitaco.

The other plus with the neo is that an upgraded auto-tensioner will do the job, even with a more aggressive cam. The 4v realistically needs a manual tensioner, even on the standard cam

For your build, what ecu are you using? My ignition timing is very different to stock to make it work well

Sent from my Atom_XL using Tapatalk
I've got the DynoJet Power Vision 3 and DynoJet themselves (they are headquartered in my town) dyno tuning the bike.

Tell me more about switching to a manual tensioner. Were you getting chain slap?

So far I've found Takegawa to be very well engineered and other than their upgraded tensioner I have not seen an upgrade from them for this application. Not even their longblocks have a manual tensioner.
 

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I just found this on a Takegawa page and was unaware.

"Be sure to use genuine with moderate damper effect and our company push rod head.
Cam chain tensioner push rod head 00-01-0279

Because reinforced push rod heads sold by other manufacturers cause a large load on the cam chain and cause engine trouble, please do not install at the same time."

I'll order one for my build. I'm currently using an upgraded delrin button.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I've got the DynoJet Power Vision 3 and DynoJet themselves (they are headquartered in my town) dyno tuning the bike.

Tell me more about switching to a manual tensioner. Were you getting chain slap?
I'm using a yuminashi manual tensioner, with their rod and brass button. With the spring tensioner, I was getting chain slap at high rpm. My limiter is at 11.5k (Highest possible with pv3)

If the dynojet maps premade maps are anything to go by, don't expect much from them. I can PM you my ignition timing tables for the takegawa 4v. They will look pretty radical, but I've been using them for 2500km's and they aren't much different to what GSX runs on his takegawa grom.
 

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I'm using a yuminashi manual tensioner, with their rod and brass button. With the spring tensioner, I was getting chain slap at high rpm. My limiter is at 11.5k (Highest possible with pv3)

If the dynojet maps premade maps are anything to go by, don't expect much from them. I can PM you my ignition timing tables for the takegawa 4v. They will look pretty radical, but I've been using them for 2500km's and they aren't much different to what GSX runs on his takegawa grom.
Definitely PM me what you can. What is the engine revving to now?
 

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I'm using a yuminashi manual tensioner, with their rod and brass button. With the spring tensioner, I was getting chain slap at high rpm. My limiter is at 11.5k (Highest possible with pv3)

If the dynojet maps premade maps are anything to go by, don't expect much from them. I can PM you my ignition timing tables for the takegawa 4v. They will look pretty radical, but I've been using them for 2500km's and they aren't much different to what GSX runs on his takegawa grom.
Will be interesting see your ignition timing tables .
 

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What a great way to spend the day!
 
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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Been a while since I've posted. The bikes running well and almost up to 10000km (3500km as a 4v). I got one of the new Kitaco 6 disk clutches and a lightened flywheel that I have just installed. I've only been able to get 1 ride in on these new bits, since Sydney is back into lockdown.

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The kitaco 6 was a little disappointing. It seems to hold the power fine, but the lever travel is huge compared to my old 6 bolt setup. Next service, I'll try and mix and match parts with my old setup to use the 6 discs, with the 6 bolts, which should give me more bite in the clutch like I'm used to.

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The endurance lightweight flywheel is a nice addition too. The overall weight of Takegawa crank + Endurance flywheel is not much different to Kitaco crank + Stock flywheel, but it does mean that theres less weight trying to break the flywheel woodruff key.

Realistically, my motor is finished. From here on out I'll only be doing some minor tweaks to the clutch and maintenance. There's only a few more bits that I would want for this build like an alloy swingarm and forged rims. I did manage to score a z50a frame and motor on the cheap, so that will be my next project.
90578
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Just finished my custom tungsten front wheel spacers and I'm very happy with how they turned out. For comparison, the front oem spacers are 70g each, aftermarket aluminium spacers are about 24g each.......mine are 150g each. It doesn't sound like much, but any advantage helps on such a short wheelbase. The other bonus is that these are very free spinning. I'm running factory torque settings, factory dust seals and full steel bearings (no ceramics yet) and it just wants to keep spinning.


Textile Household hardware Rectangle Pattern Cylinder


 

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Very nice looking rims!

@mongerrr I noticed that you run the Takegawa crank. I in the process of installing that myself. Did you noticed that there is no oil hole in the small end that goes through and through, just like the oem and Kitaco one. It just has a little hole that connects to nothing. How does the pin gets its oil? Any thoughts on that?
 

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Very nice looking rims!

@mongerrr I noticed that you run the Takegawa crank. I in the process of installing that myself. Did you noticed that there is no oil hole in the small end that goes through and through, just like the oem and Kitaco one. It just has a little hole that connects to nothing. How does the pin gets its oil? Any thoughts on that?
Look at the crank diagram in the kit. It shows oil routing.
 

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I think I didn’t explained myself right. I ment the part were the piston pin goes through the crank. But I’ll have another look tomorrow. As far as I could see there is no connection with the oil route.
 
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